Looking for a write-up on engine removal (1 Viewer)

[flagstaff]

I'm planning on replacing my engine with another 4.5 LC engine and I have been having a hard time locating any write-ups on engine removal and replacement. (too many engine swap discussions to weed through)

I have a 93 FSM (my LC is a 94) and it details removing the engine with the tranny but not the engine alone.

I'm having a difficult time with the two bolts on the top of the bell housing to separate the engine from the tranny. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
Flagstaff.

 

[mechanist]

flip to the page where you separate the motor from the transmission. It should clear up why it's probably best to remove them as one unit. There are some tight clearances to work with.

 

[jfz80]

That's an extensive write up you seek. Not sure ive seen it all spelled out. Probably worth weeding through those threads coming up with your own plan of attack.

Concretejungles writeup in faq may have some hints. A friend and i did a swap last weekend as well. No writeup. Unbolt everything you can find; mechanical and electrical. Take pics and label all the hardware.

Top two trans bolts suck. But two ways to get at them

A) 30" of extension + a wobble and attack from behind the tcase

B) remove motor mounts an lower motor and get at from above between head and firewall

Make sure you get em all before you start yanking and pulling

 

[jfz80]

Also, choke up the motor hoist as close as you can to get as much lift as possible. We used a chain and skipped the load leveler as it cost a few inches of lift.

You dont have to remove ac condenser or open system. Front rad support with hood latch can stay but removing gives you maybe 2" of clearance but makes condesor vulnerable.

If you can, it makes it easier but again not required. Removal of y pipe at cat end (if not welded straight like out last project) also trans cooler hardlines. Not required but they are vulnerable and removal will give you extra width to get bellhousing through when lifting.

 

[jfz80]

Its not easy but its possible to fish the harness up through the intake runners leaving the whole intake together and attached. Remove starter and get conformable (cause comfortable aint happening) in the wheelwell. Then unplug the 6-8 connectors and fish one at a time or at least offset up between the runners.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

@flagstaff it really is going to be easier to remove the engine and trans as a unit through the front after removing the grill, radiator, core support etc... otherwise you may end up needing a new radiator and breaking things. It will also be easier to lineup the trans and such with the engine and trans out.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Let us know how it goes

 

[jfz80]

Radiator should come out anyways. Ive worked on three 1fz swaps that did not pull the whole drivetrain. The one that did made me nervous of the weight suspended there but all went fine.

It may be a little easier just make sure you have a quality hoist rated for the weight and with enough lift and long enough legs to be stable. Work smart.

Only downside is you just opened up the a/c system to do it that way. Might be fine depending on what all is planned for the project but add evac, fill, and a drier to your list.

 

[bahamasair]

I didn't have a problem pulling just the engine out of mine. I went with the multiple extensions for the top bolts and had my son help guide the socket on through the wheel well if I remember right. I removed the radiator but left everything else in place in the front, I fished the harness through the intake the plugs going to the trans can be a bitch to get to but once you figure it out it's not too bad

 

[flagstaff]

You Guys are great! Thanks for the advice.

 

[skhochay]

 

[flagstaff]

Removed the motor mounts and dropped the engine. This allowed me to put 4 feet of extensions on the two bolts on the top of the bell housing and remove them.
One important note; You need one person on top of the engine guiding the socket on the bolt and another under the car to loosen it.
A bit tough but worked!!

Thanks guys!

 

[flagstaff]

Engine's out. A few notes:
1. That's a lot of electrical going through the intake manifold.
2. There is also a more connections than I thought under the intake manifold. Lots of electrical, including the cluster by the transmission, ground straps, fuel, brackets for the transmission cooling lines... It was hard to see all that needed to be disconnected.
3. Its easier to remove the exhaust in front of the cat than the transmission cooler lines. One of the two had to be removed to get the engine out.
4. I took out the radiator but not the transmission rad, AC rad or center brace. Everything came out well.

Anyone want pics while I have the engine out?
Thanks for all the advice.
Flagstaff

 

[flagstaff]

Transferring parts from the old engine to the new one. one part is broken. The tee is rusted and broke. Any idea what this is, where I can get another one, or if I can fix the tee to reattach

the vacuum lines?

 

[Alaska ADV]

That is your EGR Valve. There should be a vacuum modulator next to it, and the T fitting has vacuum lines running from the intake and to the modulator.

 

[Kentex Rick]

Transferring parts from the old engine to the new one. one part is broken. The tee is rusted and broke. Any idea what this is, where I can get another one, or if I can fix the tee to reattach View attachment 1409591 the vacuum lines?

Yep, EGR. An expensive part, $300 or so IIRC. I took a dremel to mine and made a nice straight cut, added a short lenth of vacuum line and added a plastic tee. Seems to be doing fine.

 

[ajax1]

I've always separated the engine from tranny I think it is easier then pulling tranny and engine together, I just pull the rad and the grill out, leaving the cooler in place , pull the fan. Why pull the tranny if not needed. Once it is separated raise the engine up then out then up the all way out, use the last bolt hole on the hoist and you can get it plenty high

 

[flagstaff]

Thanks gents! I like the idea of an extension and a plastic tee. I'll post a picture of the repair tomorrow.

 

[Openroad98]

Flagstaff, I just went through the same process last year in swapping my engine in my 1994. NO EASY WAY to get at the top trans bellhousing bolts. After fighting like to badgers in a sinking bag with the stupid bolts, I finally got them removed. Not at all easy, and using the 30" of extensions back at the t-case method I was able to extract them. My secret weapon was a 8" extension off the socket and an impact wobble to give me flex right behind the bellhousing.

Honestly, I never got all the bolts back in... I'm still short 1 on the top of the bellhousing, passenger side. It's a total killer to get back in once the engine is back in the truck without pulling engine and trans together.

One huge warning I have for you after my dumb mistake, when dropping the engine in and sliding it back to mate up to the trans bellhousing, watch your clearances with the rear of the engine and the firewall/lower windshield frame of the cruiser. I raised the lowered the engine mulitple times in small increments as I added the engine to bellhousing bolts, trying to line them up as well as the engine mounts.

I ended up crushing fuel injector #6 at the back when (apparently) I impacted the firewall/trans tunnel and smashed the injector harness and plug. Kicked my arse for a few hours trying to figure out why the heck I was running on 5 cyls and had a consistent miss. Pulled all plug wires one at a time, then finally found my mistake.

Also, change ALL your hoses including the small PHH hoses on the block and the small ones on your heater valve and tee.

Here's a link to a time lapse of the engine removal... it was a LOT slower than this looks.

Here's a link to a time lapse of the engine installation...

And a couple pics of mine before and after install:

 

[gsi18867]

If anybody is pulling the engine without the trans, heads up on the TC pilot that may be lodged in the crank plate (forgot what this is called). If you dont pull the engine far enough forward or push the TC far enough backwards, you will be buying a new TC.