ENGINE KNOCK ON START UP (2 Viewers)

[clx16]

Couple things come to mind but I agree with the previous advice given.. 1st. if your water pump has play, replace it with a toyota or Aisin. Needs to happen anyway and will eliminate that. Also gets to you to a point where you can start it without the belts on... 2nd noise developed after head gasket... would consider checking pulling the valve cover and checking gaps...

Your timing chain tensioner uses oil pressure... so could be it also.

There is never a good reason to run a crappy oil filter (the good ones are NOT expensive). I would run an old filter again before I would risk a bad filter.

 

[largeone]

Are you parking nose down at all, even slightly? There have been other threads about a knock when parked nose down. Mine does it if I back into my driveway. But if it does it all the time, no matter how you park...disregard my comment.

 

[Miller605]

Are you parking nose down at all, even slightly? There have been other threads about a knock when parked nose down. Mine does it if I back into my driveway. But if it does it all the time, no matter how you park...disregard my comment.

It does it all the time

 

[PappyVan20]

I posted access to to other cold starts, but got a good one this morning.

One mechanic who heard this suggested looking at the timing chain tensioner.

We are going to also perform oil change and put on a Toyota oil filter.

I dropped the truck off today at Cruiser Solutions in NH and Moe is a great mechanic and will get to the bottom of it. I will let people know what he discovers when he performs cold start tomorrow am. Otherwise, the refurbished engine sounds great. He really revved it up when he took a quick glance today.

 

[JoeCova]

I posted access to to other cold starts, but got a good one this morning.

One mechanic who heard this suggested looking at the timing chain tensioner.

We are going to also perform oil change and put on a Toyota oil filter.

I dropped the truck off today at Cruiser Solutions in NH and Moe is a great mechanic and will get to the bottom of it. I will let people know what he discovers when he performs cold start tomorrow am. Otherwise, the refurbished engine sounds great. He really revved it up when he took a quick glance today.

Rebuilt engine shouldn’t have knock. Curious what he finds.

 

[Cope]

I'm in a very similar situation. Engine rebuilt about 12k ago (by PO) and have the same knock on start up. I use the YZZD3 filter and 5w-30.

 

[Kernal]

I love this:
"He really revved it up when he took a quick glance today."
(waiting for the boom or trying to cause the boom )


Either way, it's already been said earlier in the thread:

Use a Toyota filter
Switch to a heavier weight oil if you can (depending on outside air temps)
5W-30 is probably too light a viscosity for the 1FZFE, especially once it gets some miles on it.
Add a 90 degree oil filter adapter so the oil filter stays full which results in quicker oil flow to the timing chain tensioner
Check the timing chain tensioner to see if it's gummed up and clean it

IME the tensioner's rarely get gummed/sludged up unless the engine has really been abused with cheapo oil and long drain intervals but it may be worth the effort to pull it. You only have to remove two 12mm nuts to pull the tensioner out and clean it up (well) with Carb cleaner, re-oil and reinstall with a new metal gasket. I took mine completely apart, lightly cleaned the piston with 4.-0 steel wool, re-assembled with a Moly paste, FWIW.

This thread shows how it works, basically oil from an oil galley pressurizes
the tensioner pushing the piston out which takes up the slack on the timing chain.

Once on the linked page scroll up for the photos:

Servicing 1996 FZJ-80 timing chain tensioner

Not hard core tech but thought I'd share the photos. Today I pulled the timing chain tensioner from my 1996 FZJ80 for inspection and cleaning, I used a new metal gasket (13552-66010) when reinstalling. Only tools needed were a ratchet handle, 4-6" extension, 12mm socket (3/8" drive), and a...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[PappyVan20]

Rebuilt engine shouldn’t have knock. Curious what he finds.

Yeah, that’s what I think too, and why I brought it back to the shop that did the work. They use some well known refurb shop in Oregon (I’d have to go back to my paperwork to see who it specifically is). Engine has 2 year warranty. If there is an issue, I hope they honor the warranty.

 

[Miller605]

I posted access to to other cold starts, but got a good one this morning.

One mechanic who heard this suggested looking at the timing chain tensioner.

We are going to also perform oil change and put on a Toyota oil filter.

I dropped the truck off today at Cruiser Solutions in NH and Moe is a great mechanic and will get to the bottom of it. I will let people know what he discovers when he performs cold start tomorrow am. Otherwise, the refurbished engine sounds great. He really revved it up when he took a quick glance today.

MINE SOUNDS EXACTLY THE SAME ON START UP! if you get it sorted out definitely let me know what it was!

 

[sbman]

One thing no one has mentioned is making sure the crank bolt is properly tightened to the spec which is something like 300 ft/lbs. The oil pump is driven by the clamping force of this bolt. Probably not your issue but would be fairly easy to check and rule out.

