Drained Battery and can't open door or hood (1 Viewer)

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Thank you all. I see a lot of helpful posts related to the electrical wiring but I don't have any tools available. And since our car is pretty much all standard from the factory, I don't believe we have any accessible wiring clamps that we can access to potentially give the vehicle some charge.

How about the idea of removing the skid plate to get under the hood and someone open it to get access to the battery. Has anyone tried that ?
 
I was wrong about 90 degrees. On my 2013 it's 45 degrees clockwise to get full mechanical unlock. I can feel some resistance, a spring and the actual mechanism running, then it gets easier as the electrical switch is hit and the battery takes over unlocking this door. Do it again and the other doors unlock, as programmed.

Following picture is as far as mine working correctly turns.

Edit: checking the hood cable now

IMG_1493.jpg
 
Looks like hood cable will both be tough and destroy things, IF it works.

I didnt remove the skid but took some pictures of the area pointing up, phone/camera held down in front of the condenser core. There is a metal guard under the hood latch mechanism itself and it looks like some of the bolts to hold the whole thing in place are accessed from the top. As the cable runs across it is tucked pretty far up inside the core support (picture 2), where you'd have to destroy the cable to get at the inner part anyway, and I took another picture of it coming across the driver's side just to help see the routing.

Might be worth a shot if you are out of other options, but at this point I'd call a highly reviewed locksmith and see what they can do with a wedge & big easy. (that's the tool we use, comes with the bladder)


Bottom driver's side of hood latch, where the cable enters, guarded by a metal assembly.
IMG_1495.jpg


Further toward driver's side.
IMG_1496.jpg


Thin black cable under the front of the battery hold-down.
IMG_1497.jpg
 
What about the positive lead to the starter? I know the solenoid will be switched, but...


Edit: never mind. New Toyota is a lot different than an old vette.
 
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Hit the lock with some dry graphite.

Put it on the key as well as blasting into the lock.

“In and out” “In and out” (the Who) and some twisting may free things up to get the key to turn all the way.
 
@mobajwa is your key turning that far? If so is there any resistance or does it just turn and stop dead?
 
Is there a reason he can’t call pop a lock? And have someone use a lockout stick down the window?

is that extremely bad for the window seals, frame, etc?
 
I still don’t understand what is wrong with the physical key, and questions in attempt to sort that out aren’t getting answered.

200s have extremely robust door frames and it is very difficult to get the needed room for a tool to pull the handle or lock without damaging the seals. A particularly good pop a lock tech could handle it.. but often you don’t know what you are getting, and whoever you do get you’ll be signing a damage waiver.
 
I still don’t understand what is wrong with the physical key, and questions in attempt to sort that out aren’t getting answered.

Agreed. I wanna know WTF is up with the door lock.

Three days and you still aren't able to get into the truck?

I have one of those OBD doohickeys that is supposed to keep the car memorys while you swap the battery. Didn't work when I tried it, although it was in a Lexus IS, not the LC.
 
I *think* my lock will work, and I already store my jump capacitor outside the drawer (in case the power goes, I can't open the rear hatch, so couldn't open the drawer to get the jump box). . . but now I have to pop the hood, lock the car (assuming it will with hood open) unplug the battery, and verify the physical key will work with no power.

Crazy.
 
Thank you all for the replies. Based on some recommendations I put in a little WD40 into the key lock and also on the key, took the key in and out a couple of times, left it there for some time and then tried again. The door is still not opening up.

I recorded a video to show you what the result is. Here is the link.


I'll be calling AAA later today to see if they can come in and open it with a tool that doesn't cause any damage to the door pillar. If that doesnt work, will contact a locksmith.
 
Thank you all for the replies. Based on some recommendations I put in a little WD40 into the key lock and also on the key, took the key in and out a couple of times, left it there for some time and then tried again. The door is still not opening up.

I recorded a video to show you what the result is. Here is the link.


I'll be calling AAA later today to see if they can come in and open it with a tool that doesn't cause any damage to the door pillar. If that doesnt work, will contact a locksmith.

Silly question but at no time in that video did I see you try turning it to the left. Every time appears to be clockwise. Have you tried both directions?
 
I tried pausing the video, but wasn't able to get a good view. Is your key double sided (same cuts on both side) or does one side look a little different (more straight/flat)?
 
This is quite the conundrum.

I recall at least one other thread where someone had some work done within the door or tint or something, that the door release lever cable was never hooked properly back on the door lever. Perhaps something akin to that is going on here?
 
That key lock is not connected to the inner mechanism, or there is another mechanical problem in the mech. At least from my understanding of how these work.
 
Man, this has had me stumped all day.

And like Bloc says I don’t think the door has a mechanical lock mechanism. I think it just hits a sensor so you need power.
 

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