ENGINE KNOCK ON START UP (2 Viewers)

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It could be any number of things but I don't think your starter needs shimmed. Try higher octane fuel, maybe heavier oil, and lastly it could be something like piston slap, or timing tensioner, etc. Any number of things.
Thanks. Just talked to the LC shop (Cruiser Solutions) in NH that did the engine swap work and I’m just going to bring it up there and let them at it. Figured I try and get smarter before doing that. I’ll also make sure they put on an OEM Toyota oil filter.
 
If it's white, it's not right.

WIX filters are known to kill these engines.
Napa gold are the same.

Swap it out ASAP.

Don't even need to drain the oil.
I've switched to the Motorcraft FL-1A, its a large size filter and received excellent ratings in Rat540's testing. Totally agree on the avoid WIX/NAPA at all costs.

 
Update on where I’m at now, oem Toyota filter and thicker oil put in. This did take the knock down to a solid 2 seconds after start up instead of 3 seconds long. I did get some oil that I will have tested. Also new belts installed that the previous owner had run on the inside of the pulley instead of the outside.
 
Update on where I’m at now, oem Toyota filter and thicker oil put in. This did take the knock down to a solid 2 seconds after start up instead of 3 seconds long. I did get some oil that I will have tested. Also new belts installed that the previous owner had run on the inside of the pulley instead of the outside.
What oil are you running, I run 0w-40. Also fill up with higher octane.
 
@Miller605, Ok so the truck has 150k and the head work was done at 145k by previous owner. Just to clarify, you said the sound started after the head work was done so you bought the truck and drove for 5k miles in the last year while this noise was present.

What is prompting you to now decide something is wrong? I am not trying to be confrontational but your previous posts are not clear to me. Also, thank you for the video but without being there I am not sure anyone can determine what is wrong. Also note that responses will be educated guesses from peoples past experiences.

Does the noise only occur on the first initial cold start or will it do it every time you start?
 
@Miller605, Ok so the truck has 150k and the head work was done at 145k by previous owner. Just to clarify, you said the sound started after the head work was done so you bought the truck and drove for 5k miles in the last year while this noise was present.

What is prompting you to now decide something is wrong? I am not trying to be confrontational but your previous posts are not clear to me. Also, thank you for the video but without being there I am not sure anyone can determine what is wrong. Also note that responses will be educated guesses from peoples past experiences.

Does the noise only occur on the first initial cold start or will it do it every time you start?
The previous owner had the headwork done a few months later it developed the knock. He was done with it and sold it to me. I have probably put 3k miles on it since I have bought it and the knock sound being present every time you start it. When the motor is warmed up the sound is a lot let noticeable.
 
This is another video, it’s a very short knock right as it starts then it’s gone. Like I said earlier the correct oil filter and thicker oil helped.
 
Ok, have you tried to pin point the noise with a stethoscope (or long handle tool). I am wondering if it is not at the front of the motor and not internal. If you listen with a tool you can determine the location and work from there.
 
Ok, have you tried to pin point the noise with a stethoscope (or long handle tool). I am wondering if it is not at the front of the motor and not internal. If you listen with a tool you can determine the location and work from there.
I haven't yet because i don't have on of those tools. the one guy that looked at it in person said it sounded like a rod bearing knock that as soon as the oil pressure was up the knock would go away. my water pump does have a little bit of a tick sound running all the time.
 
@Miller605 Personally, the first thing I'd do is remove all of the belts and pull the power steering pump out far enough that it doesn't engage. That will tell you if it's actually something in the engine or if it's an accessory. Obviously, don't run it like this for long.

What does your oil gauge show right at startup and after it's warm?
 
@Miller605 Personally, the first thing I'd do is remove all of the belts and pull the power steering pump out far enough that it doesn't engage. That will tell you if it's actually something in the engine or if it's an accessory. Obviously, don't run it like this for long.

What does your oil gauge show right at startup and after it's warm?
oil gauge reads higher when starting up then comes down to normal when warmed up
 
I haven't yet because i don't have on of those tools. the one guy that looked at it in person said it sounded like a rod bearing knock that as soon as the oil pressure was up the knock would go away. my water pump does have a little bit of a tick sound running all the time.
You can use a long screwdriver, breaker bar or the like, just something that will enhance the sound. You can place the "tool" around the engine and listen for the noise (place your ear on the end of the tool to listen). As @gummycarbs eluded to is it may not be the engine, when I listened to the second video I felt as though it might also be coming from the accessories hence asking to verify location of the sound.
 
This is another video, it’s a very short knock right as it starts then it’s gone. Like I said earlier the correct oil filter and thicker oil helped.

That sounds like the normal start-up engine rattle these have.

It can be oil filter related.

I may suggest you do an oil filter adapter to the Ford 90 degree adapter and use the small YZZD3 Toyota filter in conjunction with it.

This stops the drain down of the filter when it shuts down and helps reduce the noise at startup.

There are pros and cons here, but it may be worth a try.

 
Thanks. Just talked to the LC shop (Cruiser Solutions) in NH that did the engine swap work and I’m just going to bring it up there and let them at it. Figured I try and get smarter before doing that. I’ll also make sure they put on an OEM Toyota oil filter.
Also see the link I attached in the above post.

I think this can apply to yours as well, but I'll admit yours sounds nastier than @Miller605
 
You can use a long screwdriver, breaker bar or the like, just something that will enhance the sound. You can place the "tool" around the engine and listen for the noise (place your ear on the end of the tool to listen). As @gummycarbs eluded to is it may not be the engine, when I listened to the second video I felt as though it might also be coming from the accessories hence asking to verify location of the sound.
Oooh, I hope I didn’t screw up this post. I am sorry if I did. I posted here about my own knocking issue, thinking that I did not want to annoy those who help with a new thread for a similar issue. I am the one who posted the hyperlink to 2 videos. I don’t believe the person who originally asked the question posted two videos. Again, I am sorry if a FUBARd things.
 
Oooh, I hope I didn’t screw up this post. I am sorry if I did. I posted here about my own knocking issue, thinking that I did not want to annoy those who help with a new thread for a similar issue. I am the one who posted the hyperlink to 2 videos. I don’t believe the person who originally asked the question posted two videos. Again, I am sorry if a FUBARd things.
your good! I posted two videos to see what people could hear. hopefully you are getting good information from this thread to!
 
I am now running a 10w30

This is the “thicker” oil? What were you using before?

Could always get an oil sample but if thicker oil helped then it sounds like a rod bearing which could in time lead to a larger issue. You could consider going to a 0w to help get oil into critical places faster at startup.
 
This is the “thicker” oil? What were you using before?

Could always get an oil sample but if thicker oil helped then it sounds like a rod bearing which could in time lead to a larger issue. You could consider going to a 0w to help get oil into critical places faster at startup.
I was running 5w30 oil
 

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