Where do we go from here? To replace my LX or not? (3 Viewers)

[ClassyJalopy]

This thread is to explore and document my journey for a replacement for my truck. It is bit of soul searching with the help of collective madness of this forum.
At this point I have spent a little over $20,000 including purchase price, fixing issues, PM and upgrades. It is finally at a point where it is dead reliable (we just returned from a 1000 miles trip in 90 degrees heat and loaded to the gills!)!

So why am I thinking about a replacement? Well - I have a new front locker sitting on the shelf and I am wondering if it is time to build up a new truck with the locker etc instead of spending money on fixing issues on this rusty truck. The basic question I am asking is: do I spend $5k on this truck and keep driving a beat up $25K truck? Or do I buy a nicer example and spend additional $10-$15K and driver around in a nicer $25k truck?

What I love about it:

• Very reliable
• Goes pretty much anywhere I point it - except big rocks!
• Smooth and quiet ride on highway
• Rough on the outside so I don't mind when I scratch it some!
• Paid off
• Frame is largely rust free - still has some spots that will need to be addressed

What is not so hot:

• Body rust: I have spent about $2000 fixing body rust issues so far. Rear quarter panels are the biggest issue - some rust on the rocker panels too. I think it will take another $2k to $3k for the remaining issues
• Frame rust: There are still some spots that need addressing (hard to picture but most cross members have surface rust)
• Hard to work under the truck since pretty much every bolt is rust-welded.
• Body panels are beat up! I have slowly learned how to avoid body damage while wheeling but the damage caused so far is pretty significant
• Still needs a few mechanical items: such as front LCA bushings, Front Diff bushings, replace leaky steering rack etc.
• Exhaust is original and is probably on its last legs - definitely has surface rust

 

[ClassyJalopy]

1998 LX with 262K miles and ton of maintenance items done, such as:

• Engine
  • VC gaskets, Timing Belt, pulleys, tensioners
  • Radiator, Ts, hoses, water pump, bracket, water inlet, etc. etc.
  • Starter, alternator
  • New plugs / coils / PCV / hoses etc.
• Drivetrain
  • Front CV
  • Rear drive shaft
  • Fresh fluids everywhere, including transmission
  • Rear Factory Locker retrofit
• Suspension
  • Removed AHC - Tough Dog Closed Cell Foam Shocks/ARB 2866 w/ 30 mm spacer
  • All rear control arms, panhard bar
  • Front UCA (OEM) / 555 lower ball joints
  • Steering rack bushings/ new inner and outer tie rods
  • All new bearings in the front
  • Extended Sway bar links and new bushings all around
• Armor/upgrades etc
  • ARB Bull bar/ 9.5K lb winch
  • Mini H1 retrofit/ LED fogs etc.
  • ASFIR aluminum armor plate
  • Dorkel!
  • New windshield and surrounding rust repairs
  • 33" BFG KO2s with only about 10k miles
  • Window tint / door and rear hatch seals
  • Rear lower tailgate storage mod
• Brakes
  • New brake booster/motor assembly - refreshed MC
  • New Rotors/pads all around
  • New flex lines, rear hardline
  • Serviced Parking brakes
• Electrical
  • New rear A/C lines - fresh recharge etc.
  • New stereo
  • Fix interior switches/ lights what-have-you.

The before and after pics

 

[BullElk]

At this point I have spent a little over $20,000 including purchase price, fixing issues, PM and upgrades.

Are you serious? You have that much money in the LX pictured?

 

[87warrior]

Known reliability is worth a lot more to me than a pretty truck. You already have the cash into this LX and a new rig will demand even more cash on top of what you put into the current LX. The resale value on your current LX will be pretty dismal.

I am in a similar scenario as you. My LC isn't pretty (rocker and rear quarter rot) and I have put some serious cash into it that I will never recover from it. But the LC is dead reliable and I know it through-and-through. I'll drive this one until something catastrophic happens... (probably an accident vs. mechanical failure) then it will get parted out.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Are you serious? You have that much money in the LX pictured?

Absolutely dead serious. This is when I bought her for only $2500!

