3FE Help Needed! (1 Viewer)

[suttonkb]

I've recently resurrected a 1992 80. It needed head gaskets, so I replaced them. I also did a mild tune up while I was putting everything back together. This includes new ignitor, ignition control module, spark plugs, wires, rebuilt head, distributor, and retimed it.

I have been tackling issues as they've risen.
The other day I gave it it's first oil change in idk how long. After changing the oil, I let it run for a bit but noticed raw fuel coming from the exhaust pipe. I say that because I placed a rag under the tail pipe after noticing drips from the pipe and 10 mins later it was full of liquid that smelled very strongly of gas.

I did some research and found it could be the fuel pressure regulator or cold start injector. After checking and cleaning the cold start injector, I ordered a new fuel pressure regulator.

After installing the FPR today all seemed well except a serious need to adjust the valves. I haven't checked the clearance (didn't do it with the gasket rebuild because I knew nothing about these vehicles before starting) but I can tell by the sound that they need adjusting.

As I was allowing the truck to idle to make sure the fuel and exhaust problem went away (it did), the engine stalled hard. It wasn't a gradual bog down or anything normal sounding. It sounded mildly metallic. I retried the engine and it started but died again with the same sound. I don't want to try again because I don't want to mess anything up beyond my abilities.

I read that gas could get in the oil if it's giving too much like I was having before. I took the dipstick out and it seemed fine. The oil wasn't unnaturally runny or smelling of fuel. Could the valves have been so loose that one jumped off in any way? If anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it. I've Googled and read the FSM a lot and can't find anything sounding like my problem. I plan to take the valve cover off tomorrow and adjust the clearances but I'd really appreciate anyone's input. Sorry so long.

 

[maxamillion2345]

The 3FEs are pretty simple to adjust. I'd check the valves and just bar it over by hand. If you had enough fuel in the oil to cause immediate issues it'd be way up the dip stick. I'd also check your timing. Something that CAN happen with the 3FEs is to slip the nylon timing gear. Oh and I'd spin all your push rods too, check to make sure nothing bent.

 

[suttonkb]

I forgot to mention I've done a full desmog. Removed air pump, blocked egr, and plugged vacuum lines. After I replaced the head gaskets we timed it and I drove it home from the shop (about 20 miles) with no known engine issues. It seems like a big coincidence that upon changing the FPR I have my first issue..

 

[Marine7]

Remember the 3FE is a loud running engine to start with. Almost a sewing machine on steroids! So, just remember that no amount of adjustment is going to quiet that motor down. Good luck with the stalling.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

Since there was work on the head and valves, I would pull the valve cover, the spark plugs and investigate as you are planning on doing. By pulling the spark plugs you will be able to turn the engine over fairly easily by hand and do an inspection of your valves and adjustments. The liquid out of your tail pipe was condensation mixed with a rich exhaust.

 

[suttonkb]

Since there was work on the head and valves, I would pull the valve cover, the spark plugs and investigate as you are planning on doing. By pulling the spark plugs you will be able to turn the engine over fairly easily by hand and do an inspection of your valves and adjustments. The liquid out of your tail pipe was condensation mixed with a rich exhaust.

I was really hoping to adjust my valves like you've posted about. Doing so while it's running. If I get in there and the engine turns free, the rockers are all good, and I don't see anything catastrophic, do you think it'll be okay to continue with the process you laid out in another thread?

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

I was really hoping to adjust my valves like you've posted about. Doing so while it's running. If I get in there and the engine turns free, the rockers are all good, and I don't see anything catastrophic, do you think it'll be okay to continue with the process you laid out in another thread?

You mentioned a metallic sound with an abrupt engine stall. I think there is something wrong here. If all is ok, sure, adjusting the valves while the engine running has amazing results and after doing so the only ticking you should hear are the injectors.

 

[suttonkb]

You mentioned a metallic sound with an abrupt engine stall. I think there is something wrong here. If all is ok, sure, adjusting the valves while the engine running has amazing results and after doing so the only ticking you should hear are the injectors.

I've heard many engines (even this one) bog down and die and it was definitely different. It was idling fine and then boom nothing. Took less than a second to stall. And it didn't sound good when it did it. This has me wanting to find a cheap 6.0 even more..

 

[BILT4ME]

Pull your spark plugs and look at them. Check for excessive black and wet which could be liquid fuel (fuel fouled) indicating the cold start injector or another injector stuck open.
Coolant on one (head gasket again) as it could be leaking enough at idle to cause the cylinder to hydrolock if it made noise like that.

DO NOT TURN OVER THE ENGINE AGAIN until you pull the spark plugs, You MAY hydraulic a cylinder which will bend rods and break stuff.

Definitely pull the valve cover and check valve adjustment and push rods to check for bent ones.

 

[pappy]

I don't believe you can adjust the valves on a 3FE with the engine running. It will stall since you would be allowing unmetered air. Just do it hot and rotate by hand with the plugs out.

 

[suttonkb]

Number 3 plug..

 

[pengfinn]

Yikes! Shes a goner

 

[BILT4ME]

Number 3 plug..

View attachment 1681972

Oh, dear God!

Broken Valve that is floating around in the cylinder! I am basing that on the groove cut into the end of the plug.

Pull your valve cover and check the push rods and check the valve springs. You've got one loose!

Sorry for your loss!

 

[suttonkb]

Oh, dear God!

Broken Valve that is floating around in the cylinder! I am basing that on the groove cut into the end of the plug.

Pull your valve cover and check the push rods and check the valve springs. You've got one loose!

Sorry for your loss!

I've pulled the cover. Checked the push rods first and they were loose like I anticipated but not free or anything. Oh well guess I'll need to throw an LS in it.

 

[Technician1985]

Would be cheaper to get another head from a junk yard or something

 

[suttonkb]

If this anchor of an engine comes out, it's not going back in

 

[BILT4ME]

This one's not just a head problem anymore. Whatever is rattling around in that cylinder has eaten the piston as well as the head, maybe even the cylinder wall.

If you want to CONSIDER reinstalling a 3FE, you may be able to get one from @arcteryx ....

Otherwise, it may be easier to swap to an LS for this (or a Cummins 4/6BT) since you have less controls in it.

Good Luck!

Maybe a carbureted 572 CI........?

 

[suttonkb]

I've got a family friend that's been a toyota tech for 25+ years who's planning to come by next week with a scope to look around before we go any further. if its done for then it'll get an LS swap when i get the stuff collected.