What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (47 Viewers)

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I'm really interested to hear your feedback. I have EBC on my sequoia and they are good, but definitely dusty.
I’ve had OEM pads before and I liked it, it’s glassy smooth, quiet and doesn’t give out a ton of brake dust unlike the Green Stuff. I went for the EBC Green Stuff when I replaced the rotors 4 yrs ago with the EBC slotted-dimpled ones and just kind of matched it and gave it a try and been cleaning my wheels every 100 miles :rofl:
 
Got a free wash 🙂

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My fuel pump died suddenly, without any prior indication! This was an OEM unit installed just 2 years and 20k miles ago!
Came back from a 300 mile ride and parked it in the garage and the next morning it cranked but didn't start. Fuel pump tested bad (infinite resistance between terminals).
Ordered a Bosch unit from eBay but the plug was wrong kind so decided to buy another OEM unit at $316 plus tax.
Easy, 30 minute job to swap and all is well in the cruiser world!
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Finally got the truck back after getting an extensive amount of work done:
  • New front LCA's + #2bushing
  • Replaced the tired OME Nitrochargers with Dobinsons IMS
  • Replaced E-brake cabling
  • Install new hardware for the Slee Steel Belly Skid Plate
  • Replace the bearings and seals on the Slee Swingout
  • Oil Change
  • Driveline Lube
  • Alignment
Replacing the original OEM LCA's was the final stage of replacing every old, original and very worn out rubber bushing on the bottom of the truck as well as the engine and trans mounts. It feels like she drives like a brand new truck would have.

Here's what the OME Nitrochargers look like after about 50k hard miles:

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Don't have a lot to say about the Dobinsons IMS setup yet but anything would be better after seeing the state of these old Emu's.
 
Went to the base today and got her on a lift. This is an Ohio truck, my wife is original owner, less than 100k miles. Now in Florida.

Bad: muffler is gone, gas tank shield is gone, front engine ‘guard’ is close to gone.

Good, after scraping appears only surface rust on frame and welded supports (crossmembers may need replaced someday), brake lines looked good.

After all the scraping, did what I could laying on the ground with some rust converter. Will likely become a semi annual maintenance check item as well.

Regardless, frame seems good (knock on wood), time to start replacing every bushing/hose/rubber piece I can find, moly the drive shaft, get some steel tundra wheels….and on and on and on….!

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Went to the base today and got her on a lift. This is an Ohio truck, my wife is original owner, less than 100k miles. Now in Florida.

Bad: muffler is gone, gas tank shield is gone, front engine ‘guard’ is close to gone.

Good, after scraping appears only surface rust on frame and welded supports (crossmembers may need replaced someday), brake lines looked good.

After all the scraping, did what I could laying on the ground with some rust converter. Will likely become a semi annual maintenance check item as well.

Regardless, frame seems good (knock on wood), time to start replacing every bushing/hose/rubber piece I can find, moly the drive shaft, get some steel tundra wheels….and on and on and on….!

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Part number for the front engine skid shield? Is it 51410-60020?
 
Yep, that's it.

It's worth mentioning that for the same price you can get an Asfir skid that is 1/4" aluminum and considerably more substantial than the stamped sheet metal factory one.
Thanks, I did see a thread on those but haven’t had a chance to dig into it.
 
I finally got the chance to work on the oil leak I first saw around 6 weeks ago which I thought was from the oil filter being loose. Turns out the culprit was the oil cooler o-ring seal.
• Oil Cooler o-ring seal - OEM part # 90301-67004.
• Oil-Coolant crossover figure-8 seal - OEM part # 15692-50020.

Flat and brittle.
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Now installed and while at it, I maximized my ultrasonic clearer. Sanded all the spots with oil stains and wire brushed the exterior of the components.
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Right after I was done with this project I did a full fluid exchange and used a total of 15 gallons of 5W30 mineral oil until the oil coming out of the drain was as clear as the new one I put in, thank you Fumoto drain valve!
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All buttoned up, torqued-to-spec and leak-free.

Did some resto work on the front brake calipers, wire-brush + metal polish cream when I replaced the pads I used Adams Iron remover spray to clean/prep it, worked like a charm.
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Detailed the engine bay as well using different degreasers and cleaners including aluminum cleaners, this stripped all aluminum lines from any oil stain. Also used Si2 based undercarriage spray from Adam’s for the finishing touch, love the dry-to-touch finish and the smell.
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Top OEM plastic intake manifold cover will go in tomorrow, tired as a dog.

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Started her up after almost a month of hiatus, ran it for 30 mins and no more leak! And I love that purr all over again. I think I’ll drive the honda tomorrow :rofl:
 
I finally got the chance to work on the oil leak I first saw around 6 weeks ago which I thought was from the oil filter being loose. Turns out the culprit was the oil cooler o-ring seal.
• Oil Cooler o-ring seal - OEM part # 90301-67004.
• Oil-Coolant crossover figure-8 seal - OEM part # 15692-50020.

Flat and brittle.
View attachment 3258520

Now installed and while at it, I maximized my ultrasonic clearer. Sanded all the spots with oil stains and wire brushed the exterior of the components.
View attachment 3258521

Right after I was done with this project I did a full fluid exchange and used a total of 15 gallons of 5W30 mineral oil until the oil coming out of the drain was as clear as the new one I put in, thank you Fumoto drain valve!
View attachment 3258527
All buttoned up, torqued-to-spec and leak-free.

Did some resto work on the front brake calipers, wire-brush + metal polish cream when I replaced the pads I used Adams Iron remover spray to clean/prep it, worked like a charm.
View attachment 3258522

Detailed the engine bay as well using different degreasers and cleaners including aluminum cleaners, this stripped all aluminum lines from any oil stain. Also used Si2 based undercarriage spray from Adam’s for the finishing touch, love the dry-to-touch finish and the smell.
View attachment 3258526
Top OEM plastic intake manifold cover will go in tomorrow, tired as a dog.

View attachment 3258543

Started her up after almost a month of hiatus, ran it for 30 mins and no more leak! And I love that purr all over again. I think I’ll drive the honda tomorrow :rofl:
Nicely done!
I thought the oil cooler leaks were very specific to BMWs!
 
This week reminded me why I am thankful for my 01 LX470 due to crappy No. Iowa winter weather.

I slept in her one night (comfortably) with heated seats keeping my behind nice and toasty, when the 60 mph wind didn't shake me out of my slumber.

So I gave her a carwash to rinse off the ice removing road material before getting the KO2's rotated and balanced. .

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