You'd be amazed at the great lengths people go to make sure everyone else knows that they lived in Hawaii for 6 months....
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (77 Viewers)
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You'd be amazed at the great lengths people go to make sure everyone else knows that they lived in Hawaii for 6 months....
Did the paracord steering wheel wrap. 100ft. of 550 black, here is where I bought mine:
Amazon.com : Paracord Planet Type III 7 Strand 550 Paracord : Tactical Paracords : Sports & Outdoors
Here is the video I watched that made it easy:
Also installed the recommended Pioneer speakers and a Pioneer stereo with a friend. Going to tackle the rear doors later, for now just front speakers. Better than nothing! Oh and wired everything for a amp & subs for when I do my drawers. And a CB radio behind the center console. YAY!
Amazon.com : Paracord Planet Type III 7 Strand 550 Paracord : Tactical Paracords : Sports & Outdoors
Here is the video I watched that made it easy:
Also installed the recommended Pioneer speakers and a Pioneer stereo with a friend. Going to tackle the rear doors later, for now just front speakers. Better than nothing! Oh and wired everything for a amp & subs for when I do my drawers. And a CB radio behind the center console. YAY!
yeah i just needed to slap something on quick. My hands would literally become glued to the steering wheel after holding for a few minutes. GROSS. And the nice thing is it'll pull right off if you need it. Takes a little bit to put on, my hands are raw. Never had a blister on my pinker finger before...
Mounted my spare wheels/tires(295 Nittos/Procomp wheels) for my 4runner on the stock LX today. Wanted to see how aftermarket wheels would look on it. Probably go back with the stock rims and 315s once I decide on which lift I want.
Installed a retractable air hose for working on the 80's & 40's!
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
Hour 30 of the head gasket/timing chain slipper job.
Started a thread for it...
Should have;
A) Degreased and pressure washed the bottom of the truck.
B) Put the truck on the hoist
C) Not assumed that all the work was going to be on the top side of the engine...
Sheesh, I'd like to smack a few Toyota engineers right about now.
Current state:
Head off, pans off, next up crank pulley and timing chain cover...
Started a thread for it...
Should have;
A) Degreased and pressure washed the bottom of the truck.
B) Put the truck on the hoist
C) Not assumed that all the work was going to be on the top side of the engine...
Sheesh, I'd like to smack a few Toyota engineers right about now.
Current state:
Head off, pans off, next up crank pulley and timing chain cover...
Did you install these or did you have a shop do it? Looks like Lseat is the route I will be taking for sure.
I got a buddy who owns a Upholstery shop who did them cheap. I researched about doing it myself and the front seats dont look real hard to do at all. Installation of replacement leather
If you decide to not tackle the job you could save some money by taking the seats apart and letting a upholstery shop put them on.
Today I installed the ARB snorkel. (Keywords for search: ARB Safari Snorkel Installation hints tricks FJ80 FZJ80 80 series)
Tools acquired for the job:
-3 5/8 hole saw (saw and arbor purchased from Home Depot)
-cheapo step bit set (Autocraft Part No. AC1060 from Advance Auto)
-Astro 1427 Riv-nut tool (purchased from Amazon)
-stainless rivnuts (purchased from Amazon)
Other tools/materials on hand:
-1/2" chuck corded hammer drill
-Metric socket set with extensions
-automatic center punch
-touch up spray paint and primer (I had another color of red...it was close enough for something that will never be seen once the snorkel is in place)
-Locktite blue
-Shin Etsu silicone grease (for the rubber component assemblies)
-Sharpie
-set of drill bits
-razor blade
-rat tail file
-emery cloth
-scissors
-masking tape
I used M5 stainless metric button head bolts from the hardware store threaded into rivnuts in place of the chintzy screws into plastic inserts in the A-pillar that ARB provides. The top two holes were easy, but the bottom hold required cutting down the rivnut as there's some form of reinforcement behind the skin. I also had to open up the holes in the ARB aluminum bracket with a 1/4 then 5/16 bit to allow the M5 bolts to pass through. In retrospect, simply using the Rivnuts on the top two bolts would've been more than adequate.
