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- #61
A few shots of the hub rebuild
Build 78 body off restore (cruiser #2)
- Thread starter Curtice
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- #62
And putting things back together
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- #63
Rather than rebuild the free wheeling Warn hubs, I decided to buy new. Some pics of that and a couple other rebuild pics. This is where the front axle is now:
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- #64
Rear axle before pics 
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- #65
some tear down pictures. Removing the pin, etc. in the dif so I could pull out the axle.
Removing the seals
Removing the seals
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- #66
And some rear axle pics. Haven’t yet put the brakes together, but axle is reinstalled with new wheel studs.
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- #67
Engine progress. For detailed engine rebuild I’ve started a thread in the 80 tech section, since I’m building a 3FE. If interested, you can see that here: Can I put together a 3FE when I don't know what I'm doing? Lets find out...
But for this thread, a summary and a couple pictures. Took the bare block and head to the machine shop. They cleaned, bored, and machined all the stuff that needed to be cleaned bored and machined. I’ve got the short block back and currently waiting on the head (oil galley fix), oil pump and rockers getting cleaned.
I’m excited to do the engine work. I’m completely learning as I go, but find it enjoyable. But will always have that lingering concern that I miss something. Anyway, here’s the engine as it is now.
But for this thread, a summary and a couple pictures. Took the bare block and head to the machine shop. They cleaned, bored, and machined all the stuff that needed to be cleaned bored and machined. I’ve got the short block back and currently waiting on the head (oil galley fix), oil pump and rockers getting cleaned.
I’m excited to do the engine work. I’m completely learning as I go, but find it enjoyable. But will always have that lingering concern that I miss something. Anyway, here’s the engine as it is now.
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- #68
I could sit here and post all night. Lots of little things I’ve been working on. I’ll get to all of it. For now, I kind of got this thread caught up. Plan for this week and next is to finish the rear axle and drum brake rebuild, then get the OME suspension installed.
Once that is on, I can get my rolling chassis going with these beauties...one of my favorite purchases so far. Repro aluminum wheels from the FJ Company. I’m pairing them with some KO2s.
Once that is on, I can get my rolling chassis going with these beauties...one of my favorite purchases so far. Repro aluminum wheels from the FJ Company. I’m pairing them with some KO2s.
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- #69
I’m gonna try to update much more often. If for no other reason than to make myself feel like I’m making progress.
Got a couple of things done today. Installed new studs for the rear diff cover, put down the new gasket and tightened it down. Add a new filler plug and things are shiny. Is it really only 9 ft lbs torque on the diff cover nuts? Seems like not enough.
Also painted my mini truck power steering gear box. Decided to go stainless steel color just for some contrast, but since me and painting don’t get along well, it turned out strange. It was like the paint separated when I sprayed and ended up with a very powdery texture. Weird, but I’m not gonna redo it.
Also bolted down the rear frame gussets. I left them loose for the powder coating. I didn’t want to rivet, so just used 3/8 button head Allen that have the look. I think it looks nice.
Got a couple of things done today. Installed new studs for the rear diff cover, put down the new gasket and tightened it down. Add a new filler plug and things are shiny. Is it really only 9 ft lbs torque on the diff cover nuts? Seems like not enough.
Also painted my mini truck power steering gear box. Decided to go stainless steel color just for some contrast, but since me and painting don’t get along well, it turned out strange. It was like the paint separated when I sprayed and ended up with a very powdery texture. Weird, but I’m not gonna redo it.
Also bolted down the rear frame gussets. I left them loose for the powder coating. I didn’t want to rivet, so just used 3/8 button head Allen that have the look. I think it looks nice.
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- #70
Those who are running OME. I have heavy fronts at the recommendation of Cruiser Outfitters saying I should remove a leaf if necessary. I might eventually have a winch, but that is a later on project. I also have a 3FE which I think might be a bit lighter than 2f ..(?)
Getting my suspension ready, should I remove a leaf to start since I am certainly on the “lighter duty” side of things, or just install as is and see how it rides (when I eventually get to that point)?
Would love some thoughts of those with experience with these springs.
