So I am mid stream acquiring this 100 series cruiser. It was from the desert, then a daily driver for a soccer mom. The touchscreen blacked out (with the heat on high) then it lost a head gasket. Its been in storage 2 years, with the current owner saying, “im tired of walking around it- take it”. Total investment to date….. FREE. Game plan is ramp truck to the shop, view on the lift, check oil, then either rebuild heads or swap engines with a rusty old tundra. After that…… I NEED HELP! I want the touch screen operational, the biggest possible tires, and reliability of an anvil. It will barely see pavement, and live on logging roads going from mountain to lake the rest of its days! Will someone take me in as a mentor? Where do i start?
Take me under your wing!!!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter PotatoTruck
- Start date
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Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Start with the FAQ and spending time reading. I would verify HG failure, certainly possible, but not common at all.
For sure sounds like a nice project and I’m happy to follow along and see what’s happening!
Slee has a great newbies guide that mentions a lot of things to look for.
There’s a good tire size thread, not sure I think page 20, I did a summary of what people drive.
And then the typical baselining: all liquids, water pump, spark plugs/ coils, brakes,…
Take the people here along snd you’ll receive a lot of help!
Slee has a great newbies guide that mentions a lot of things to look for.
There’s a good tire size thread, not sure I think page 20, I did a summary of what people drive.
And then the typical baselining: all liquids, water pump, spark plugs/ coils, brakes,…
Take the people here along snd you’ll receive a lot of help!
First off: Who cares about the screen if you have a motor with a blown HG. Like TM said: is it blown? That's rare for a 2UZ. But "Soccer Moms" owned... it could be? Verify.
Once you verify your engine is OK, baselining the rig mechanically instead of worrying about the biggest tires you can find. If this rig is going to live off the grid you need to go through every single piece. Expect to replace nearly every rubber component from hoses to bushings. Radiator. Brake booster. Steering rack. All fluids. Etc.
Your "Free" Cruiser can easily cost you an additional $10k since this truck has been sitting with an unverified engine status. Take a step back and assess what you are working with. Swapping engines from a Tundra will also be more of a PITA than you would expect due to all the minor differences.
Once you verify your engine is OK, baselining the rig mechanically instead of worrying about the biggest tires you can find. If this rig is going to live off the grid you need to go through every single piece. Expect to replace nearly every rubber component from hoses to bushings. Radiator. Brake booster. Steering rack. All fluids. Etc.
Your "Free" Cruiser can easily cost you an additional $10k since this truck has been sitting with an unverified engine status. Take a step back and assess what you are working with. Swapping engines from a Tundra will also be more of a PITA than you would expect due to all the minor differences.
Dont be afraid. there is 20 years worth of posts about 100 series on this forum, the depth of the info here is insane. There is nothing that hasn't already been done and documented here. If you get stuck, create a new thread and be amazed at how many people with real expertise jump in to offer advice. I love this forum
What better project than a resurrection one, exciting times. Congratulations on getting a Land Cruiser for free. I’d say make a list, then identify your Urgent Vs. Important. Getting it back running and road-worthy is for sure one on your urgent items. If it has been sitting untouched for a while, battery is probably dead or dying. Prepare an OBD scanner -this will help you identify issues quicker.
HburgEagle
SILVER Star
What year? Also, not sure anyone else is thinking this, but, I need pictures!!
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
You overpaid.
I thought that everything had been done also. But the moderator corrected me.
- Thread starter
- #11
180,000. I guess before it left Vegas with 80,000 it got a timing belt and a general going through….
Thats the closet ive gotten to it! Im just waiting for title to arrive in handle to unleash on it.
I do have what i believe to be a good methodical plan of attack. At the top of the list is engine and legit Maine inspection sticker. Then I should be able to do a good shake down. Needs before wants. IF the shake down goes well total build budget is flexible, but that 10 grand number is realistic.
Well stated. The first step of troubleshooting is assume nothing followed by check everything. I’m saying a little prayer for the oil in this. If its creamy or any hint of antifeeze in the crank case i’m shying away from this engine (I’m a fan of the lick the oil fill cap on a warm engine. If it tastes like something the neighbors cat would like theres a problem). Im hoping not to go overboard. By no means restoration. Just a happy medium between my 2007 272,0000 mile tacoma woods thrasher and its 89,000 mile twin that doesnt do dirt.
- Thread starter
- #12
Its a 2001. Total investment thus far about $200!
There are a number of NAV screen option. I'd first make sure it's getting power and diagnose the issue. If dead head unit. I'd, just find a used one, from parts rig..
You'll also, find many threads on aftermarket option and some on fixing OEM.
Even tesla screen
I start by inspecting end to end, with lots of pictures. Before degreasing, engine/drivetrain. Paying special attention to head gasket area. Almost all of head gasket outer seam, between block and head can be seen. When a head gasket leaks. It's almost always due to overheating. When this happens, it almost always leaks coolant to the outside side as well as into cylinders. The outside leaks are easy to spot, as they leave signs.
Signs of this: The coolant would likely be low, if not topped afterward. The oil may be contaminated also.
Visual signs along head gasket, of coolant leaks
Next I'd scope the cylinders. Piston tops, would likely be steam cleaned, if coolant leak in that cylinder.
Next question is cylinder walls? This one is toast
As fare as your subsequent $10K build. The the limit, is your wallet! No shortage of ideas, in the 100 series section.
You'll also, find many threads on aftermarket option and some on fixing OEM.
Even tesla screen
I start by inspecting end to end, with lots of pictures. Before degreasing, engine/drivetrain. Paying special attention to head gasket area. Almost all of head gasket outer seam, between block and head can be seen. When a head gasket leaks. It's almost always due to overheating. When this happens, it almost always leaks coolant to the outside side as well as into cylinders. The outside leaks are easy to spot, as they leave signs.
Signs of this: The coolant would likely be low, if not topped afterward. The oil may be contaminated also.
Visual signs along head gasket, of coolant leaks
Next I'd scope the cylinders. Piston tops, would likely be steam cleaned, if coolant leak in that cylinder.
Next question is cylinder walls? This one is toast
As fare as your subsequent $10K build. The the limit, is your wallet! No shortage of ideas, in the 100 series section.
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Lol, this is a strange technique but whatever works for you =]
- Thread starter
- #15
That’s good info. The inspection sticker is 2 years out. Twas down over a gallon of anti-kitty. Dip stick had no rust- coal black and full. No guarantees it didnt separate and settle- i didnt check it again after i started it. It got ramp trucked to an A-1 shop, who is also a toyota guy. He said he may even get it in this week!
