Head valve stem seals? (1 Viewer)

[brian]

So i had a head rebuilt.
But i noticed it has different valve stem seals on it.
I pulled my old head and it has a rubber cone like seal.
The new head has plastic and a spring type seal.
After making a crude spring compressor.
It looks like the fancy seal would fit in the rubber seal.
What gives?

 

[Shark56]

Brian when I had one done a few years back the tech said he upgraded to a hardened valve seal because of the unleaded fuel.
I never really looked at the difference.
I

 

[pjohnson]

Brian when I had one done a few years back the tech said he upgraded to a hardened valve seal because of the unleaded fuel.
I never really looked at the difference.
I

I think your tech meant hardened valve seat. The seal wouldn't have anything to do with the fuel type.

 

[Shark56]

You are exactly right. He did the seats also but mention a newer seal.
Of course this was about 6 years ago. Memory sucks at times.

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

My guess is that the black one is an umbrella type seal. It just covers the valve stem. The other one is the type that attaches to the valve stem.

FYI- I picked up some Autozone seals earlier this year. They turned out to be repackaged Viton parts, made in Japan. Worked great

 

[brian]

Did some reading.
The black one is umbrella style.
The other is a later style.
They are 100 percet interchangeable, but the later style is a much better design, especially when viton seals are used.

 

[spotcruiser]

When I rebuilt a '76 2F some years ago, I noticed that the OEM rubber seals were all cracked and loose. I went with the later steel/viton seals.

 

[CHCP]

A couple of years ago I changed the umbrella seals to the new valve stem seals on my 78 2f because I was losing oil and thought maybe it was running down the stems because of worn guides. I ran the engine for a couple of days then looked at the new seals and found that one or two had moved up the stems, I don't think they seat very well.

 

[SteveH]

Valve stem seals can pop loose and ride up on the stem, but it is fairly rare. It does result in a sudden increase in oil burning, on most engines. The metal seals should be driven down until they firmly seat on the head (obviously).

 

[Dizzy]

@brian
Do you have more pics of your valve spring compressor?

I pulled the manifolds today, and about three of the valve stems are oily. I'm thinking about replacing stem seals on the block with compressed air pumped in the spark plug hole to keep them from falling. Even with the head removed, and a potential day lost to cleaning head gasket, I would have no clue where to find a decent spring compressor.
-Paul

 

[pjohnson]

Valve spring compressors are typically a rental tool at most major auto parts stores.

AutoZone rents tools

Store Locator | AutoZone.com

Use the map to find AutoZone Store near you. Visit Store Locator to learn about Hours Of Operation and Contact Information of your local AutoZone.

m.autozone.com

 

[Dizzy]

Valve spring compressors are typically a rental tool at most major auto parts stores.

AutoZone rents tools

Store Locator | AutoZone.com

Use the map to find AutoZone Store near you. Visit Store Locator to learn about Hours Of Operation and Contact Information of your local AutoZone.

m.autozone.com

Conventional valve spring tools need the head to be removed. If I go thru all of that, I'll probably have the whole head examined by a reputable shop. The last time that I pulled a 2F head, the head gasket was so stuck on I had to pull the head with a crane, it separated the front motor mounts in half, and my scraping of the head caused a nasty gouge that I'll have to machine out. The OEM head gasket arrived in the mail in corrugated cardboard, so it came bent.

I'd like a solution that allows me to just deal with the oil leak like it was an oil pan or a rear main.

 

[Steamer]

No need to remove the head to replace valve seals. Just the rocker assembly.

I bought the OTC 4573 tool and hated it. I couldn’t compress the spring enough to release the keepers. I quickly made my own with material I had laying around. Worked great and still have it. If I took my time it would have been less crude, but the basic design would remain.

To release my stuck keepers. Before compressing the spring and with air holding valve shut, I placed a 1/4" x 6” brass pipe nipple with the threads cut off, over the tip of the valve stem and whacked with a hammer. It pushed the keepers down releasing them and then they jumped back up in place. But then were unstuck. Then compressed the spring with the tool and a magnet pulled the keepers out.


This is the OTC 4573 not working so good.

This is my homemade tool.

 

[pjohnson]

Steamer's solution is cool. I think I did something similar many, many years ago.

I do remember that I made sure the piston was TDC or close just in case the air supply had a problem and the valve dropped down. This way it couldn't disappear into the cylinder.

 

[Steamer]

Steamer's solution is cool. I think I did something similar many, many years ago.

I do remember that I made sure the piston was TDC or close just in case the air supply had a problem and the valve dropped down. This way it couldn't disappear into the cylinder.

That's good insurance. Hadn't thought about that. And knowing my luck, the air hose would blow off and beat me up as the valve dropped down on a cylinder that just happened to be at BDC.
And now I'm laughing, thinking about all the creative ways one might attempt to retrieve the dropped valve without removing the head. Maybe it's been done.

 

[middlecalf]

Did some reading.
The black one is umbrella style.
The other is a later style.
They are 100 percet interchangeable, but the later style is a much better design, especially when viton seals are used.

Where are you finding info on this? I can’t find these parts in the engine parts manual either, just 90913-02001 and only 6 are listed. Do the umbrella style move up and down on the valve? Trying to figure this out. Thanks.

 

[brian]

the newer style superseded the older style.

 

[flx]

the newer style superseded the older style.

No, not in Toyota catalogs and part number system !

On my 74 F155 when I had to replace them my mech was not very happy with the new style stem seal and said he had difficulties to have them seat correctly and had to find something to clip them in place. I wasn't around here when this part happened so haven't been able to see myself the exact issue but I'll be curious to see how people install the old versus new style stem seal. I was also wondering if the 76+ head may have something to clip in place the seal that the older ones don't have.

 

[middlecalf]

@brian what motor is that in the earlier pictures with offset valves? Yes I’m ignorant but my F135 has flush (for the most part) valves.

 

[Dynosoar]

Old School: Pull the plug move piston to the top of the cylinder fill space with some cordage through the spark plug hole and viola you can then safely remove the spring, with out fear of the valve hitting the piston or dropping all the way down.

Dyno