To get the top two tranny bolts, I just use a wobble impact socket and extension, with a impact gun spins them right off, you could undo the cross member bolts some while supporting the tranny and make little more room, or nother trick is to start lifting the engine just high enough to remove the engine mounts then lower the engine back down slowly almost touching the pan to the axle. Leaving the hoist hooked up this will give you more room for top two holes also. I usually just stick wobble up there and forgo both those methods.
Looking for a write-up on engine removal
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Got the EGR fixed. Thanks @Alaska ADV and @Kentex Rick for the info and elegant solution.
PHH this afternoon and hopefully getting ready to start the install process.
PHH this afternoon and hopefully getting ready to start the install process.
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- #23
Thanks guys and @Openroad98 I appreciate the insight.
The engine is in, all bell housing bolts and both motor mounts are in.
The engine is in, all bell housing bolts and both motor mounts are in.
The trick to getting the upper two tranny bolts is to peel back the carpet and drill two 1.5 inch holes in the fire wall with a bimetal hole saw. Takes about 10 minutes for both holes and makes it easy putting it back in. Plug the holes with Dorman firewall plugs.
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It took us about 10 minutes to get the two top tranny bolts in (and about 40" of extension and a piece of masking tape in the socket to hold the bolt on). For me, this was definitely a 2 person job, but it was easier than I thiught.
this is not my first engine job by any means but it sounds like getting the engine out is a bear. I'm trying to help my son in law out by doing the rebuild (water in the cylinders) we have a 1.5 ton rated hydraulic engine hoist to work with. Just how heavy is the engine and transmission? Looking at the manual it sound like the preferred method is to pull them as a unit. its a 93 FZ-FE engine 4.5 liter with over 286,000 miles on it and sucked water into at least one cylinder. I am not sure once its out if it is rebuildable until we get the head off and can check for cracks etc. suggestions are WELCOME!
PS I should introduce myself. I am new on the forum. I've been in and around road racing for years, had a shop rebuilt engines and transmissions (manual) and now teach pipeline gas engine and compressor theory and maintenance at a small college.
David,
You didn’t get any response but curious how it went and did you separate or remove engine and trans as one unit?hope what you found was rebuildable given the water in the cylinders
You didn’t get any response but curious how it went and did you separate or remove engine and trans as one unit?hope what you found was rebuildable given the water in the cylinders
Unfortunately I ran out of time to work on it. The car is in Idaho and I live in NY. Its my son in laws. So we'll continue in the spring. The problem (besides the top transmission bolts) is a large front bumper and winch which prevented me for being able to reach the center of the engine to lift it even if I had gotten the bolts loose. We are looking at renting/buying a gantry style hoist and ramps to get the car high enough for the tail of the transmission to clear the floor and pulling them together. I took dozens of photos of wiring harness and connections plus labeling stuff so we'll know where it all goes.
Not a full write up, but I wrote a blog post detailing some gotchas and some of the process I followed. Engine Rebuild for a 1993 Land Cruiser
Flagstaff: Thanks for your excellent write-up. Say, I'm right at the point of last two transmission bolts in my FZ80 (1996 LX450). I can't see a way forward to remove top two transmission/engine bolts. Seems you have navigated this path. When you say "remove engine mounts" do you mean the bracket(four bolts), metal rubber cover, and rubber mount? That is all of it including the main bracket? I hoisted the engine today and can see in move up but seems like a long way to go to clear the bolt stud. I'm thinking I need to remove everything. Your thoughts?
I'm glad I found this, thank you! I'm in the process of taking the engine out of my '91. Lucky for me, the last person who had the engine out figured that there must be enough of a safety factor that the transmission doesn't really need all the bolts, and left some out that are hard to get to. Only found the bottom 4 and the driver side bolt on top. After not managing to get 4 different wrenches on there from the top (somehow I'm collecting 17mm wrenches now), I went in with the extensions. Socket + U-Joint + 24" extensions, had my breaker bar behind the transmission crossmember. Had to be that far back to have enough range of motion for the breaker bar since those extensions twist a lot. I did NOT drop or lower transmission or engine at all, everything is still attached to their mounts. Now I have to remove the starter and then its time to get the hoistThat's an extensive write up you seek. Not sure ive seen it all spelled out. Probably worth weeding through those threads coming up with your own plan of attack.
Concretejungles writeup in faq may have some hints. A friend and i did a swap last weekend as well. No writeup. Unbolt everything you can find; mechanical and electrical. Take pics and label all the hardware.
Top two trans bolts suck. But two ways to get at them
A) 30" of extension + a wobble and attack from behind the tcase
View attachment 1381331
B) remove motor mounts an lower motor and get at from above between head and firewall
View attachment 1381332
Make sure you get em all before you start yanking and pulling
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those 2' extensions are money.