Are you going to stuff hundred dollar bills into the tires as internal runflats?
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Well duh, what else would I doAre you going to stuff hundred dollar bills into the tires as internal runflats?
It wasn't as much $$$ as people think it is to be honest.. I mean yes it is still a good amount but putting long travel on my last truck cost more than this did. But its the work for 40's that make it really expensive.One of my favorite builds, just needs a 6bt/nv4500 to make it easy to break stuff. But think of how fast it’ll break em! Badass man, wish I could drop that kinda coin right now, maybe in a year or two.
We were just talking about it! Ill PM youYou and Andrew need to come down to central Oregon and do a snow run with us. Your 80s would fit right in! Nice looking build btw.
Hey a****** I was eating s*** in the snow tryin to walk up that hill hahahaYou video guy did a great job.
Stock wheel base is 115", at least where I looked? Internet info for ya.So did you move the rear axle back 3" stock wheelbase is 112. If so I never would have noticed.
Looks awesome, the only thing I would add for an 80 with 40's is the transfer case gears. Nice work!
If you play in rocks you will want them. But its fine without for trail rides and snow if thats more your speed. And I wouldnt hesitate to run the 300 dollar gears.Stock wheel base is 115", at least where I looked? Internet info for ya.
Yeah debating on the gears.. I have an appointment at Torfab on the 24th to have them done but not sure a 25% reduction is worth nearly $1500.. we'll see, hopefully going to test Andrew's on the rocks this week and that'll tell me.
Stock wheel base is 115", at least where I looked? Internet info for ya.
Yeah debating on the gears.. I have an appointment at Torfab on the 24th to have them done but not sure a 25% reduction is worth nearly $1500.. we'll see, hopefully going to test Andrew's on the rocks this week and that'll tell me.
It means nothing if I say the cost. It all depends on the shop and there are so many factors with linking that can change the price drastically. If someone is that serious about linking then they'll find a shop and get a quote for exactly what they need done, just like I did.How much did it cost? It might help others understand if they want to follow your approach. Looks like nice components. Any pics of the links?
Moving the axle forward an inch will not give you a 116" wheelbase.
Y link steering is terrible. @jcardona1 can comment. And you're going to want hydro assist if you wheel for real, not a stabilizer.
The drag link and track bar heights look screwy but maybe its just the angles.
What sort of link geometry did you end up with?
Y links? Because you're creating a gigantic numb spot in the steering by having the drag link roll the tie rod forwards or backwards until the tie rod ends bind. Go have someone crank your steering wheel back and forth and watch the tie rod ends weeble wobble aroundIt means nothing if I say the cost. It all depends on the shop and there are so many factors with linking that can change the price drastically. If someone is that serious about linking then they'll find a shop and get a quote for exactly what they need done, just like I did.
Why is it so bad? Many people have been wheeling it for years with no problems
Y links? Because you're creating a gigantic numb spot in the steering by having the drag link roll the tie rod forwards or backwards until the tie rod ends bind. Go have someone crank your steering wheel back and forth and watch the tie rod ends weeble wobble around
Ohh I got one of those on there.