SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (25 Viewers)

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I'm getting some Tundra wheels (with the Tundra lugnuts) installed on my 2010 LX570. Do I torque them to the same spec as the original 20" wheels that came with my LX (95ft-lbs I think)?

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For next time, there should be a dial adjustment you can turn with a screwdriver to set the stopping point for the door. Based on the limited pics, it looks like it should have some room left on the track to roll higher.
I was thinking the same thing, but he'd already made it out by then. My garage was the same - prior owners had a small car so the door was set at about 7', though it was an 8' door. I spun the screw on the opener and tested a few times until the door would stop within an inch of the safety stop on the track. I now get about 7'10", which is enough to fit my 7'5" truck in safely.
 
I'm getting some Tundra wheels (with the Tundra lugnuts) installed on my 2010 LX570. Do I torque them to the same spec as the original wheels (95ft-lbs I think)?

View attachment 2693167
Yes, 97 ft lbs for any M14 lug on our cruisers, doesn't matter the wheel
 
I'm getting some Tundra wheels (with the Tundra lugnuts) installed on my 2010 LX570. Do I torque them to the same spec as the original 20" wheels that came with my LX (95ft-lbs I think)?

View attachment 2693167
Yes, same torque. TPMS sensors aren’t correct, so you’ll need the swap them out. At least on mine, they were different.
 
Yes, same torque. TPMS sensors aren’t correct, so you’ll need the swap them out. At least on mine, they were different.
Thanks. I used Denso 550-0103 TPMS Sensors and they synced right up.
 
Hey, my kid just dropped a gobstopper in the buckle area of the rear of the driver seat. Is there a way to access this area to remove it. I ask because it’s 100 degrees right now.
 
Hey, my kid just dropped a gobstopper in the buckle area of the rear of the driver seat. Is there a way to access this area to remove it. I ask because it’s 100 degrees right now.
If you mean the B pillar area, you will need to remove the sill plates of the front and back door then yank on the bottom of the plastic cover. It is not easy to remove.
 
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Taking out the seat is only 4 bolts. I don’t think you can remove the plastic without taking the seat out.
 
I’ve been doing some more technical trails and noticed that the rear mudflaps get hit when I come down off things (like a controlled roll down the backside of a good sized rock that drops straight down, for example). Are people trimming or removing the rear mud flaps to avoid this?
 
I’ve been doing some more technical trails and noticed that the rear mudflaps get hit when I come down off things (like a controlled roll down the backside of a good sized rock that drops straight down, for example). Are people trimming or removing the rear mud flaps to avoid this?
I've removed mine but it's a lot smarter to trim them. If you remove you will get dirt/mud/whatever else flung into the bumper skin which makes cleanup that much longer
 
Anyone else with a 2021 Heritage Edition able to take a picture of their data plate on the inside of the driver's door? I'm away from my truck until mid July because I'm overseas, but searching for travel trailers. Looking for the "no s***" weight that Toyota is saying our trucks Gross Weight is. I'm tracking the Gross Combined Weight Rating is 14,400 lbs.

I know I need to weigh my own individual vehicle on a scale but looking for what Toyota has put on the sticker itself. I've read the towing thread, and definitely don't want to go over 7,000 pounds for a trailer.
 
Not a '21, but maybe a '20 HE will do?

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Thanks brother! That matches the numbers I've seen online. While Toyota lists a curb weight of 5815lbs, with a listed max payload of ~1340lbs (610kg), I'd guess that the weight of just the vehicle with options is a little over 6,000 pounds. That gives me a great starting point, thank you!
 
Mutli question SQOD:

Is crawl control supposed to work with center diff locked? I thought it was.
This past weekend there was a time or 2 I tried to engage it with no luck.

Also, does anyone else here 2foot when they wheel? My cruiser kept cutting power if I was into the throttle and brakes too hard on hills. It would cut power completely. I thought with VSC off and center locked that all traction aids were off and its on me. But traction control still kicked in when I wasn't riding the brakes.

I also had check VCS system on the dash after locking the diff wondering if that caused CC to not work and ATRAC to still be active?
 
Mutli question SQOD:

Is crawl control supposed to work with center diff locked? I thought it was.
This past weekend there was a time or 2 I tried to engage it with no luck.

Also, does anyone else here 2foot when they wheel? My cruiser kept cutting power if I was into the throttle and brakes too hard on hills. It would cut power completely. I thought with VSC off and center locked that all traction aids were off and its on me. But traction control still kicked in when I wasn't riding the brakes.

I also had check VCS system on the dash after locking the diff wondering if that caused CC to not work and ATRAC to still be active?
Yes, even with all of the traction aids turned off it still limits RPMs.

I was at an offroad training event this last weekend and one of the exercises we were doing was being stuck in a cross axle situation, and using left foot braking to shift weight and drive out of it. I had all of the electronic aids turned off (part of the training process). The technique involves holding the brake to the floor while increasing up to about 2500 RPMs. Both my land cruiser and several modern 4Runners found that the vehicle limited (cut) RPMs no matter how far you push the skinny pedal.

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Make sure you press and "HOLD" the TRAC button until it illuminates the amber light on the Tach. Very helpful in sand.
 
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Make you you press and "HOLD" the TRAC button until it illuminates the amber light on the Tach. Very helpful in sand.
Yup, 4lo, VSC off, CRAWL off, RSCA off. I turned off everything I could think of.
 

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