Timbren SES ....what are your thoughts (1 Viewer)

[Markuson]

Time for a GoPro and speed bumps testing. Even then it will only be a visual reference. Where are the engineers?

Funny... I was just about to type that same GoPro idea.

 

[stellz996]

why dont you just unbolt 1 and put it in a bench vice and keep tighteningit until it has definetly stopped compressing

 

[Markuson]

why dont you just unbolt 1 and put it in a bench vice and keep tighteningit until it has definetly stopped compressing

Trying to imagine how would that mimic momentum compression at speed under a 7500# truck...

 

[stellz996]

mate the bump stop can inly compress to a certain point, dont see how it matters which way, as long as its at its compression limit

 

[Markuson]

mate the bump stop can inly compress to a certain point, dont see how it matters which way, as long as its at its compression limit

Right. But what I’m trying to determine is whether the bump stop is MORE protection than is necessary...and wasting available compression space in the wheel well. -Not just whether it will hit at the limit of the stop in a vice which the truck may or may not reach...but whether compression is being limited more than is necessary in real use.

In other words...I know the current bump stop will protect my wheel well. What I don’t know is whether it is too strong and thus wasting available space that could allow more compression.

 

[stellz996]

ahh i see, i need to know if they will neautraluze the chance of shock damage from strut spacers haha.

i have a feeling the active bumpstops in your case will still compress completely, the ses kit on the other hand is meant to add load suport so steer away from them if you want full compression

 

[Jason Andrews]

The part that is so hard to judge is figuring out compression when uptravel is multiplied by momentum at speed. It’s one thing to measure compression with a jack or forklift—which is more like slow crawls over rocks, etc...but that won’t mimic the massive potential for the greater, violent uptravel when you hit a nasty bump at 60MPH, that compresses you coils and bumps beyond simply vehicle weight.

So...crawling over a rock...you end up sacrificing losing full compression because of the stiffness needed to prevent damage at speed.

Makes me want to come up with some way to measure how close the treads come speed. Otherwise, if I trim based on a forklift compressiontest...I could be in for a nasty surprise where a desert speed hit takes it deeper.

Resurrecting this from the dead.

This is true, you will sacrifice off road compression bump stoping for full speed hits IF you are bumping at the frame in the rear. I avoided this on the front of my 80 by removing the 2" metal bump stop extension inside the coil spring and replacing it by mounting a Timbren AOR bump to the bottom of the coil perch. So it still has the same or even more overall up-travel, but it touches much sooner to control compression on unexpected hard high speed hits.

I'd like to apply the same principle to the rear of the 200. With the dimensions of the rear bumps it's more complicated and I can't see an easy way to set it up the same way. But if you can limit travel there, inside the coil spring bump stops, it should not effect the articulated compression off road.

The coil bumps have ~2" of crush and are much more forgiving on engagement than the hard rubber ones on the frame so think it's more ideal to utilize them as the primary bumps anyway.

 

[ttrmike]

For those with Timbren SES bumps in the rear, how tall is the whole setup? From the bottom of the frame to the end of the SES bumpstop.

The timbren site only listed the measurements for the active offroad bump.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

For those with Timbren SES bumps in the rear, how tall is the whole setup? From the bottom of the frame to the end of the SES bumpstop.

The timbren site only listed the measurements for the active offroad bump.

I should be installing these next week, so I'll measure and post up.

 

[thebc]

I have the rears in hand, just waiting on the fronts. Shop is saying they need 4hrs just to do the rears and that it includes an alignment. Is all of that needed or are they taking me for a ride? It’s a reputable shop so I have no reason to think anything other than them playing it safe. Thoughts?

 

[bloc]

I have the rears in hand, just waiting on the fronts. Shop is saying they need 4hrs just to do the rears and that it includes an alignment. Is all of that needed or are they taking me for a ride? It’s a reputable shop so I have no reason to think anything other than them playing it safe. Thoughts?

Zero need for an alignment. Loosen lower shock bolts and diff breather from body, if the axle doesn’t hang far enough down to clear the springs use a bottle jack between it and the frame.

Their basis for the alignment may be assuming they need to loosen rear links.. technically an alignment after that is best practice to get everything perfect. I wouldn’t be messing with the links though. If you were changing static ride heigh then yes you’d need to reset the link bushing positions.

 

[kreiten]

No need for alignment, I installed the rear Timbrem SES bumpstops in my driveway in under an hour, super easy install... Just 2 or 3 bolts on each side, I had to cut them with a sawsal to clear, I heard the new ones may have that problem fixed?

 

[bloc]

No need for alignment, I installed the rear Timbrem SES bumpstops in my driveway in under an hour, super easy install... Just 2 or 3 bolts on each side, I had to cut them with a sawsal to clear, I heard the new ones may have that problem fixed?

View attachment 3024975

They don’t even go inside the spring? Hah.. even easier.

 

[kreiten]

They don’t even go inside the spring? Hah.. even easier.

yep, super easy, could be done in under 30 minutes, I was drinking a beer and relaxing so an hour The only part that even slowed me down at all was cutting the inside lip so it didn't hit the spring, I heard they fixed that on the new ones so really maybe 10 minutes per side, super easy job!

 

[bloc]

yep, super easy, could be done in under 30 minutes, I was drinking a beer and relaxing so an hour The only part that even slowed me down at all was cutting the inside lip so it didn't hit the spring, I heard they fixed that on the new ones so really maybe 10 minutes per side, super easy job!

Good to hear. Even more clear that shop’s quote is way off the mark.