 

[PappyVan20]

Truck is ready from shop. They said Toyota filter fixed problem. Phew.

But, calipers and brake pads were done (and I had them put 100 series pads on front per threads on that opportunity to improve braking incrementally). Also had drive shaft rebalanced. Wife won’t be happy with yet another repair.

 

[Miller605]

Truck is ready from shop. They said Toyota filter fixed problem. Phew.

But, calipers and brake pads were done (and I had them put 100 series pads on front per threads on that opportunity to improve braking incrementally). Also had drive shaft rebalanced. Wife won’t be happy with yet another repair.

I swapped my filter out for a Toyota one and also went thicker oil and still have that same noise you did

 

[Kernal]

@Miller605

As discussed earlier in the thread, pull/check/clean the tensioner and/or get a 90 degree oil filter to see if either makes a difference.

Post up a video of the noise, maybe start a new thread.
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@PappyVan20 : What problems were you having with the driveshaft and how had it been serviced (greased regularly?)?

What exactly did the shop do to the shaft, just balanced with new weights, new U-joints (?OEM) or?? Did the original weights fall off or?? How did it become unbalanced??

 

[PappyVan20]

Are you parking nose down at all, even slightly? There have been other threads about a knock when parked nose down. Mine does it if I back into my driveway. But if it does it all the time, no matter how you park...disregard my comment.

Weirdly - does it more nose up.

 

[PappyVan20]

@Miller605

As discussed earlier in the thread, pull/check/clean the tensioner and/or get a 90 degree oil filter to see if either makes a difference.

Post up a video of the noise, maybe start a new thread.
--------------------------------------------------------------


@PappyVan20 : What problems were you having with the driveshaft and how had it been serviced (greased regularly?)?

What exactly did the shop do to the shaft, just balanced with new weights, new U-joints (?OEM) or?? Did the original weights fall off or?? How did it become unbalanced??

Was sent out for rebalancing. That fixed one of the vibrations at 50-55 mph. Shop said ujoints were fine. Before I rebuilt suspension and added 2.5” OME, I got hung up on stump, and I suspect that had something to do with issue.

 

[PappyVan20]

Soooo, the clicketty grating nose is much less prominent but still there - and now even happens after cold start.

So may need to check into other suggestions mentioned in this thread.

And, while the rebalancing made a huge difference re vibration at 50-55 (happened when you let off gas), there is a second issue that still causes a bit of of a “grrrrrrr” noise when applying pressure on gas at 50-55 mph when in 4th gear.

In addition, I now hear slight knocking for just a second or two when accelerating - especially up hill.

I may post separately about each of those issues if mechanic can’t get to bottom of those issues.

I am obsessing - well because I obsess re nosies that should be there - but especially in light I spent boo kooo bucks on refurbished engine and as prices plummet for our beloved 80s. Good thing I’m not selling.

 

[clx16]

Couple things to thunk about. Check... how is your transmission fluid level when hot and running and what is your timing set to?

 

[PappyVan20]

Couple things to thunk about. Check... how is your transmission fluid level when hot and running and what is your timing set to?

Thanks for reply, I don’t know. I will have that checked. I’m not auto mechanically inclined to answer quickly.

 

[Kernal]

@PappyVan20 IME a ticking or "sewing machine" sound can be considered normal (to a point) for this engine at idle. If very loud could be the valves may not have been shimmed correctly when they reassembled the engine

If there's a knocking/pinging under load it could be a few things.
Are there are engine codes (check engine light on?)?
Have you checked the timing?
Have you tried a different brand of gasoline/petrol?
Is the engine overheating?
What viscosity oil are you using?

If still in warranty take it to the shop that did the work. If not, find a good shop, preferably one who works on this model.

 

[PappyVan20]

@PappyVan20 IME a ticking or "sewing machine" sound can be considered normal (to a point) for this engine at idle. If very loud could be the valves may not have been shimmed correctly when they reassembled the engine

If there's a knocking/pinging under load it could be a few things.
Are there are engine codes (check engine light on?)?
Have you checked the timing?
Have you tried a different brand of gasoline/petrol?
Is the engine overheating?
What viscosity oil are you using?

If still in warranty take it to the shop that did the work. If not, find a good shop, preferably one who works on this model.

Thanks for the response:

No engine lights
Haven’t checked timing
Re Fuel: Yes to different brands, but only using 87 octane.
Not overheating
Using factory recommended oil (not thicker as some have suggested)

I found another 4X4 shop who specializes in Land Rovers (but also says they know LCs). I can ask them about whether “clicking” is too loud and thus possibly indicative of improperly shimmed valves.

I may have to go back to Cruiser Solutions in NH, but it is an hour plus away.