Here's the breakdown on expenses:
Purchase/title/reg: $3000
Body/rust/windshield: $4000
Repairs/PM: $8000
Upgrade: $4000

 

[ramangain]

Keep it and just address the issues which meet the following:

1. keep you from driving it due to breakdowns
2. keep it from being passed by state or local inspections (if this applies to you)

You can always get creative about pounding or pulling out dents if that is a concern to you. When I see another hundy on the road with lots of patina, I smile to myself. It just adds to the rugged reputation.

Also, learn how to weld, and you can address a lot of the rust issues yourself. A good bolt extractor set is also very handy.

 

[ikarus]

It's painful to add up after the fact but yeah it's easy to get to that point. I bought mine for $12K back in 2016 and since then have spent $8K in parts (and a little labor like timing belt) and who even knows how much in upgrades

I think you've seen in my build thread that I'm facing the same dilemma. For me it comes down to:
1. Is the rust going to make your cruiser fall apart and physically not work anymore? Then yes buy a new one if you like them so much - or if you want to be driving the same one in 10 years.
2. Is the rust just annoying but you can keep driving it and the rust will get a little worse every year? I'd say just keep driving it, especially if you like to bash it up on the trails. Also, depends on your financial situation - could this just be a temporary rig and buy a 200 or something in five years.
3. If you keep it and really like wheeling with it, I say send it and get a body lift and start chopping fenders to fit 37s. Why not?

For me I'm most likely just going to hang onto mine since it would take $$$ to get a new Tacoma or 200 to the same point as my 100. And for me if I bought a newer low mileage rust free 100 it wouldn't be much different - except then I get the added joy of redoing all the maintenance I've already done on my current 100. And then at that point you have to start worrying about salt on the roads in the winter getting your new truck all rusty, or have to avoid certain trails since you don't want damage.

 

[Land Caesar]

Let’s see this awful detrimental rusted frame!?!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

It's painful to add up after the fact but yeah it's easy to get to that point. I bought mine for $12K back in 2016 and since then have spent $8K in parts (and a little labor like timing belt) and who even knows how much in upgrades

I think you've seen in my build thread that I'm facing the same dilemma. For me it comes down to:
1. Is the rust going to make your cruiser fall apart and physically not work anymore? Then yes buy a new one if you like them so much - or if you want to be driving the same one in 10 years.
2. Is the rust just annoying but you can keep driving it and the rust will get a little worse every year? I'd say just keep driving it, especially if you like to bash it up on the trails. Also, depends on your financial situation - could this just be a temporary rig and buy a 200 or something in five years.
3. If you keep it and really like wheeling with it, I say send it and get a body lift and start chopping fenders to fit 37s. Why not?

For me I'm most likely just going to hang onto mine since it would take $$$ to get a new Tacoma or 200 to the same point as my 100. And for me if I bought a newer low mileage rust free 100 it wouldn't be much different - except then I get the added joy of redoing all the maintenance I've already done on my current 100. And then at that point you have to start worrying about salt on the roads in the winter getting your new truck all rusty, or have to avoid certain trails since you don't want damage.

It is number 2: Rust is just annoying, otherwise she is still sealed tight with no water or air ingress!
The idea of larger tires is intriguing but even 33" ones, I feel the loss of acceleration. 35 or larger will definitely require regearing which is another $2k !

I do lust after 200 series but it will have to be a replacement of our 2012 Sienna which shows no signs of trouble. Which means it will could be a few years before that happens.

 

[hickuptruck]

Can confirm. Buying a cheap cruiser then putting $8k into parts to get it reliable.

Sounds about right for $4k cruiser then proceeding to drop $8k in parts, then the upgrades bug comes along and empties already empty pockets. Why not keep this with all the fruits of labour you've put into it, then get a daily while you learn new skills fixing what's listed.

Or find a salvage/totaled LC hit on one side. Then buy that. Start taking the body off the frame of both, mix and match, sand blast frame, and have yourself a nicer cruiser in the end.

LCs aren't cheap to own.

 

[D21FJ60]

I'd say keep it, unless you are one of those people that is over the top about a vehicle looking clean all the time.

Devil you know vs. devil you dont.

Double down on your spending and find a clean parts truck in the same color so you can rob it of its clean panels when you need them?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Can confirm. Buying a cheap cruiser then putting $8k into parts to get it reliable.

