Quick Confirmation on Bleeding Brakes... (1 Viewer)

[Congo Cruiser]

Greetings everyone! 1995 FZJ80 with 170K.

I’ve found a number of threads and read the FSM on bleeding the brakes. Going to do so for the first time by myself (with a helper) next week.

Would just like to confirm the order in which to bleed (don’t recall the FSM specifying the order)...

1) Passenger Rear

2) LSPV

3) Driver Rear

4) Passenger Front

5) Driver Front

Do I have that right? Excuse this very basic question by a first timer. Just wanted to be double sure.

Any recommendations on preferred brands of brake fluid are welcome (I’ve read through the threads, but still welcome your thoughts).

My current fluid is about two years old and filthy, but the brakes work fine. The vehicle was in storage for a year of those two years. It’s time to change it out.

Of course any and all tips are also most welcome.

Thanks much!

 

[Tools R Us]

To flush the system, you don't really have to bleed it, well as long as you don't get any air in it.

We start by sucking the reservoir dry, remove the screen basket thing, using a turkey baster suck all of the fluid out. If the reservoir is grungy, remove it and wash it out, be sure to fully dry it before putting it back on. Now fill with fresh DOT3. This greatly reduces the pedal pumping needed to clear the system.

Start at the furthest bleeder, have your helper hold the pedal, with normal stopping pressure, open the bleeder, as soon as the flow slows close it. If you let the flow go till it stops, are much more likely to get air in it. Repeat until clear fluid comes out, frequently checking/replenishing reservoir level, if you let it run dry, will be starting over to get the air out.

Done correctly, it's a pretty quick/easy job. Going forward, we suck the reservoir dry and refill often, like every 6mo.

 

[flintknapper]

Correct.

Basically you are starting at the component (caliper) farthest from the Master Cylinder and then working your way back toward it. You may have some trouble with the LSPV. Also...unless you 'activate' the ABS module...it is possible to have some air collect there.

Some folks have difficulty getting these systems to bleed....others not.

 

[Congo Cruiser]

@Tools R Us & @flintknapper - thanks!

Tools, appreciate the easy to follow tips.

I’m glad I have the order correct. I’ve done brakes on my Camry before, but the LC system seems a bit more daunting. Perhaps it’s not.

Appreciate it guys!

 

[Pin_Head]

The only reason to bleed them is if you replace the calipers of other hydraulic parts. The order you bleed doesn’t matter. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Your brakes don’t care if the fluid is dark. They can’t see it.

 

[Pin_Head]

The only reason to bleed them is if you replace the calipers of other hydraulic parts. The order you bleed doesn’t matter. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Your brakes don’t care if the fluid is dark. They can’t see it.

 

[Congo Cruiser]

The only reason to bleed them is if you replace the calipers of other hydraulic parts. The order you bleed doesn’t matter. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Your brakes don’t care if the fluid is dark. They can’t see it.

Appreciate that @Pin_Head

I figured age of the fluid mattered. Brakes look ok. Perhaps I’ll wait.

 

[Pin_Head]

Appreciate that @Pin_Head

I figured age of the fluid mattered. Brakes look ok. Perhaps I’ll wait.

If it did, Toyota would have a recommended service interval for it like they do for oil changes.

 

[Tools R Us]

Brake fluid absolutely degrades. It's hygroscopic, as the moisture percentage climbs the boiling point falls. Also becomes acidic, so increasingly corrosive. It's true that color isn't a solid indicator, have seen relatively clear fluid that tested poor, but have never tested dark/black that tested good. For best performance and part life, changing it, keeping it fresh is recommended.

 

[RiverCityDave]

If you don’t change it, moisture will build up and cause corriosion internally.

 

[Congo Cruiser]

Thanks to all who’ve commented. Seems simple enough. Appreciate the confirmation.

 

[DRACO 911]

1) Passenger Rear

2) LSPV

3) Driver Rear

4) Passenger Front

5) Driver Front

I always cursed the LX450 Brakes, What a big POS. NOT, It actually brake very well if bled properly.

I added a step 6) back to the LSPV ( Load Sensor Pressure Valve ). Honestly, I did not know it had it. No wonder I could not get a 100% bleed.

Came out Bubble Free and Clean but I figured I follow Chilton's steps just to be sure.

Big Tip: Pump SLOWWWWWW. Pumping quickly creates a foaming action. The other I thing I did was, I had my helper ( wifey ) press the pedal 2"s then I removed the bleeder valve and place SilGlyde on the threads to insure no errand air could get in and kept the turn out to 1/8 , waste hose line up to watch the bubbles.

Wow: LSPV, actually found a half line reference in the Chilton Guide, totally missed it all these years. DOH!

Bonus ordered 5 new bleeder caps , Napa $1.09 each. UP83151

Thanks to all Contributors and OP of posting!

 

[Congo Cruiser]

Got this done a few weeks ago...very easy.

Nice tips @DRACO 911. I’ll remember for next time. My helper (teenage son) fortunately was slow on the pedal, so I guess I didn’t experience any of the foaming you mentioned.

My only issue was a cheap bleed kit from the local auto parts store. Waste of time! Next time I’ll just get some plastic tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder valves and a water bottle for the waste. Would have been so much easier than messing with that stupid kit!

Now on to bigger and more challenging things...

 

[DRACO 911]

Outstanding!

Yeah, clear tube and old glass bottle is the best. I used glass because plastic tend to fall apart over time.

Working on that stoopid P0401. Ordered the "test kit" LC4Life. Can't wait.

 

[IanB]

I've always done both rear before the LSPV, as the LSPV is closer to the master cylinder than either of the rear calipers...is this not correct?

 

[DRACO 911]

I think you are fine as when I went back the second time it was clear/clean. The most important thing is to Bleed it.

 

[BILT4ME]

It also helps to lift PUSH DOWN the LSPV arm up to simulate heavy load and more brake pressure to the rear when bleeding.
If done with wheels off the ground and axle drooping, the bleeding will take more on the rear due to the valve restriction.

EDIT: Edit again:
Lift the arm to increase brake pressure, as the rear of the arm attaches to the top of the axle housing.
As the rear of the BODY lifts, it reduces brake pressure. When the body goes DOWN (as in more load) it increases the pressure.

So, when you bleed the rear, push the arm UP.

 

[DRACO 911]

^^^ Good to Know. Will do it next time for sure

 

[DRACO 911]

Update: Moms said brakes are like new much better than the first time I failed to bleed it properly. She is 105 lbs and always had difficulty braking her LX450, now brakes on a dime

Thanks again Fellas!

 

[Irish Reiver]

It also helps to lift PUSH DOWN the LSPV arm up to simulate heavy load and more brake pressure to the rear when bleeding.
If done with wheels off the ground and axle drooping, the bleeding will take more on the rear due to the valve restriction.

EDIT: It's not LIFT the arm, it's push it DOWN to simulate heavier load.
As the rear of the body lifts, it reduces brake pressure.

@BILT4ME Don't want to hijack the thread but seeking some clarification on the LSPV statement. When I did my 3" lift I chose not to delete the LSPV but instead I fabbed up a bracket to allow me to adjust it manually. I wanted to have the LSPV fully open to facilitate maximum rear braking so I adjusted the arm coming from the valve to its highest position. Have I done this wrong? Should I have adjusted it to its lowest position for maximum rear brakes?