Review: Delta VS Panhard Lift Bracket (1 Viewer)

[Delta VS]

I just finished the install last night. I suppose a 4” bracket would have netted me a straight vertical Panhard bar, but my angle looks about the same as everyone.

I installed the newer high clearance version, on a 1997 LX450 so here are my observations.

1. In Japan and other RHD markets, the rear Panhard bar is in a better orientation/direction relative to the front vs LHD markets.

2. I’m running the Dobinson tapered coils and ran into the same issues as the Slinky folks. The track arm bolt is too long and contacts the coil. I cut off about 10mm of the bolt using the stock upper control arm nut as a guide and thread chase. The nut is close, but shouldn’t make contact with the spring. Grinding of the bracket was not required.

3. Ideally, I would prefer to remove the coil spring and install the bolt in the opposite direction for added clearance. However, I didn’t have spring compressors on hand since I usually rent them. Pro Tip: if you own Slinky or Dobinson coils, buy spring compressors. They are cheap.

4. All of the pictures on this thread do not show the spare tire in the stock location. You can work around it, but it does make things a tad more difficult.

5. You will be in an awkward position to apply the necessary 181 foot pounds of torque to cinch down the bolts, so keep that in mind if your upper body strength is limited.

6. The bracket sheared the retaining clips for the ABS wire. Only the outside one can be retained if you unclip it before installing. I didn’t do this, and now it is zip tied to the bracket.

Thanks for the notes!

Only thing I'd like to address is (for anybody who has yet to install), there really is no need for spring compressors if the bolt is touching the spring, the spring should be able to be easily moved out of the way with an appropriately sized stick/prybar/2x4/etc.

 

[tacocat]

Thanks for the notes!

Only thing I'd like to address is (for anybody who has yet to install), there really is no need for spring compressors if the bolt is touching the spring, the spring should be able to be easily moved out of the way with even an appropriately sized stick/prybar/2x4/etc.

Mine do. I removed the lower shock bolt, and used the factory jack to unseat the spring enough to unseat it, and that wasn’t enough. These springs have a massive amount of droop. The fat coil sits right in front of the bolt in my rig.

I’m sure for other coils, they are fine, but these tapered coils are really thick on the lower portion.

 

[Delta VS]

Mine do. I removed the lower shock bolt, and used the factory jack to unseat the spring enough to unseat it, and that wasn’t enough. These springs have a massive amount of droop. The fat coil sits right in front of the bolt in my rig.

I’m sure for other coils, they are fine, but these tapered coils are really thick on the lower portion.

I'm just talking about for getting the bolt in there, not installing/removing springs. What I'm saying is you should be able to move the offending loop of the coil enough to slide the bolt in from the front side by just pushing the spring up or down just a little.

 

[tacocat]

I'm just talking about for getting the bolt in there, not installing/removing springs. What I'm saying is you should be able to move the offending loop of the coil enough to slide the bolt in from the front side by just pushing the spring up or down just a little.

For sure, on most. I couldn’t on mine. They moved a little, but I couldn’t unseat enough to freely rotate. If I cut a 2x4 spacer and used the factory bottle jack, I could have pushed the axle down more perhaps.

Removing the driver side rear tire did make it easier in my case.

 

[DominicanFZJ80]

Just want to add my $0.02 to this conversation as I have recently installed the larger bracket. First of all what I have in the rear:
* Spare Tire Removed and situated on rear swing out
* 42 gallon Aux Fuel tank underneath (even less space to work with than if you have the spare tire up there, which is removable)
* Dobinsons 4" Heavy Single rates installed with 30mm spacer atop

What I did:
* Jacked up truck from tow hitch and secured with jack stands.
* Removed Rear drivers side wheel and let axle droop.
* Un-clipped ABS line, because yes, the bracket will contact
* Upon buttoning everything up, I moved the ABS line to the opposite side: was able to clip in one of the retainers and zip tied the other.
* Yes, the coils were impeding direct install of the bolt.
* Using a pry bar I was able to lift the spring (Dobinsons Heavies! +700lbs over stock rating) enough to feed the bolt in. Threads facing rear of vehicle so that the head of the bolt is at the spring side.
* No contact issues.

