I'm going to look into this for all my cars. Thank you.
Shop and cooling system rant. (1 Viewer)
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- #42
I guess I might as well do the whole timing belt job over again since it will be torn down to that point. Gotta love it. The worst part is, I doubt there was that must savings for me not going OEM to start with, it was just more convenient for the shop because he can have most of this stuff shipped to him the same day, get the vehicle done and move on to the next one.
That is a tough one. I owned my own shop at one time and parts are where the profit is not labor. I used NAPA parts and had good luck, but the quality of all parts in general has declined. OEM parts have no profit, a independent shop gets little to no break on the part and no warranty on labor if the part fails. That is a bummer no win for everyone involved.
If I can translate, you gotta find yourself a Paul.
As I get older I realize how inconvenient top notch maintenance is. I can completely understand the mechanic (and/or yourself) going with the easy button. It's not a good idea, but I understand how most people end up at that option. Most jobs for me now are planned out months in advance and I still count on finding extra work/tasks once it's all torn apart. I'm trying to hold off on my next front end work (axles, control arms, bushings, etc..) until I have a kid-friendly back up car to drive while the 100 is down. Obviously a very first world problem, but annoying none-the-less. Rushing maintenance is no fun for anyone.
Agreed it's a bummer. I feel like you have to seek out someone doing "restoration" work or specify the master tech at a dealer just to get good labor on these (or any non-exotic/luxury car).
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- #45
Ok. I decided to do the job myself. I'll just go back and re-do the whole thing from the start. Got my 73 F250 to get back and forth to work with, clean out the garage and get busy. From all the videos I've watched, it doesn't look like rocket science. I'll let you guys know if I F it up.
Depending on if they can get it in stock again cruiser outfitters has a great deal on the TB/WP kit. I was going to do it when my shop was telling me my 1 year old WP was leaking. It turned out to be the upper radiator hose that they just installed the month before when they did the radiator. Check your upper hose and get a light and look under the intake manifold for coolant before you tear into the TB/WP job.
WorldPac will not carry a full lineup of OEM parts like the dealer would. You can likely find all engine accessories, shocks, brake pads/rotors, etc for sure.
Here is the link for a description of what they do:
Home | WORLDPAC, Inc. | Wholesale Distributor of OE Automotive Parts
WORLDPAC USA | Wholesale Distributor of Original Equipment Automotive Parts
worldpac.com
Going to Toyota is no guarantee that they will use OEM parts in every situation nor a guarantee that they will do all the required work nor taking short cuts to beat flat rate time to complete your job. This depends on the service manager, shop foreman and dealership operating guidelines. The difference might be (if you get a Toyota tech that knows your 20yr old truck) that they’ve done these jobs more than a few times. Taking it to the dealer is oftentimes satisfying a false sense of security.
Very few Toyota dealers inventory any of the parts for our 100 series beyond basic service parts: crush washers, oil filters, coolant, spark plugs, air filter. They order in parts from a regional parts warehouse for the job.
For those that have ordered what is believed to be OEM parts from WorldPac- show (post pictures) of the boxes and parts claimed to be OEM.
Number of points, leak may be from. Very common to see leaks on one or more hoses of oil cooler pipe, on front of engine. Also water inlet at points it attaches to water pump & water bypass joint front. The water cross over pipe small O-ring, coming into back of water pump is another. Water bypass joint to head gasket. Water inlet cap to inlet. Radiator hoses. Old throttle body where hoses connect.Ok. I decided to do the job myself. I'll just go back and re-do the whole thing from the start. Got my 73 F250 to get back and forth to work with, clean out the garage and get busy. From all the videos I've watched, it doesn't look like rocket science. I'll let you guys know if I F it up.
But I too, have redone T-belt jobs, just because I saw to much not as it should be. Each time I did, it has been wroth-wild!
I find; crank wire routed wrong, pulleys reused, nothing torqued, cheap belt, AM water pumps, 10mm hex head tensioner pulley bolt threads not sealed.
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- #51
I was looking it up on Rock Auto. They had an Aisan kit that, I was told they take forever for shiping. They also had one from Dayco which was more expensive??? Lexus in Reno wants over $200 just for the water pump. I'll look at worldpac.com. Thanks. As far as the leak goes, I've looked all over/under the intake with dye and a blacklight and it seems dry, as do the heater T's which are new but O'Rielly's too. Upper and bottom rad hoses appear dry as well. I pulled off both skid plates and looked from underneath, which is where I found the leak, from around the side of the crank pully on the driver's side near the fan bracket. It appears to be pretty significant, but you can't see it looking from the top of the engine bay, and because the coolant was pooling inside the front skid plate, it wasn't leaving any evidence on the ground either.
A. side note. Someone told me that the early 100's used "Green" coolant, not the pink stuff and I probably ate up the gasket sealer using Asian red coolant???
A. side note. Someone told me that the early 100's used "Green" coolant, not the pink stuff and I probably ate up the gasket sealer using Asian red coolant???
Tip for timing belt work: Remove the grille (three small screws) and hood safety catch (two screws). You can lean farther into the engine bay and the catch lever won’t impale you at every moment.Ok. I decided to do the job myself. I'll just go back and re-do the whole thing from the start. Got my 73 F250 to get back and forth to work with, clean out the garage and get busy. From all the videos I've watched, it doesn't look like rocket science. I'll let you guys know if I F it up.
You want the AISIN TKT-021 kit. Summit Racing will ship by 3/3/22, and there are some reputable eBay sellers that have it in-stock.
Coolant on all 100s should be red(ish).
As far as I know our trucks 4.7 use the Red not the pink. Its different from everything ive read. But it definitely wasn't green.
Yup, and the red ends up looking purple once you put in, so there’s that. This is Zerex after a complete flush:
WorldPac does sell OE parts as well. I think this is what you are referring to.
OEM Toyota parts come in packaging stamped with red Toyota Logo and factory part numbers. At least that was the case before I sold my automotive shop.
We had a commercial account with them and had direct access to their inventory through their SpeedDial web app. If I remember right (this was prior to 2014) we had to buy a few thousand dollars of parts each month and maintain that rate month over month to even have a WorldPac account.
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- #57
The only issue that scares me a little is making sure the cams and crank timing don't get out of sync when putting the belt back on. A couple of videos I've watched mention the FSM recommends advancing or retarding the timing 50 deg before installation. I thought that if everything was lined up to TDC on #1 before removing the T belt, it would go back on in the same location? A little confusing
They’ll stay lined up, and if they wander by a tooth or so while the belt is off you can turn them slightly by hand to put them back. The belt itself also has marks on it to ensure it’s installed correctly on all three gears (crank & cams). Plus, once the new belt is installed you confirm placement by turning the crank two turns and re-checking the cam positions.The only issue that scares me a little is making sure the cams and crank timing don't get out of sync when putting the belt back on. A couple of videos I've watched mention the FSM recommends advancing or retarding the timing 50 deg before installation. I thought that if everything was lined up to TDC on #1 before removing the T belt, it would go back on in the same location? A little confusing
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- #59
Thats what I thought. Thanks.
The tensioner is on passener side, so you have to lay the belt, crank to driver cam then water pump, passenger cam and then tensioner to crank. This will ensure there is no slack on the belt.
