Builds Romer's 200 Build Thread (2 Viewers)

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And I modified my front skid plate to make oil changes easier. The Fumuto on the Oil drain was awesome and I replaced the filetr cap with Brian's new Cap. I discussed it in this thread and Brians new Oil filter Performance Cap can be found here

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Changed my oil this weekend and it was a lot easier just removing 3 bolts from this panel and turning it so it was out of the way

Opening the valve to let the oil drain, putting a 54MM wrench on the much improved filter cap. Having the valvle on the oil pan made it easier. Still wish it was a regular filter, but the process is much easier now
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some updates. Having to actually change a tire with this ARB rear bumper Highlift attachment was a pain. The two bolts holding the inside bracket to the tire mount were hard to get to with very little movement of the wrench due to access. It took me almost 10 minutes to take tire off and most of it was due to this
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So I went back to the previous location behind the ARB Drawers
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I did slash two tires at LCDC and WAS EXTREMELY happy I selected the 13 Gal Aux tank and run two spares.

The Aux tank has performed great. I drove from Denver to Telluride without stopping for Gas which is as far as I would want to go without stopping for a "rest" break. I do have a frontrunner 2 can carrier that goes on my roof rack if I am going somewhere gas is scarce. So far that hasen't been the case

I bought some tool bags at Lowes and cut the tops off. They helped me better organize my storage drawers


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one more thing. When I was replacing the first flat I was using the bottle jack and it wasn't tall enough. Fortunately @Markuson had a Hi-Lift Jack Base and that made the difference. First thing I ordered and added to my kit when I got home. It is much safer changing a tire with a bottle jack when you can, plus it will help the Hi lift be more stable from a ground perspective. $38 on Amazon

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I have one of those that I got years back for driving on the beach. Haven't used it yet.
 
Ken,

I have never considered carrying a second spare. Maybe I should. Come to think of it, in all my years wheeling I can’t think of a time that me or anyone in my group has had a single flat. Do you think that is was just really bad luck or something else at play? Not aired down enough? Poor tire strength? Etc?

Smitty
 
or maybe it is bad driving skill. If your in a group of 200's or 100's not really abig deal as the spares of any of those will get you off the trail if it comes to that

I have split several tires over the years including BFG's Coopers and Toyo's. I did switch my air down from 18 to 22psi before this last set. The first one of the slashes I was driving fast trying to get back to the group that was awaiting for me. I had just done that section of trail with no issues and so I think speed was the factor there. The second one I was by myself and picked the tighter of two paths to get through. Looked easier at the beginning, but then was tight and pointy in one spot. I may increase my stauns to 24-25 psi for the future. It is a heavy truck and even at 22psi, the tires do pooch out

Why I am slashing tires is a great discussion over a beer. The fact that I have and a 2nd spare gives me peace of mind since I have gone through tires on the trail.

I do tend to try things some folks will take a bypass on or take a harder line as well. I always go with woodys saying, don't wheel it if you are afraid to break it
 
I am sure that by simply asking the question, I have doomed myself for the next ten years.

It would be interesting if any other 200s have had any tire issues. I wonder if there is a better PSI range than others due to weight and wheel/tire size. I have always run tires at 18 psi on the trails on my 80 (315/75/16). I wonder if the larger wheel size has anything to do with it. I think I remember you slashing a sidewall in Moab back in 2013 as well.

I am consistently told that I drive fast on trails (it isn’t intentional). My Baja MTZ, MTRs and Toyo AT IIs have all performed the same for me at 18psi.

Smitty
 
I did slash a tire in 2013 in my 100 coming down Poison Spider. I was driving fairly quickly as I recall. I also slashed one in 2016 in my 200 and I wasnt driving fast. Just going up a sharp edge on Fins that last year was roped off. Both time I had to buy a tire in Moab before hitting the trail again.

Obviously for me it is the right answer. Your mileage may vary :D
 
Well, I am sure I am doomed now that I had this discussion. It is definitely a small price to pay for the enjoyment of it all.
 
FWIW. I never slashed a tire the 7 years I had my 80. Could be the heavier truck or the fact both 100 and 200 are wider and I am still driving like I have an 80.
 
I think the weight has to have something to do with it. Maybe combined with 17” or 18” wheel size compared to the 16” of the 80.

Sorry to hijack your build thread with all the tire banter. I am done now.
 
I think the weight has to have something to do with it. Maybe combined with 17” or 18” wheel size compared to the 16” of the 80.