Cheers

 

[tacocat]

Update:

Prior to the bracket install, I drove my 80 to the Truckee River on I-80. During that drive, the rig was a little squirrely in the rear, and required a more delicate touch than I preferred. After the install, I drove the 80 from Chico to Lake Almanor via SR 32. That road is slower than the 80, but much more twisty.

The 80 performed exceptionally well. It handled the hairpin turns at speed (say 40 mph in a 25 mph curve), and was competent with evasive lane changes. I expect it to breeze through Donner Pass the next time around. However that highway is much more bumpy and in rough shape vs SR 32 which is smoother, slower, and better maintained.

Overall it was money well spent, and I would recommend this bracket for anyone with a lift.

 

[Delta VS]

Update:

Prior to the bracket install, I drove my 80 to the Truckee River on I-80. During that drive, the rig was a little squirrely in the rear, and required a more delicate touch than I preferred. After the install, I drove the 80 from Chico to Lake Almanor via SR 32. That road is slower than the 80, but much more twisty.

The 80 performed exceptionally well. It handled the hairpin turns at speed (say 40 mph in a 25 mph curve), and was competent with evasive lane changes. I expect it to breeze through Donner Pass the next time around. However that highway is much more bumpy and in rough shape vs SR 32 which is smoother, slower, and better maintained.

Overall it was money well spent, and I would recommend this bracket for anyone with a lift.

Stoked you are happy with the results, thanks for following up.

 

[tacocat]

Stoked you are happy with the results, thanks for following up.

Thanks. I’m going to pull the front drive shaft and see how she drives without it. Prior to that, the rear end had a mind of its own.

Although the Starsky and Hutch rear end whip out on spirited U-turns was amusing.

 

[gonzopancho]

I also have the PLB on my lx450, and I doubt I’ll ever run a lifted 80 chassis without one (and I have a couple projects going on 80-series frames).

Before the PLB the rear end was twitchy on OME coils (mild lift). After it was pleasant to drive.

Highly endorsed / recommended.

 

[Schluney]

I installed mine a few months ago and just finished up a 3K plus mile road/wheeling trip. The bracket dramatically improved My trucks drivability with zero downside. Very pleased with the product and Delta

 

[Delta VS]

I also have the PLB on my lx450, and I doubt I’ll ever run a lifted 80 chassis without one (and I have a couple projects going on 80-series frames).

Before the PLB the rear end was twitchy on OME coils (mild lift). After it was pleasant to drive.

Highly endorsed / recommended.

I installed mine a few months ago and just finished up a 3K plus mile road/wheeling trip. The bracket dramatically improved My trucks drivability with zero downside. Very pleased with the product and Delta

Glad y'all are happy with the drivability post install. Firm believer in every lifted rig should have one.

 

[80t0ylc]

@alia176 in your post on page 8 comparing panhard rods, I notice you have airbags installed. When you removed the upper control arm link bolt did you need to deflate bag or remove your spring to get bolt out? Or did supension sag allow bolt to miss coil? I have OME springs and attempted to install PLB earlier today and had to abandon because spring coil blocked bolt removal and I did not want to chance puncturing bag prying on spring with sharp metal instruments. At the time, I didn't think to deflate bag. Will give it another try soon, but am interested how other air bag owners got it done.

Also, has anyone with this PLB and stock exhaust have any contact issues (rod hitting exhaust pipe) when going over bumps? When I was pushing up panhard rod (for clearance) after disco-ing axle end, it looked like it wouldn't take much upward axle movement for rod to hit exhaust pipe. Pics are from earlier this summer, not today.

 

[alia176]

Hey Tom,

I'm trying to recall if the bolt interference with the bag was an issue but it's been a while. When it warms up today, I'll try to remember to crawl underneath and jog my memory. I wonder if I had turned the bolts around to facilitate installation/removal process .

