2F Valve Stem Seal Replacement / Parts not similar help (1 Viewer)

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neverdone

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1979 2F engine, D smogged, 91,000 miles, in the middle of replacing valve stem seals, and the replacement seals do not match the original seals on the engine. Been getting white smoke on start up that seems to reduce as temperature of engine reaches normal. More white smoke while driving down long steep declines using engine for breaking, figured it’s time to replace the valve stem seals.

1) should I try to order a replacement part that matches? My research seems to point to the original part is no longer made.

2) should I cut the base off the original part and reuse with the new part? So spring height and valve clearance stays the same?

3) how do you install the new seal? Do you just press it on or do you force it on with some kind of socket or something? How hard do you press to install the new seals?

Thanks In advance!

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I would cut the top of the old seal off flush with that spring seat/washer, install it on the guide and use your new seals. Those are the same style I used on my 79 40 and they worked fine.
 
I would cut the top of the old seal off flush with that spring seat/washer, install it on the guide and use your new seals. Those are the same style I used on my 79 40 and they worked fine.
Thanks fjc-man! That’s what I will do.
How much force should I use when installing new seals? Did you tap them down with something?
 
First off, white smoke is coolant in combustion chamber, so headgasket.

Blue/gray would be oil leaks in combustion chamber.

Either way the answer is.....

You are missing the spring seat. The version you have is just a cupped design to seal.

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Here is the aftermarket version you can get from some suppliers.

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Nate, that’s why I suggested cutting the tops off the old seals and reusing. Those are the spring seats. Whether the PO needs stem seals or a headgasket is a valid point, he was asking about stem seals. To answer the question about install, find the closest fitting tube/pipe/socket that will set on that outer seal rim and tap it down lightly. You will “feel” when it is seated.
 
Toyota Parts Deal shows OEM still available. “Seats” and “Seals”
Seats are reasonable but seals are pricey.
 
Thanks for the info! Moving forward with trimming spring seats, and using new seals!
 
How much force should I use when installing new seals? Did you tap them down with something?
The new seals need to be tapped down until the upper metal lip is up against the top of the valve guide.
See crude photo markup, the lip at the red arrow needs to be against the top of the valve guide.
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I did this a while back and I recall using a 12 pt socket or pipe scrap. Nothing special and only a few light taps with a small ball peen hammer, youll be able to feel when it bottoms out.
If you are worried you could take come measurements off a flat spot on the head to make sure they are all the way down.
 
The new seals need to be tapped down until the upper metal lip is up against the top of the valve guide.
See crude photo markup, the lip at the red arrow needs to be against the top of the valve guide.
View attachment 3397212

I did this a while back and I recall using a 12 pt socket or pipe scrap. Nothing special and only a few light taps with a small ball peen hammer, youll be able to feel when it bottoms out.
If you are worried you could take come measurements off a flat spot on the head to make sure they are all the way down.
 
Perfect! Thanks! I’ve never done valve seals before, and just wanted to make sure not to screw it up! Now with all y’all’s help, I will get this done and running again!
 
A little insurance would be to put a piece of a soft drink straw ( if you think the diameter too big, slit the straw length wise ) over the valve stem so when the new seal is slipped over the keeper grooves, the seal lip doesn’t get nicked.
Great tip, will do. Thanks!
 
Great post , So I had my head rebuilt I bought a head gasket kit the shop calls me and said the valve seal don’t fit they are different than the ones that were in it, well now Iam looking for seals like the old ones can’t find them, So he put seals from a Chevy LS said they would work, well now I found I right seals and now need to install because the LS seals don’t seal like they should, I found the right ones, that’s what Iam going with. Wish I had known about tapping them on, they lost all the old seals when they took it apart for rebuild
 
Great post , So I had my head rebuilt I bought a head gasket kit the shop calls me and said the valve seal don’t fit they are different than the ones that were in it, well now Iam looking for seals like the old ones can’t find them, So he put seals from a Chevy LS said they would work, well now I found I right seals and now need to install because the LS seals don’t seal like they should, I found the right ones, that’s what Iam going with. Wish I had known about tapping them on, they lost all the old seals when they took it apart for rebuild
Where did you end up finding the correct seals?
 
So my question is in the pics above there is a seal with a seat for the spring and a seal without the spring seat. One person mentioned the spring seat was missing and posted a pic of what looks like a hardened seat for the spring ( a washer sorta ). I assume the washer style spring seat is for use with the tap on seal no bottom ( newer) ?
It seems useless to have the hardened spring seat washer and the seals with spring seats ? Can someone confirm ?
 
Yes, the mix up is the one piece seal/seat combo will either need the same style, or cut the seat off the old seal and re-use with the stubby style seal.
 
Thats what the ? is, in th epics there is a spring seat washer looking style spring seat that is different than the bottom of the all in one style ? The washer & the bottom of the all in one style seem to be diff thickness which would to some degree change the valve spring pressure.
 
I think the thickness difference between the two styles isn’t worth getting excited about. 2F is not a high performance engine.
 
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