Sorry to hijack your build thread with all the tire banter. I am done now.

I've also been on multiple trips where I've lost two tires. Been carrying two spares since the first time it happened. I'm sure there are many reasons (myself included as the driver) including crappy wheels, having an overloaded truck, and perhaps running too low a pressure. This is the first trip in a while where I didn't have to tap into my spares :)
 
My $0.02 on air down pressure:

Folks seem to be focusing on an absolute psi for an air down pressure, but it really should be a percenrtage of what the recommended tire pressure is for full load at highway speeds. I think that percentage should be 50%.

For example, if your Recommended Cold Tire Inflation Pressure for full load at highway speeds is 40psi, then a good starting air down pressure would be 20psi. If your RCTIP is 46psi, then start at 23psi, and so on.

Based on terrain and speed, you might realize best results at slightly higher or lower pressures, but 50% is probably a good place to start.

HTH
 
That actually makes a lot of sense. Would put me on my KO2's at 21# which is slightly higher than I'd run in aggressive terrain, and right at where I go in "normal" conditions.

My $0.02 on air down pressure:

Folks seem to be focusing on an absolute psi for an air down pressure, but it really should be a percenrtage of what the recommended tire pressure is for full load at highway speeds. I think that percentage should be 50%.

For example, if your Recommended Cold Tire Inflation Pressure for full load at highway speeds is 40psi, then a good starting air down pressure would be 20psi. If your RCTIP is 46psi, then start at 23psi, and so on.

Based on terrain and speed, you might realize best results at slightly higher or lower pressures, but 50% is probably a good place to start.

HTH
 
My $0.02 on air down pressure:

Folks seem to be focusing on an absolute psi for an air down pressure, but it really should be a percenrtage of what the recommended tire pressure is for full load at highway speeds. I think that percentage should be 50%.

For example, if your Recommended Cold Tire Inflation Pressure for full load at highway speeds is 40psi, then a good starting air down pressure would be 20psi. If your RCTIP is 46psi, then start at 23psi, and so on.

Based on terrain and speed, you might realize best results at slightly higher or lower pressures, but 50% is probably a good place to start.

HTH


Thats the rule I have used. 18 psi vs 35 psi in my 80. Now going to 22 psi vs 44 psi I am setting at highway. I think recommended might be 42
 
Tell me more about your black grill.

Do you have a link to where I could buy it?
How well does it fit? Fit/finish okay?
I assume you lose radar cruise and maybe even front camera. Worth it?

I love the looks, but I can’t imagine throwing away the function of that tech.
 
Tell me more about your black grill.

Do you have a link to where I could buy it?
How well does it fit? Fit/finish okay?
I assume you lose radar cruise and maybe even front camera. Worth it?

I love the looks, but I can’t imagine throwing away the function of that tech.

Aftermarket Black Hex Grille Thread

No impact on Cruise and I had already relocated my camera to my ARB bumper. I used the FJ60 Toyota emblem
 
Been a great year, went to Moab and hung out with @Markuson and @TonyP . ....

Finally completed my Major mods with an Aux fuel tank from Ward installed by Slee
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...

Tech question on this switch on the tank from from Long Range Automotive.
The black/white wire from this switch is suppose to t-tap into the main oem fuel sending unit, and then this little computer can be programmed to auto fill, turn on at 1/4 tank and off at 3/4 tank when refilling. Where did it tap in? and what color is the wire coming from the sending unit up at the cluster? or what part of the harness? You push 4 times on the switch fairing quickly to get into the program mode.
Thanks .. I'm installing one and do not have the 200 series wire diagram.
 
Tech question on this switch on the tank from from Long Range Automotive.
The black/white wire from this switch is suppose to t-tap into the main oem fuel sending unit, and then this little computer can be programmed to auto fill, turn on at 1/4 tank and off at 3/4 tank when refilling. Where did it tap in? and what color is the wire coming from the sending unit up at the cluster? or what part of the harness? You push 4 times on the switch fairing quickly to get into the program mode.
Thanks .. I'm installing one and do not have the 200 series wire diagram.

I don't know anything about an autofill function or programming the "little" computer. Slee installed it, but I would assume based on my inspection and having installed one on my 80 that the switch connects directly to the pump with a senor connected to the fuel level sensor. It automatically shuts off when the tank is detected as empty for I think 2 minutes. I would ask Ward Harris any further questions in his thread on the tanks for 200 series
 

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