 

[80t0ylc]

@alia176 Thanks, Ali! My big concern is tearing or puncturing air bag. I also have air bags on my F350, but they're different with leaf suspension. I think I'll be ok if I totally deflate bags and let supension sag to the limit when frame is jacked up. I should be able to control sag with a jack under the axle to find a spot where the bolt will miss the coil and with the bag deflated, I'll be able to push it out of the way if necessary.

 

[80t0ylc]

Well, the PLB is installed. Avoiding the air bag was the biggest challenge. Took the rear wheels off to simplify jockying the axle up and down. Turned out to be the best idea because it also gave better view and access to upper control arm as well as better access to axle panhard mount for torqueing bolts. Maybe it was avoiding the aux fuel tank which always seemed in the way, but with the wheels removed, it sure opened it up. With the axle totally sagged, the upper control arm bolt slipped in between the coils. I used a putty knife to protect air bag from being damaged by bolt head while punching it out.

Panhead bolts are now 1/4" from being level compared to approx 2 1/2" difference before install. 1st test drive on highway and through town didn't reveal much difference. But I'll give it some time and some dirt roads and see how it goes.

 

[alia176]

@alia176 Thanks, Ali! My big concern is tearing or puncturing air bag. I also have air bags on my F350, but they're different with leaf suspension. I think I'll be ok if I totally deflate bags and let supension sag to the limit when frame is jacked up. I should be able to control sag with a jack under the axle to find a spot where the bolt will miss the coil and with the bag deflated, I'll be able to push it out of the way if necessary.

apologies for the delay. As I suspected, I turned the UCA bolts around to facilitate the removal and installation. I changed the springs out and didn't re-install the air bags.

The answer to your question about the panhard rod hitting the exhaust during full suspension cycling is no. Mine has never close to making contact.

 

[338Lapua]

Great read through this thread, My rear is a little squirrely so I went ahead and ordered one tonight!! Cant wait to feel the difference !

 

[338Lapua]

Great read through this thread, My rear is a little squirrely so I went ahead and ordered one tonight!! Cant wait to feel the difference !

thank you Delta, this worked amazing!! Night and day difference after driving a few days with it!!

I definitely recommend anyone that lifted their 80 to install this bracket!

 

[lumbee1]

The rear on my 80 was sloppy not squirrelly. The truck felt like it wanted to fall over in overcamber turns. After the bracket turns are much more precise and less anxious but straight line feels a little more squirrelly. I've got used to it and could never go back.

 

[desmocruiser]

I have recently installed the DVS bracket as well and thought I would share my .02.

Fortunately, my truck was pretty well dialed in or at least as much as possible with F&R adjustable Panhard bars front and rear etc. with a the full Slee 4" lift.

Since I already had the adjustable Panhard rear, I left it installed and adjusted to Center the rear after the panhard bracket installation, which I confirmed with a reputable alignment shop.

Like most, I ran into rear spring interference with the upper bolt. Would including an 80 MM bolt in the kit would remedy this? I am currently trying to source a slightly shorter 80mm bolt to find out if there is enough thread to properly lock or will go to the trouble of loosening the spring to turn it around like DVS suggests and has been done by others. My hesitation with switching bolt orientation was due to having the adj rear bar and first confirm rear end orientation/alignment and there was no bracket interference on the trail as 1 or 2 have experienced with the fatter springs, due to removal/adjustment creating an extra step to remove the spring again.

As far as ride and drive, I feel there is some improvement, definitely didn't hurt. A lifted 80 isn't going to be a sports car suddenly. A part of my impression could be due to the fact I was adjusted and dialed in pretty well with what I had and maybe because I have driven lifted 80 series trucks for 15+ years and likely have a mental adjustment programmed in my mind to react to Bumps in the road and in the Twisties!

If I were building another 80 lifted 3-4" and more, I would include or if I was experiencing drive issues consistent with rear panhard geometry after I had all caster etc. In spec this Seems to be a good product to help address.

With 80 series, anytime you can alter the suspension with a lift and find products that help bring it back closer to the prelifted design Toyota intended, you should be happier with the ride and drive. As I have found after a couple of 80 builds, there is some variation with each truck and each one requires some work to find the combination of components that work well together and this is a good addition to the 80 series parts consideration.