What did you do on your 70 series today? (40 Viewers)

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Not what I did on my 7* series, but more what I did with it...Public Service Announcement, make sure your truck is in neutral before starting it from the outside.

If it wasn't preheated with the coolant heater, my fence may have survived. As it was plugged in, the damn thing fires to life in about a half a second. Good thing I used steel posts and set them in concrete, otherwise it may have kept going through my backyard with me hanging out the door or chasing after it. It lurched forward the few feet, hit the post and died.

I was on my way to the ski hill for a few icy turns, changed my plans immediately, took this as a 'sign from a higher power' that I should stay home. Maybe work on some projects. Maybe fix the fence before my wife gets up.
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Merry Xmas everyone.

Guess I need to investigate adding a neutral safety switch.

Like it never happened. I had one leftover piece of cedar long enough to replace the one broken piece.


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Hello,

Been there, done that.

Thankfully, it was your fence, not a pedestrian or the neighbor's car. Yes, there was damage, but it could have been much worse.

As a friend put it, a 70 Series "caress" means destruction or severe damage for anything or anyone on the receiving end.

I hope you all had a Merry Christmas.





Juan
 
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Just got the old, nasty one on the RIGHT rebuilt. It turned out looking absolutely brand new. I was amazed. Sending out to @FJ73Texas shortly.

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Installed a new alternator tonight. The old one was charging great at 28V, but it was starting to get a bit noisy. I might get new bearings installed, or let me know if anyone wants it.

The new alternators need an oval plug to round plug adapter.

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What was the noise like? Was it a whine that lasted only a couple seconds upon startup? I notice that noise from my engine bay and wondering if it's the alternator.
 
What was the noise like? Was it a whine that lasted only a couple seconds upon startup? I notice that noise from my engine bay and wondering if it's the alternator.
No. The alternator noise was a low growling noise from inside the alternator. Only heard with a mechanics stethoscope. I do this for a living, so I'm fairly proactive.

If you have a cold start whine, it's probably your power steering pump or dirty/low fluid. See if the whining noise gets worse when turning the steering wheel.

If it's more of a cold start loud, short shriek than a whine, it would be a loose belt.
 
It’s at ACC in ATL. It belongs to one of their clients who’s waiting for just the right platform to install it.

It has been waiting years, so the criteria for the platform is not remotely run of the mill.
 
It’s at ACC in ATL. It belongs to one of their clients who’s waiting for just the right platform to install it.
I vote for using a LJ70 frame with a lightweight German made fiberglass FJ40 body kit on it , probably not to the taste of most gringo's but it sure would be bad ass and very fun to drive .
 
That would be correct.

I apparently have some of that @OGBeno in me…. I look at all the “restored” cruiser engines and the first thing I look at and point and yell “worm gear! Worm gear!” In anger :rofl:

Ignoring the few worm gear clamps on mine :doh: It’s on the list to replace…someday….I swear.
 
I apparently have some of that @OGBeno in me…. I look at all the “restored” cruiser engines and the first thing I look at and point and yell “worm gear! Worm gear!” In anger :rofl:

Ignoring the few worm gear clamps on mine :doh: It’s on the list to replace…someday….I swear.

Hello,

Experience has taught me to avoid worm gear clamps like the plague. Too much brute force to make them work/seal properly, too much of a chance to break the stuff they are used in.







Juan
 
Hello,

Experience has taught me to avoid worm gear clamps like the plague. Too much brute force to make them work/seal properly, too much of a chance to break the stuff they are used in.







Juan

In the marine world these AWAB 316 stainless clamps are used all the time, kind of one step below a stainless t-bolt, but t-bolts are over kill for many applications. Smooth inner surface and rolled edges, never corrode and I've never had one fail. Or breaks stuff they are used on.

Clamp-N64ES-Euro-Gear.jpeg


I've used these in applications much more severe than the engine bay of a vehicle, and I've used these in my trucks too when the OEM ones looked worn out. I agree those in the engine photo posted above are inferior, but what clamp is correct for the application that has caused so much consternation? Learning experience, so no elitist, smart ass, uninformative responses needed.

But I don't mind smart ass informative answers
 
I like the spring clamps because I can just use pliers (no screwdriver or nutdriver) to take them off as long they are facing in the right direction. Not saying they are better or worse but it is what Toyota does use for factory applications.
 
I like the spring clamps because I can just use pliers (no screwdriver or nutdriver) to take them off as long they are facing in the right direction. Not saying they are better or worse but it is what Toyota does use for factory applications.

Helo,

x2.

I also prefer Toyota bolt clamps (not sure about the name) because they are easier to tighten up.

In my experience, most worm gear clamps leak unless you overtighten them. Maybe the ones I used were not good enough, maybe not. If you tighten up too much, you risk breaking something.





Juan
 
In the marine world these AWAB 316 stainless clamps are used all the time, kind of one step below a stainless t-bolt, but t-bolts are over kill for many applications. Smooth inner surface and rolled edges, never corrode and I've never had one fail. Or breaks stuff they are used on.

View attachment 3203974

I've used these in applications much more severe than the engine bay of a vehicle, and I've used these in my trucks too when the OEM ones looked worn out. I agree those in the engine photo posted above are inferior, but what clamp is correct for the application that has caused so much consternation? Learning experience, so no elitist, smart ass, uninformative responses needed.

But I don't mind smart ass informative answers


i like quality gear style clamps like you posted above,,, although you dont have to go marine, most F.I. gear clamps are good, smooth, rounded edges ect.

i think most of the consternation comes from cheap hose clamps, they not only fail sometimes when overtightened, but they can cut hoses, i'd say a generally neglectful owner has left many a bad taste in several folks mouths

i have a torque wrench driver for quality hose clamps, i think its set to 30inch lbs? works great.

the toyota o.e. type clamp is a double wire clamp with a nut to tighten, as shown on the intake tube in the afformentioned pic, those cut hoses over time as well but normally long after the hose should have been replaced

then theres the newer style o.e. clamps, looks like they may also be represented on the smaller hoses coming out of the tstat housing on the aformentioned pic, ya know, spring type with the two ears.

but the cadillac of hose clamps are heat shrink type, single use, typically high end and racing type stuff, but they sure are nice.

looks like we may have quite the assortment of hardware on this "restored" engine
 
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I apparently have some of that @OGBeno in me…. I look at all the “restored” cruiser engines and the first thing I look at and point and yell “worm gear! Worm gear!” In anger :rofl:

Ignoring the few worm gear clamps on mine :doh: It’s on the list to replace…someday….I swear.

I did cringe a bit with the hose clamps on the turbo pressure side silicone fittings and the fuel filter hose....
aaannnnd the RED injection lines :rolleyes:

but i was trying not to jump all over anyone about it....
little shiit, could just be for the fit up:meh:
 

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