I can't find post #193. I only see 19 posts before mine.
Couldn't take it any longer, it was time to take a look under my windshield trim (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter aging fleet
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I can't find post #193. I only see 19 posts before mine.
aging fleet
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #22
Click the link I posted "Just scored a 2007 LC", it will take you to page 10 of that thread, scroll down to post #193.
Sweet! Thanks. That helped a lot.
Any list of the parts needed to fix a bad windshield install? Short story is my 2001 LX was whisper quiet when I first purchased it. Soon after my purchase, my windshield got cracked from a rock when I was going through a divorce. I got a new windshield installed soon after the crack but, it has a lot of wind noise. So I would like to fix it right.
I know the glass install shop used screws because I can see a couple of them under the rubber lip.
I know the glass install shop used screws because I can see a couple of them under the rubber lip.
Bye Bye to The King: Windshield rust repair ++
If I exposed that much bare metal then I would consider using 2k epoxy primer, car restoration specialists are using this stuff to seal the body panels as it sticks like nothing else to bare metal and is very durable plus it is waterproof. I used this as my first coat on my underside after...
forum.ih8mud.com
This goes into some of that. Has part number for larger rivets.
aging fleet
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #27
No parts list, but I do have something to add. Since I originally started this thread, other members have sourced wider gauge rubber sleeved rivets that will work if an installer drilled the a-pillar holes too large for the OEM rivets to bite (what happened to me). I would have gone that route had I known there were other options available since I'll eventually get corrosion between the dissimilar metals.
The following from @HoustonFj80 mentions a few rivet options and the thread that @TRLBOSS linked has a ton of information too.
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I had the front windshield tinted and I long story short I have significantly more wind noise on passenger side. I pulled the molding and none of the rivets are connected but the molding was no secured with screws either. I plan on Re-riveting myself - does it look like these are the normal size holes and haven't been altered? The driver side seems to have 3 of 4 rivets in place - only judging that based on the molding which is firmly in place from top down (near engine bay is loose). The passenger side molding was super loose and moves easily with light pressure applied.
That rivet hole does not look factory. Appears it's been worn out and the paint removed. The trim in the second picture is in rough shape and the rivet head looks completely trashed. Granted, that 2nd pic is a weird angle. I can't really tell what we're looking at.
The OEM holes should be perfectly round with no cracked paint or surface corrosion showing. The trim should have neat circular holes. The rivet should have a center pin and then a flattened, circular head which pinches down onto the trim.
Ok snagged some new pics. With the exception of one of the holes on the a pillar they all look to be in good shape. Ordered a rivet gun and waiting on rivets
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
^ Looks like you have some prep work to do to keep the cancer from settling in and spreading.
Did you order the Mr. T rivets?
Did you order the Mr. T rivets?
Couple of tricks
1. Have black weatherstrip adhesive on hand and pa dab between the trim and pillar where the rivets will go. Dab some on the rivet also before inserting. And seal over the top of the rivet after it is popped in
2. Have larger diameter rivets on hand if needed as a couple of the holes look a bit wallowed out
3. Have a stack of rivet washers on hand to stack between the top of the rivet and the rivet gun so you can get all the way into the channel ( extends the nose of the gun so the gun + washers are firmly seated against the top of the rivet)
4. Place thin cardboard between the glass and rivet gun - the pop of the gun could conceivably crack the windshield
1. Have black weatherstrip adhesive on hand and pa dab between the trim and pillar where the rivets will go. Dab some on the rivet also before inserting. And seal over the top of the rivet after it is popped in
2. Have larger diameter rivets on hand if needed as a couple of the holes look a bit wallowed out
3. Have a stack of rivet washers on hand to stack between the top of the rivet and the rivet gun so you can get all the way into the channel ( extends the nose of the gun so the gun + washers are firmly seated against the top of the rivet)
4. Place thin cardboard between the glass and rivet gun - the pop of the gun could conceivably crack the windshield
I've got the Mr. T Rivets, black weather-strip adhesive, and some 3m VHB tape. Also got some rust neutralizer and will spray with rustoleom rust paint and black paint after to address the rust. Looking for some nice spacers to fill the gap on the rivet gun and hope to get this done soon I'll follow back then! I did not get larger rivets, but can do if needed easily.
I tried to edit my post above but it didn't work. I was able to get 2 of 4 OEM Toyota Rivets installed. This is my first time riveting. One rivet/hole worked great and another I got on the 2nd try. I am thinking a bigger rivet may be in order, as I tried 3 rivets on one hole and couldn't get it to stick. When I removed them they were not scrunching up nice and thick, I was able to pull them out of the windshield fairing/molding with need nose and didn't have to drill.
I also took pics of the DS molding1st pic, silver rivet that doesn't have windshield sealant on it), it looks like these rivets are not Toyota spec and appear to be larger as well? They appear to be all metal and silver heads whereas the toyotas are black. Would you concur?
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
If the rivet doesn't have the plastic sheathing, then they are not Mr. T rivets for the Hundys.
I have seen various sized rivets available with the plastic sheathing, but I don't remember where I saw them.
It's probably worth the extra effort to use all sheathed rivets so you can avoid future rust issues around your windshield. If that means removing some of the current ones, so be it. Don't let all of that good work you've done on your rig go to waste!
I have seen various sized rivets available with the plastic sheathing, but I don't remember where I saw them.
It's probably worth the extra effort to use all sheathed rivets so you can avoid future rust issues around your windshield. If that means removing some of the current ones, so be it. Don't let all of that good work you've done on your rig go to waste!
I wasn’t able to source the larger sheathed rivets when I did mine. Just used the larger aluminum rivets with extra weatherstrip adhesive between the trim and a pillar and covered the head of the rivet as well. No issues for a couple of years now
The tough part is that I don't think you know if there's damage until the next windshield job. There can be a lot of ugly corrosion hidden until that trim and glass come out.
I struggled with additional water leaks even after replacing the windshield and ensuring the side moldings were properly secured with rivets. Ended up having the windshield pulled and took the opportunity to do a mod that another forum member had mentioned but never ended up doing to my knowledge. I installed rivet nuts in the oversized holes. To ensure a water tight seal I used some 3M marine sealant around the rivet nuts when installing, then used thread sealant on the bolts and made a butyl "o-ring" between the trim and body. No more leaks and no wind noise! The best part is it will make removing and installing future windshields much easier, which unfortunately I have to do again since I just got a large crack.
Here are a few pictures for reference:
You've got my vote for "Best non-rivet fastener on the 100 windshield"
