Tongue weight must have been substantial on that one...with all that engine in front of the axles.
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Finally got around to put the winch electronics into the box.
Can hopefully connect and test this weekend and then make a bracket to be put behind right side headlamp.
Reason: Apex Badlands Electronics doesn’t fit the Dissent Front Bumper
Box used: https://a.co/d/dL6dvRH
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Driver side wheel bearing, thank god for YouTube. The job took way longer than it should have, I realized my break pads were dust. The squeak is gone and she breaks a lot smoother now. Ordering the rear pads for next week. On a side note, I woke up this morning to the reservoir cap leaking break fluid. I removed the cap while I was compressing the calipers, it could be operator error but has this happened to anyone else? When I noticed the small silver dollar sized spot I opened the hood and noticed my fluid was 1/2 inch above the MaX line. I started her up and the fluid dropped back down to the Max line, again is this normal? Thanks guys.
Driver side wheel bearing, thank god for YouTube. The job took way longer than it should have, I realized my break pads were dust. The squeak is gone and she breaks a lot smoother now. Ordering the rear pads for next week. On a side note, I woke up this morning to the reservoir cap leaking break fluid. I removed the cap while I was compressing the calipers, it could be operator error but has this happened to anyone else? When I noticed the small silver dollar sized spot I opened the hood and noticed my fluid was 1/2 inch above the MaX line. I started her up and the fluid dropped back down to the Max line, again is this normal? Thanks guys.
Thank you will do! Do I remove when vehicle is on or off?Pull some fluid out. These resi's are hyper sensitive tp fluid level and will continue to leak if the level is too high. System pressure drops when not in use and fluid level rises. It's best to keep the level at about 1/2 from max when driving so it'll stay just under the max line when sitting for any longer than an hour or so.
What airbags are you using in the rear?View attachment 3773685View attachment 3773686
Truck and trailer together weight about 6400 lbs. The old Lex pulled it like a dream! Air bags filled to 30 psi. Back end wasn't bouncy and the front end wasn't floaty at all. 4th gear with the torque converter locked holds speed for most hill, only occasionally needed to drop to 3rd. That keeps the transmission temps low the entire time.
Just visited their site and was unable to find an option for the 100 series. Can you please share your selection?Threw on some CORDURA seat covers from CalTrend which were on sale. Easy to put on and looks a fits pretty good. The first set of headrest covers didn't fit but CalTrend's customer service promptly remedied the issue by sending me replacements. View attachment 3774259
Thank you so much for this. So, I came home from work this morning only to notice a bigger puddle under the car. So I removed a bunch of fluid pictured here, and I pumped the breaks 40 times while the car was off like the reservoir says and it turns out I removed just the right amount because now she sits just under the Max line. When the vehicle is on the fluid drops to just above the Min line. What stumps me is that I don’t recall ever adding fluid, all I did was swap out the pads and compress the calipers to get it back on. Since you’re my break guru can I get away with just swapping out the pads in the rear? It’s 100 for pads and shims vs 340+ with rotors, new pins, boots, and grease. Thanks for your advice .The brake booster accumulator stores pressurized brake fluid in case of ABS activation, and for engine off emergency braking.
When the brake booster accumulator is relieved of pressure, it will increase the fluid level in your brake reservoir by 1 inch or slightly more.
The brake reservoir can hold more than 32 ounces of brake fluid… no need to fill the reservoir more than 1/4” above the minimum line. Overfilling the brake reservoir can, in the event of ABS activation, cause corrosive brake fluid to spill out of the reservoir, and onto electrical connections on the bottom of the brake master cylinder, which WILL cause corrosion of the brake system electrical connections. Also, brake fluid is flammable if spilled onto hot exhaust parts.
Best practice is to keep brake reservoir fluid at a level just above the minimum line… This will allow room for the additional brake fluid from the accumulator into the reservoir if the ABS activates.
Fluid swap/ bleed your brakes with fresh fluid from a sealed container every 2 years. Not to exceed 3 year intervals. Relieve accumulator pressure by pumping the brake pedal 40 times, engine and key off, prior to brake fluid exchange. Always clean with brake cleaner at bleeder screws when done, and make sure to install bleeder caps.
And, as many of the most experienced on this forum have said, genuine Toyota brake fluid contains a polymer lubricant that helps to keep all of the brake pistons and seals in proper condition. Sounds like good, inexpensive advice to help the very expensive brake system live a long and functional life.
Thank you so much for this. So, I came home from work this morning only to notice a bigger puddle under the car. So I removed a bunch of fluid pictured here, and I pumped the breaks 40 times while the car was off like the reservoir says and it turns out I removed just the right amount because now she sits just under the Max line. When the vehicle is on the fluid drops to just above the Min line. What stumps me is that I don’t recall ever adding fluid, all I did was swap out the pads and compress the calipers to get it back on. Since you’re my break guru can I get away with just swapping out the pads in the rear? It’s 100 for pads and shims vs 340+ with rotors, new pins, boots, and grease. Thanks for your advice .
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Installed a Quick Pitch drop down fridge slide. It’s made its way from being made in South Africa > to Red Bear Outdoors in Canada > to me in VA. It’s smooth like
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Thank you so much for this. So, I came home from work this morning only to notice a bigger puddle under the car. So I removed a bunch of fluid pictured here, and I pumped the breaks 40 times while the car was off like the reservoir says and it turns out I removed just the right amount because now she sits just under the Max line. When the vehicle is on the fluid drops to just above the Min line. What stumps me is that I don’t recall ever adding fluid, all I did was swap out the pads and compress the calipers to get it back on. Since you’re my break guru can I get away with just swapping out the pads in the rear? It’s 100 for pads and shims vs 340+ with rotors, new pins, boots, and grease. Thanks for your advice .
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The fridge is ~60 lbs which is the equivalent of a yeti + ice of similar capacity. Slide is another 60. A non-tilting fridge slide is probably almost 35 and a tilting is a bit more. With a tilting design you have to lift a lot of the weight—fine for me but not for my kids or wife. Also, with a drop vs tilt you avoid everything falling over/sliding around in the fridgethat is really nice, but I can't help wondering what that setup weighs?
I put some dish soap in a spray bottle and got as much as I could. Wiped as much as my hands would let me reach.When you compressed the pads to installed the new ones, it forced more fluid from the piston into the brake line and back to the reservoir. That is what caused the overfill condition. Most recommend removing some fluid when doing a brake pad change so it doesn’t overflow. Be sure to rinse the area well, brake fluid is corrosive.
I’ll give it a day or so, leaving for Sedona AZ next week and would like to have them in by the weekend. 24 year old parts need to be ordered around here. I also got an e-mail from Prinsu saying my rack is on its wayIf your going with OEM parts I'd wait a few days as I'd wager we'll see another 20-25% off sale here shortly for black friday