Getting my suspension ready, should I remove a leaf to start since I am certainly on the “lighter duty” side of things, or just install as is and see how it rides (when I eventually get to that point)?
Would love some thoughts of those with experience with these springs.
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- #71
Went ahead and removed the leaf. Took less than 20 minutes to do both springs. Of course if I decide to add back later, will take some time.
Just c-clamped the springs, removed the center pin nut and slowly undid each clamp. Slid out the 3rd lead from the top, per guidance from Cruiser Outfitters. Clamped it back down using a guide to keep the holes aligned, inserted the center pin, and torqued the nut to 36 ft lbs.
Just c-clamped the springs, removed the center pin nut and slowly undid each clamp. Slid out the 3rd lead from the top, per guidance from Cruiser Outfitters. Clamped it back down using a guide to keep the holes aligned, inserted the center pin, and torqued the nut to 36 ft lbs.
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- #72
Couple updates. I picked up a powder coating gun and love it. Soooo much better and easier than painting. So my new rule of thumb is that if it fits in my oven, it gets PC’d. Haven’t done a whole lot so far, but here are a few items:
Also, Steve at SMS Headliners hooked me up with some front door panels to match my interior upholstery. I think they turned out great:
Also, Steve at SMS Headliners hooked me up with some front door panels to match my interior upholstery. I think they turned out great:
You fit that side cover in an oven? What've you got, a pizza oven?
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- #74
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- #75
ok, so making some more progress. Got the axles and suspension (minus the shocks) bolted up to the frame. Wasn't nearly as bad as I remember, but I do have a better setup and tools this time. I'll post some more detailed pics later.
So then started to work on the rear drum brakes. I've never rebuilt these before and have a couple of questions. I purchased new wheel cylinders, shoes, and hardware kit from Cruiser Outfitters. Got the cylinders bolted up, but then got kind of stuck on progressing.
Couple questions:
Question 1: I assumed the wheel cylinders would be ready to go, but do I need to grease any part of them? I pulled the adjusting bolt out of one of them and it looks dry and rusty inside. I wasn't sure what to expect. Thoughts? FSM says there should be "non-melt type grease"...not sure what that is. Just regular brake lube grease? Picture:
Question 2: On the brake shoes...each one has one end that fits into the wheel cylinder notch that is thicker than the other. This thick end will not fit into the wheel cylinder notches...it is too big/thick. Am I missing something? I feel like this should be straightforward, yet i'm not sure. Here are 2 pics...1 showing the brake shoe and how there is a thicker end. Others shows it against the adjusting bolt notch and how it doesn't quite fit.
So then started to work on the rear drum brakes. I've never rebuilt these before and have a couple of questions. I purchased new wheel cylinders, shoes, and hardware kit from Cruiser Outfitters. Got the cylinders bolted up, but then got kind of stuck on progressing.
Couple questions:
Question 1: I assumed the wheel cylinders would be ready to go, but do I need to grease any part of them? I pulled the adjusting bolt out of one of them and it looks dry and rusty inside. I wasn't sure what to expect. Thoughts? FSM says there should be "non-melt type grease"...not sure what that is. Just regular brake lube grease? Picture:
Question 2: On the brake shoes...each one has one end that fits into the wheel cylinder notch that is thicker than the other. This thick end will not fit into the wheel cylinder notches...it is too big/thick. Am I missing something? I feel like this should be straightforward, yet i'm not sure. Here are 2 pics...1 showing the brake shoe and how there is a thicker end. Others shows it against the adjusting bolt notch and how it doesn't quite fit.
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- #76
Talked to Cruiser Outfitters. Great company...they are always super helpful. Anyway, they explained regarding the brake shoes that the ones with a narrower foot haven’t been offered for a long time. So the solution is to grind them down a bit. So that’s what I did, on the grinding wheel. Didn’t need much grinding and fit like a glove. Put some brake lubricant in all the spots the FSM said and got them installed.
Grinding the shoes:
Grinding the shoes:
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Serious axle porn you have going there sir, nice work!
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- #79
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- #80
Thanks. Been following yours too. I’d wager you are further than me tho. I haven’t started any work on the body/tub.
But I did spend some money! Got some goodies back from the plating shop.
Also powder coated my valve cover.