My snorkel was date coded 5/16 so it's a later model that didn't need the heating and dimpling to fit around the antenna. I did, however, use a razor blade and trim the rubber trim grommet around the antenna base for a perfectly flush fit.
Hints and key findings to add to the mediocre ARB instruction sheet:
-TRUST THE TEMPLATE! You will have to notch it to accommodate the US antenna. There is no indicator light on US market vehicles so you'll have to index it on the door, hood, and scuttle seams.
-Mark all holes on the fender. Then use and automatic center punch and drill 1/8 pilot holes in all fender marked spots. DO NOT drill the A-pillar at this time.
-Drill the Big Hole. Use a corded 1/2" chuck drill and work slowly with only light pressure. The Big Hole is the index upon which everything else rests.
-it is NOT necessary to drill 16mm holes in the fender for the studs.. Start at about 3/8" and use the step bit to open up the holes just enough for the studs to get through. Smaller is better in this case.
-Once the fender stud holes and big hole are good, bolt the bracket to the upper portion of the snorkel and test fit. Mark the top and bottom of the bracket with a Sharpie. Remove the bracket from the snorkel stack and hold it up to your newly marked top and bottom lines. Mark your holes with sharpie and then punch and drill 1/8" pilot holes. The two bolts that hold the snorkel to the bracket are the last to be tightened.
-It is necessary to unbolt the power antenna motor and cruise control units but not disconnect them. The power antenna mast and motor assembly can drop down into the fender once you unbolt the motor and use a set of bent nose pliers to unscrew the bezel. It is not necessary to remove or disconnect the antenna cables. You only need to move the motor to get access to the last stud deep in the fender near the firewall.
-Be sure to use primer and touch up paint to prevent rusting around the cut holes
-Clean the holes with a rat tail file and some emery cloth/sandpaper or a Dremel grinding stone.
-Order of tightening operations: 1) bracket to a pillar 2) Big studs 3) small stud 4) snorkel to bracket 5) snorkel to hose (molded numbers facing UP) 6) hose to airbox intake
Holes drilled, primed, and hit with red touch-up paint (which will be hidden behind snorkel)
Bracket detail with button head M5 bolts threaded to riv-nuts
Riv Nuts! Under 30 bucks for this set. It should provide an adequate supply for the rest of my automotive hobby days.
More detail. The button heads provide room where hex or Allen head bolts wouldn't.
End state. Yes, I know my awesome ACC Garage window shade is upside down in the pic.
Tools acquired for the job:
-3 5/8 hole saw (saw and arbor purchased from Home Depot)
-cheapo step bit set (Autocraft Part No. AC1060 from Advance Auto)
-Astro 1427 Riv-nut tool (purchased from Amazon)
-stainless rivnuts (purchased from Amazon)
Other tools/materials on hand:
-1/2" chuck corded hammer drill
-Metric socket set with extensions
-automatic center punch
-touch up spray paint and primer (I had another color of red...it was close enough for something that will never be seen once the snorkel is in place)
-Locktite blue
-Shin Etsu silicone grease (for the rubber component assemblies)
-Sharpie
-set of drill bits
-razor blade
-rat tail file
-emery cloth
-scissors
-masking tape
I used M5 stainless metric button head bolts from the hardware store threaded into rivnuts in place of the chintzy screws into plastic inserts in the A-pillar that ARB provides. The top two holes were easy, but the bottom hold required cutting down the rivnut as there's some form of reinforcement behind the skin. I also had to open up the holes in the ARB aluminum bracket with a 1/4 then 5/16 bit to allow the M5 bolts to pass through. In retrospect, simply using the Rivnuts on the top two bolts would've been more than adequate.
My snorkel was date coded 5/16 so it's a later model that didn't need the heating and dimpling to fit around the antenna. I did, however, use a razor blade and trim the rubber trim grommet around the antenna base for a perfectly flush fit.
Hints and key findings to add to the mediocre ARB instruction sheet:
-TRUST THE TEMPLATE! You will have to notch it to accommodate the US antenna. There is no indicator light on US market vehicles so you'll have to index it on the door, hood, and scuttle seams.
-Mark all holes on the fender. Then use and automatic center punch and drill 1/8 pilot holes in all fender marked spots. DO NOT drill the A-pillar at this time.
-Drill the Big Hole. Use a corded 1/2" chuck drill and work slowly with only light pressure. The Big Hole is the index upon which everything else rests.
-it is NOT necessary to drill 16mm holes in the fender for the studs.. Start at about 3/8" and use the step bit to open up the holes just enough for the studs to get through. Smaller is better in this case.
-Once the fender stud holes and big hole are good, bolt the bracket to the upper portion of the snorkel and test fit. Mark the top and bottom of the bracket with a Sharpie. Remove the bracket from the snorkel stack and hold it up to your newly marked top and bottom lines. Mark your holes with sharpie and then punch and drill 1/8" pilot holes. The two bolts that hold the snorkel to the bracket are the last to be tightened.
-It is necessary to unbolt the power antenna motor and cruise control units but not disconnect them. The power antenna mast and motor assembly can drop down into the fender once you unbolt the motor and use a set of bent nose pliers to unscrew the bezel. It is not necessary to remove or disconnect the antenna cables. You only need to move the motor to get access to the last stud deep in the fender near the firewall.
-Be sure to use primer and touch up paint to prevent rusting around the cut holes
-Clean the holes with a rat tail file and some emery cloth/sandpaper or a Dremel grinding stone.
-Order of tightening operations: 1) bracket to a pillar 2) Big studs 3) small stud 4) snorkel to bracket 5) snorkel to hose (molded numbers facing UP) 6) hose to airbox intake
Holes drilled, primed, and hit with red touch-up paint (which will be hidden behind snorkel)
Bracket detail with button head M5 bolts threaded to riv-nuts
Riv Nuts! Under 30 bucks for this set. It should provide an adequate supply for the rest of my automotive hobby days.
More detail. The button heads provide room where hex or Allen head bolts wouldn't.
End state. Yes, I know my awesome ACC Garage window shade is upside down in the pic.
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Poor heep.
JaketheSSnake
SILVER Star
I should have traded places with him today
. There's only like 5 other land cruisers in the state of Iowa ( @LS1FJ40 owns 2/3 of them ) so I have to roll with the Jeep crews. It was a good time though 
woah, that's beautiful! Where was this taken? I know for sure you guys aren't near Georgetown
I got to try out a RTI ramp. This is basically stock suspension. I have spring spacers to make up for the extra weight. I didn't get to leave the pavement this weekend but this was fun.
Well, kind of a good news bad news day.
The good- got my new falken tires installed yesterday, and took them on a 300 mile round trip to the ski hill today. Skiing was great, tires were excellent on the highway. Really like them so far.
The bad- could be really bad. On the way back, going up a long grade, my oil pressure dropped to almost nothing. Plenty of oil, still getting oil up top, but started knocking. Now knocks under hard acceleration or throttle. Going to dig in to it tomorrow, and start a separate thread, but the expected rebuild may come a lot sooner than I had hoped
The good- got my new falken tires installed yesterday, and took them on a 300 mile round trip to the ski hill today. Skiing was great, tires were excellent on the highway. Really like them so far.
The bad- could be really bad. On the way back, going up a long grade, my oil pressure dropped to almost nothing. Plenty of oil, still getting oil up top, but started knocking. Now knocks under hard acceleration or throttle. Going to dig in to it tomorrow, and start a separate thread, but the expected rebuild may come a lot sooner than I had hoped
Between Sassafras Mountain and Lake Jocassee.woah, that's beautiful! Where was this taken? I know for sure you guys aren't near Georgetown
Well, kind of a good news bad news day.
The good- got my new falken tires installed yesterday, and took them on a 300 mile round trip to the ski hill today. Skiing was great, tires were excellent on the highway. Really like them so far.
The bad- could be really bad. On the way back, going up a long grade, my oil pressure dropped to almost nothing. Plenty of oil, still getting oil up top, but started knocking. Now knocks under hard acceleration or throttle. Going to dig in to it tomorrow, and start a separate thread, but the expected rebuild may come a lot sooner than I had hoped
What did your coolant temps look like?
