What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (53 Viewers)

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Lockhart Basin for the second time... Lockhart Rd isn't difficult enough (anymore—it was WAY easier than 3 years ago) for this kind of damage to be acceptable.

North->South or South->North? Trail seems to be harder and harder. Any more pics of the trail to post?
 
North->South or South->North? Trail seems to be harder and harder. Any more pics of the trail to post?

N > S this time, though I've run it the same way both times. There were more ledges to drive off than I remember last time, but the main challenge is usually right up front in driving through the wash and up that one hill. In 2016, that hill was a monster that required a bunch of road building. There were also lots of tiny 30pt turns to line up around boulders in 2016, but this time the boulders I remember were...gone. It really was point and shoot. I still managed to crash into a wall :bang: on that hill by ignoring the line I planned on.

Pics? Hah, of course. I was still processing some of them last night as I was whining/worrying about my wheel situation. More to come—waiting on the pics from the other guy on the trip. He's in an XJ, so I don't mention him much. He takes great photos though and managed to film the crash.

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They were $25! I couldn't pass it up, loose long term plan was to wear out the Coopers I have now and go back to ATs for the daily and use the LC rims for muds.

:beer: on me if you or @Eighteen11R make it out to run some Utah trails.
Wow, I thought my $100 for a set was good. I will def take you up on the offer next time I am in the area. I typically pass through SLC 1 or 2 times a year. Mos def one of the best states for wheeling.
 
We’ll certainly not done yet but AHC is disabled and partially removed. Replaced by ARB 2865 springs and torsion bars, Bilstein 5160 piggy back shocks, Trail tailor diff drop and front and rear extended sway bar links. Honestly mud has tons of great info I largely ignored in favor of learning the old school way (just doing it!). I had to use a grinder on one shock, weld a socket, and drill two holes to get the job. Needs some adjustments for sure but close enough it seems to drive perfectly fine. I think removing the AHC components will be the hardest part.

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KO2s..My go-to rubber.

My rubbers usually go by a different name and only just a tiny bit smaller and different shape than pictured...

As for the tires 😆 they're really good in so many scenarios it is hard to justify something else.
 
I’ve never noticed anything like that but my Cruisers aren’t my DD’s.
 
We’ll certainly not done yet but AHC is disabled and partially removed. Replaced by ARB 2865 springs and torsion bars, Bilstein 5160 piggy back shocks, Trail tailor diff drop and front and rear extended sway bar links. Honestly mud has tons of great info I largely ignored in favor of learning the old school way (just doing it!). I had to use a grinder on one shock, weld a socket, and drill two holes to get the job. Needs some adjustments for sure but close enough it seems to drive perfectly fine. I think removing the AHC components will be the hardest part.

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Looks great. So you just put it on up jack stands and did it all at once?
 
Looks great. So you just put it on up jack stands and did it all at once?
Yes. Just did it all at once while on the Jack stands. It’s functional now but I still have the AHC parts I need to remove (lines, globes, etc) so it will take one more session on the stands. That was enough wrenching for me for the day!
 
Yes. Just did it all at once while on the Jack stands. It’s functional now but I still have the AHC parts I need to remove (lines, globes, etc) so it will take one more session on the stands. That was enough wrenching for me for the day!

Thanks for the quick response. I will be doing this in the near future. I've been fretting over which end to start first. Did you have any trouble marking the torsion bars?
 
Thanks for the quick response. I will be doing this in the near future. I've been fretting over which end to start first. Did you have any trouble marking the torsion bars?
No prob! I didn’t mark anything. It took a few adjustments but essentially at full droop I fully threaded the torsion bar adjusters into the nut until I had full thread engagement. No more. Then I indexed the TBs until I could just barely bolt the front bracket onto the lower arm. Essentially I can’t physically index them any tighter without preloading the lower arm.
Once back on the ground I noticed they needed adjusting so back up on the stands and I gave them about 10 turns over the course of another few down then back ups. You will need to feel a bit of tension on the adjusters to be anywhere close to the correct range. Without any load I’m at about 20.5” after two days of settling and 1 10 minute drive. They’ve settled about .25 inches in that time. I’ll load the truck back up then drive it again and readjust as needed. Once set I’ll mark them for future reference.

Again, I’m no expert. Just a dude figuring it out so grain of salt and all that.

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No prob! I didn’t mark anything. It took a few adjustments but essentially at full droop I fully threaded the torsion bar adjusters into the nut until I had full thread engagement. No more. Then I indexed the TBs until I could just barely bolt the front bracket onto the lower arm. Essentially I can’t physically index them any tighter without preloading the lower arm.
Once back on the ground I noticed they needed adjusting so back up on the stands and I gave them about 10 turns over the course of another few down then back ups. You will need to feel a bit of tension on the adjusters to be anywhere close to the correct range. Without any load I’m at about 20.5” after two days of settling and 1 10 minute drive. They’ve settled about .25 inches in that time. I’ll load the truck back up then drive it again and readjust as needed. Once set I’ll mark them for future reference.

Again, I’m no expert. Just a dude figuring it out so grain of salt and all that.

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Looks good to me..
 
We’ll certainly not done yet but AHC is disabled and partially removed. Replaced by ARB 2865 springs and torsion bars, Bilstein 5160 piggy back shocks, Trail tailor diff drop and front and rear extended sway bar links. Honestly mud has tons of great info I largely ignored in favor of learning the old school way (just doing it!). I had to use a grinder on one shock, weld a socket, and drill two holes to get the job. Needs some adjustments for sure but close enough it seems to drive perfectly fine. I think removing the AHC components will be the hardest part.

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Nice. I'm very interested in your thoughts on those shocks.
 

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