The Coleman Thread (11 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Copper plated Crossman BBs are also known to work well for fuel tank clean up. These, being smaller in diameter and less pointy will tend to get into the corners and nooks and crannies a little better. If the sediment and rust is bad, the bolts and nuts will work faster.

Keep in mind that Coleman used an internal swish solution at the factory for rust prevention, which can sometimes look like surface rust, given its pinkish hue. More than one person has gone through the effort to remove this factory rust preventative film thinking it was the start of something bad. Here's a pic of the surface finish in a lantern, but you get the idea. Pretty sure they used this on stove tanks, too.
Screenshot_20201208-203354.jpg
 
Appreciate all the help! Vinegar plus some small nuts, screws, and chain did the trick. Was definitely from the fuel used and stored. Blasted it with air yesterday to dry it out and today will work on cleaning the gunk off the outside. Ordered a new filler cap gasket though the current one is holding pressure it has seen better days. I’ve seen mention of graphite ribbon, where exactly would I be outright this on…?
 
I posted a few days ago about finding bags that fit our coleman stoves. Found this one and it's a pretty good fit with a mesh pocket for a quart of coleman fuel.
 
I posted a few days ago about finding bags that fit our coleman stoves. Found this one and it's a pretty good fit with a mesh pocket for a quart of coleman fuel.
What size Coleman stove did you put in the bag? I assume it is a basic 2 burner size like the 425.
 
What size Coleman stove did you put in the bag? I assume it is a basic 2 burner size like the 425.
that's correct almost all 425 two burner white gas models will fit with some room to spare actually for a griddle in case etc.
 
Yup. First thing that fails us usually the leather cup on the pump. Sometimes it's just dried out and you can "save" it with some oil. I found new cups local but I'm sure they're easy to buy online. The other critical seal is the cap. Simple o-ring I think? Don't have one in front of me.
Butt
If you have air leaking out of the pump assy, the internal check valve is leaking-
-(you have to unscrew the pump handle a couple of turns to get it off the seat of the check valve, and hold your finger{thumb} over the small hole in the pump handle when you push air in)--should take ~ 20 pumps to get enough pressure in the fount(tank), then close off the pump handle by turning clockwise(this locks the the check valve outer seat so no air can come back out of the valve if it is leaking---the internal design of the pump assy is such that the air delivery tube that allows air to be pumped in is always ABOVE the fuel level--even when full, so fuel can't blow back out of a leaking check valve--only air. Some older Thermos lamps did not have this safety feature--they pumped air into the tank under the fuel level, so if the check valve leaked, it would blow fuel back out the pump chamber, likely turning the lamp into a large fireball
 
The way I clean the tank: pour a bit if vinegar (can even use white gas) in the tank, drop in some appropriate sized nuts/bolts, shake & drain…repeat if necessary.

If the tank is really bad I have used acetone instead of vinegar.
Berryman's Carb parts cleaner works wonders--if you leave the fuel pickup tube in place, it will help clean the bottom of that as well.(I use BBs in the tank to shake around every so often to loosen stubborn rust/gunk). After that treatment for several hours, drain and rinse at least twice w/water. If the stuff that came our is really nasty, i would take the fuel tube out and clean that separately--do not try to use a wrench on the fuel pickup tube nut--instead, flip the tank upside down and clamp the tube nut in a vice and carefully use your hands to work the pickup tube loose by turning the tank back and forth. (Sometimes folks have done this in the past and they put locktight on the threads when they re-assemble(which is not needed)---If that is the case in your lantern or stove tank, and the tube won't budge with this method, you can use a little heat to carbonize the locktight--just be very careful not to overheat the tube nut to tank fitting(it is only soldered in place)
 
Stove refurbish


Coleman gas lantern refurbish


Sure, be glad to. Whatever I have learned started with these 2 guys. One for white gas Stoves & one for white gas Lanterns. A bunch of videos out there but these 2 guys are very good, to the point w/o a bunch of nonsense.

Especially the Lantern guy, he tells you what chemicals to use…vinegar, Napa Jelly for rust etc etc. Not positive but I believe this guy at one time owned Old Coleman Parts. A extremely good supplier of Coleman parts needed for some rebuilds.

You can’t really screw these stove or lanterns up…at least not beyond repair when you figure what you screwed up. Pretty simple & pretty basic. Almost like working on a LandCruiser…if you can follow the instructions on a good YouTube, you can accomplish almost any task.

Good luck & if you ever have a specific question I can assist with…always here!

Thank you Sir, for these vids--I did learn something!!--Nail polish
 
^^^
Yeah, the stove guy likes to use nail polish as a sealer. Until him, I’ve never heard of it. The lantern guy doesn’t think a sealer is necessary. Don’t know??
 
I read and searched a bit but does anyone have solid tips on fixing cracks in the plastic base of a metal Coleman cooler? I have one that my mom always used with us growing up but the plastic cracked in one place. I thought about smearing some epoxy on it but thought maybe someone following this thread has a better idea.

Thanks all!
 
what up y'all? it's the height of spring garage sale season here in AZ and I haven't come up with anything good lately Coleman-wise! hoping you guys are having better luck.
 
what up y'all? it's the height of spring garage sale season here in AZ and I haven't come up with anything good lately Coleman-wise! hoping you guys are having better luck.
I found a minty 3-burner Sears(re-branded Coleman with a few differences) in the blue and orange variety.
 
A while ago, I snagged a 424 2 burner from a co-worker, I have attempted to adjust all of the settings on it from various youtube videos / other message boards.

My issue is that the fuel control knob does not really seem to do much, at the setting that is very nearly off, its still an uncontrollable (to cook on) flame.

Any pointers?
 
@roflbox maybe you have too much pressure. Try this:

1) open fuel cap & release all pressure.
2) tighten cap back up
3) pump only 10-12 good pumps
4) have lever in top position
5) open fuel knob all the way & light

Let it run for a minute, turn lever down & pump it up some more. 424’s are great stoves.
 
A while ago, I snagged a 424 2 burner from a co-worker, I have attempted to adjust all of the settings on it from various youtube videos / other message boards.

My issue is that the fuel control knob does not really seem to do much, at the setting that is very nearly off, its still an uncontrollable (to cook on) flame.

Any pointers?
The generator may be dirty/clogged up.
You can disassemble and inspect and clean, replace, or poor a WEE bit of fuel injector cleaner in the tank with some white gas, and burn it long and full throttle as you can get!
 
I have 3 Coleman 220 lanterns that I haven't used in years and I'm having no luck getting them lit. They all ran before I stored them. I emptied the 20-year-old gas and refilled with fresh gas but no lite. I had one new spare generator, so I installed that and still no lite. Suggestions please.
 
How about the pump up leather/rubber cup and/or filler cap gasket? Is the fuel tank getting AND holding the pressure that you are pumping?
 
I have 3 Coleman 220 lanterns that I haven't used in years and I'm having no luck getting them lit. They all ran before I stored them. I emptied the 20-year-old gas and refilled with fresh gas but no lite. I had one new spare generator, so I installed that and still no lite. Suggestions please.
1) With the lantern cold, turn the pump knob a turn and a half open, pump the lantern like a maniac. Do you ever get resistance? If you open the filler cap, do you get a hiss? What about letting it set for 10 minutes and then opening the filler cap, do you get a hiss then too?

2) If it's holding air, pump the crap out of it until you get significant resistance. Open the valve a 1/4 turn. Do you get a hiss? Open the valve several turns. Do you get a his AND a gurgle or splash noise? Note, close the valve rapidly after this so you don't spew liquid fuel all over the inside of the manifold and everything else.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom