I'm really interested to hear your feedback. I have EBC on my sequoia and they are good, but definitely dusty.
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I’ve had OEM pads before and I liked it, it’s glassy smooth, quiet and doesn’t give out a ton of brake dust unlike the Green Stuff. I went for the EBC Green Stuff when I replaced the rotors 4 yrs ago with the EBC slotted-dimpled ones and just kind of matched it and gave it a try and been cleaning my wheels every 100 milesI'm really interested to hear your feedback. I have EBC on my sequoia and they are good, but definitely dusty.
Nice trailer!!!!Went with DuroBumps in the rear position and got out to Anza-Borrego.
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EvoCorse Dakar Zero's with Nitto Ridge Grapplers. They are surprisingly quiet for the tread pattern.Looks good! What wheels and tires are you running?
Went with DuroBumps in the rear position and got out to Anza-Borrego.
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Went to the base today and got her on a lift. This is an Ohio truck, my wife is original owner, less than 100k miles. Now in Florida.
Bad: muffler is gone, gas tank shield is gone, front engine ‘guard’ is close to gone.
Good, after scraping appears only surface rust on frame and welded supports (crossmembers may need replaced someday), brake lines looked good.
After all the scraping, did what I could laying on the ground with some rust converter. Will likely become a semi annual maintenance check item as well.
Regardless, frame seems good (knock on wood), time to start replacing every bushing/hose/rubber piece I can find, moly the drive shaft, get some steel tundra wheels….and on and on and on….!
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Yep, that's it.Part number for the front engine skid shield? Is it 51410-60020?
Thanks, I did see a thread on those but haven’t had a chance to dig into it.Yep, that's it.
It's worth mentioning that for the same price you can get an Asfir skid that is 1/4" aluminum and considerably more substantial than the stamped sheet metal factory one.
Nicely done!I finally got the chance to work on the oil leak I first saw around 6 weeks ago which I thought was from the oil filter being loose. Turns out the culprit was the oil cooler o-ring seal.
• Oil Cooler o-ring seal - OEM part # 90301-67004.
• Oil-Coolant crossover figure-8 seal - OEM part # 15692-50020.
Flat and brittle.
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Now installed and while at it, I maximized my ultrasonic clearer. Sanded all the spots with oil stains and wire brushed the exterior of the components.
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Right after I was done with this project I did a full fluid exchange and used a total of 15 gallons of 5W30 mineral oil until the oil coming out of the drain was as clear as the new one I put in, thank you Fumoto drain valve!
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All buttoned up, torqued-to-spec and leak-free.
Did some resto work on the front brake calipers, wire-brush + metal polish cream when I replaced the pads I used Adams Iron remover spray to clean/prep it, worked like a charm.
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Detailed the engine bay as well using different degreasers and cleaners including aluminum cleaners, this stripped all aluminum lines from any oil stain. Also used Si2 based undercarriage spray from Adam’s for the finishing touch, love the dry-to-touch finish and the smell.
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Top OEM plastic intake manifold cover will go in tomorrow, tired as a dog.
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Started her up after almost a month of hiatus, ran it for 30 mins and no more leak! And I love that purr all over again. I think I’ll drive the honda tomorrow![]()
I appreciate it, hopefully that fixes the leak.Nicely done!
I thought the oil cooler leaks were very specific to BMWs!