2F Valve Stem Seal Replacement / Parts not similar help (1 Viewer)

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The seal with the built in spring seat (washer looking thing), is original to my 2F engine. It is a 1 piece part. My new replacement seals did not have the spring seat as part of the design, so I removed the old and cut off the spring seat and put that back on , with the new seal placed above it (tamped down).

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Would be great to learn the Toyota or aftermarket part number for the sombrero combo seat/seal.
I think the number is wrong but the pic looks right. "HERE" Only one set left.
 
Thanks, @Steamer . The detailed descriptions I have seen on these eventually declare "unbranded" and the part numbers "for reference only."

Many of these so-called "parts houses" in Indonesia and Thailand are questionable, with excessive shipping costs and delays, and locally manufactured look-alike parts. Several even have created their own counterfeit Toyota labels with made-up part numbers.

Appreciate your effort to find a part number. Thank-you.
 
Sorry to hijack the thread but have a novice question...

When replacing the valve stem seals, I assume most of these posts are doing so with the head still on the engine.
If so, when doing so, are you doing one cylinder at a time with each cylinder being TDC to prevent the valves from falling into the chamber? Or are you pressurizing each cylinder with air to keep the valves pushed up?

Just curious as I am nearing tackling this myself.

Thanks
 
Sorry to hijack the thread but have a novice question...

When replacing the valve stem seals, I assume most of these posts are doing so with the head still on the engine.
If so, when doing so, are you doing one cylinder at a time with each cylinder being TDC to prevent the valves from falling into the chamber? Or are you pressurizing each cylinder with air to keep the valves pushed up?

Just curious as I am nearing tackling this myself.

Thanks
If leaving the head on, I used some clean 1/4” thick rope, and removed the spark plug, positioned piston about half way up (using long screw driver through plug hole), fed the rope into cylinder until no more would fit ( about 4 feet of rope), then by hand rotated the engine until stop. Really easy, quick. Once seal and spring is replaced, rotate engine by hand in the opposite direction to lower the piston, and pull out rope.
 
If leaving the head on, I used some clean 1/4” thick rope, and removed the spark plug, positioned piston about half way up (using long screw driver through plug hole), fed the rope into cylinder until no more would fit ( about 4 feet of rope), then by hand rotated the engine until stop. Really easy, quick. Once seal and spring is replaced, rotate engine by hand in the opposite direction to lower the piston, and pull out rope.
Interesting.
Do you also replace the spring keepers at this time?
 

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