- Thread starter
- #21
So I've order the Ironman kit (TOY051BKP - (because it's a diesel)) today. Looks like it will arrive around 2 weeks later. Will report back
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
How are their springs seriously engineered?
Coilover springs aren't priceyI don't know if you're being serious.....but, I'll bite. Different metallurgical properties including how much heat is used when bending is just one of many ways springs are engineered. My rear coils are dual-rate extra heavy coils which are engineered differently than single-rate. Spring rates don't just happen. They have to be designed. The "springs" on my race cars are engineered very much differently to those that are commonly found on passenger vehicles. The "shocks" are there to control compression and rebound. Without the correct springs, the shocks are practically useless. If you have an undersprung vehicle, you'll bottom/top out your shocks (regardless of how well engineered they are) and destroy them. If you have an oversprung vehicle, the shocks can't perform at all as they can't "travel". It's a critical balancing act. This is the very reason the Strutmasters AHC delete kit is so dangerous. They don't offer torsion bar replacements. As a consequence, people who have the kit tend to use the AHC TBs and crank the hell out of them. This overstresses the bar (too much torsional force which was not engineered into the component) which can cause a catastrophic failure (worst case) and/or overstress the shock causing poor performance and potential damage to the shock itself. The first key to it all is getting the right springs for the weight. Once you have that, pick shocks based on what you're trying to achieve. For some, that means just a simple shock like OEM. For others, who want more nuanced control over shock performance, they get Kings or other high end shocks that can be custom valved for specific requirements.
As for trophy trucks, those springs aren't NAPA, off-the-shelf springs. They use coil-overs and those springs cost a fortune. I have had a few in our private garage from time to time.
The extra angle will accelerate the demise of already bad CVs.
Do yourself a favor and buy new clamps and get ready to put them on pretty much right when you lift it. Mine leaked some grease until i changed the clamps.Question is how much? 1k miles? 10k?
That's the beauty of the AHC - on the highway go to Sport mode and the anti-roll really kicks in. No dives/swings when turning on speed, breaking or accelerating. And with the Comfort it really takes away the edge of washboards and gravel roads.
That's on properly functioning and maintained AHC system of course.
Okay, so after roughly 1000 miles, here are my thoughts about the Ironman kit:
It's just a bad kit honestly The only time it performs great is on the straight highway & with perfect road conditions. That time the car is planted and greatly controlable. See there is a stretch of a highway not too far away where I live, it's a big long U turn with a joint half way cross the road, you go 60mph. I've never seen a car/suspension that can't handle this, but the IM kit just takes the car out of control on that joint. The whole car jumps toward the side of the road and it's not a great feeling.
On slow/bad roads - so in the town: it's very firm. Way too firm indeed. It's sad that my GF's car (yaris) costs about the same price as the IM kit, and that car handles and feels better.
Slow/technical Offroad: This is the place where this setup is really-really bad: it feels like as the suspension is welded together, you can feel every little rock/imperfection in the whole car. Airing down the tire helps a bit, but still it's bad. You can't go fast, because then you bottom it out. If you go slow instead: it's like it's welded together.
I don't know if it's because the springs are super heavy (and these are the lighter ones from the 2 available), or if the recent change in the valving of the shocks have killed the great ride eveyone's talking about, but I'm kind of dissapointed in the performance of this product.
Okay, so after roughly 1000 miles, here are my thoughts about the Ironman kit:
It's just a bad kit honestly The only time it performs great is on the straight highway & with perfect road conditions. That time the car is planted and greatly controlable. See there is a stretch of a highway not too far away where I live, it's a big long U turn with a joint half way cross the road, you go 60mph. I've never seen a car/suspension that can't handle this, but the IM kit just takes the car out of control on that joint. The whole car jumps toward the side of the road and it's not a great feeling.
On slow/bad roads - so in the town: it's very firm. Way too firm indeed. It's sad that my GF's car (yaris) costs about the same price as the IM kit, and that car handles and feels better.
Slow/technical Offroad: This is the place where this setup is really-really bad: it feels like as the suspension is welded together, you can feel every little rock/imperfection in the whole car. Airing down the tire helps a bit, but still it's bad. You can't go fast, because then you bottom it out. If you go slow instead: it's like it's welded together.
I don't know if it's because the springs are super heavy (and these are the lighter ones from the 2 available), or if the recent change in the valving of the shocks have killed the great ride eveyone's talking about, but I'm kind of dissapointed in the performance of this product.
In one of your earlier posts, you mention being at nearly 23” (it sounded like you were referring to the front) after your IM install...
Perhaps a stupid question, but how much “droop” do you have in the front currently?
Man that sucks, esp since it was such a bitch to install. Since you mentioned you can bottom out the suspension at higher speeds offroad, I'm thinking the compression damping is too stiff...I think. Are the shocks adjustable? I don't know anything about them, but some old Koni's I had could be adjusted and could be tuned in that way.Okay, so after roughly 1000 miles, here are my thoughts about the Ironman kit:
It's just a bad kit honestly The only time it performs great is on the straight highway & with perfect road conditions. That time the car is planted and greatly controlable. See there is a stretch of a highway not too far away where I live, it's a big long U turn with a joint half way cross the road, you go 60mph. I've never seen a car/suspension that can't handle this, but the IM kit just takes the car out of control on that joint. The whole car jumps toward the side of the road and it's not a great feeling.
On slow/bad roads - so in the town: it's very firm. Way too firm indeed. It's sad that my GF's car (yaris) costs about the same price as the IM kit, and that car handles and feels better.
Slow/technical Offroad: This is the place where this setup is really-really bad: it feels like as the suspension is welded together, you can feel every little rock/imperfection in the whole car. Airing down the tire helps a bit, but still it's bad. You can't go fast, because then you bottom it out. If you go slow instead: it's like it's welded together.
I don't know if it's because the springs are super heavy (and these are the lighter ones from the 2 available), or if the recent change in the valving of the shocks have killed the great ride eveyone's talking about, but I'm kind of dissapointed in the performance of this product.