Sounds about right for $4k cruiser then proceeding to drop $8k in parts, then the upgrades bug comes along and empties already empty pockets. Why not keep this with all the fruits of labour you've put into it, then get a daily while you learn new skills fixing what's listed.

Or find a salvage/totaled LC hit on one side. Then buy that. Start taking the body off the frame of both, mix and match, sand blast frame, and have yourself a nicer cruiser in the end.

LCs aren't cheap to own.

If I were to do it over, I can easily save a few grands! Having a parts rig to switch over body parts sounds fun but I don't have any storage space or a good shop to work at.

I'd say keep it, unless you are one of those people that is over the top about a vehicle looking clean all the time.

Devil you know vs. devil you dont.

Double down on your spending and find a clean parts truck in the same color so you can rob it of its clean panels when you need them?

I don't need a pretty truck - they way I use it, it won't stay pretty for long. It's the rust that worries me! As for a parts truck, I wish I had storage space.

Perhaps, it's time to buy a welder and start practising!

 

[D21FJ60]

I got the impression you didn't care for the pretty, but was inclined to say somethign anyways.
I too bought a cheap cruiser and live in a rust area. I figure if I can keep my truck running for 5 years I will be good. Frame is rusty but no holes.

 

[Kabanstva]

Rust free is the way to go. Just transfer over as much as you can and build a rust free platform.

 

[medtro]

I don't need a pretty truck - they way I use it, it won't stay pretty for long.

Keep this one. Let someone else owns the pretty and no rust vehicle.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Rust free is the way to go. Just transfer over as much as you can and build a rust free platform.

Keep this one. Let someone else owns the pretty and no rust vehicle.

You guys sum up my dilemma beautifully!

 

[ShenValley100LC]

Woof, 20K...that seemed unbelievable until I started tallying up mine...and most of mine was free labor and 50% discount on parts. Yeah as someone else said, the resale value is going to be rough for that you've done for it.

I plan to drive mine into the ground for a couple reasons. One, I just wanna see how far it can go. I'm at 515,000 and it still just feels great at a fundamental level, im left with the small annoying stuff like sunroof not retracting, rust were the steps met the body, and the rear quarter panel (which I think rear swingout bumper will fix). Two, I have perfectly working luxury 4WD that I probably couldn't sell for more than $2-3K. Eventually if I can stop getting furloughed I can get my wife a mall crawler LX470 (i mean still gonna have 200K+ miles for sure) and myself another spare vehicle.

Car, title, etc: $2,600
Bumper, winch, snorkel: $1,300
Suspension: $450
Timing belt/Rad: $850
CV, wheel bearings, etc: $750
Oil changes, ATF drain & fill: $450
random parts: $450
brake stuff: $200
probably some things missings so maybe $7-8K tops


There's a couple issues here. Even if you get another Lx/Lc, which economically would make the most sense (since you have the bumper/upgrades, etc, not to mention tools) but even if you go down south and get one youre still in Wisconsin and its probably gonna start rusting unless you are religiously washing the body and coating the frame. So Idk, another high mileage LX with the timing belt recently done probably makes the most sense, swap the mods and upgrades if you can. That's worth more than whatever youd get for that truck probably. You could probably pay for a rental space just selling just a couple parts off your old one. I mean hell, we keep these long enough maybe the prices will rebound like other old cruisers making it totally worth to address the rust and body damage.

Also has a general piece of advice stop hitting trees.

 

[ShenValley100LC]

If I remember right, you had a used rear e-locker swapped in, had mechanical disaster from a bearing issue, plus a lot of trial and error fix hunting down phantom issues which gets very expensive very fast. I'm different from many LC-ers here in that I've mostly replaced things when theyre broken....ive also been towed twice.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I'd keep it. It's already been a big project so why not...

Buy a PDR tool set and pull what dents you can, grind out the rust spots and have a local shop tack in some fill panels. Bondo what's left and spray it with a rad color bed liner or wrap it in a cool graphic.

 

[TXMeatball]

If you're even asking it's probably best to part ways. Had a similar-ish situation when I was downsizing to one vehicle. Your future time and money is best spent getting exactly what you want now (if feasible).