Undo AHC Delete / Restoration of AHC Help!! (2 Viewers)

[neo2uzfe]

Today, Done some electrical tests, not so discreet. With a multimeter, checked some fuses and voltages.

Cowl panel- fuse box(Engine running)
==============
AHC-IG 20A- ~10-12V
AHC-B 15A- ~9-12V
AM1 7.5A- ~12V
AHC Relay attached to Suspension Control ECU- Clicks when 12V applied.
******
Engine Compartment Fuse box- 50A AHC Fuse- No Voltage detected (Continuity checks). I tried at 50A fuse terminals in the box, no voltage either(Tried with Engine on/ ig on/ Blue AHC Relay replaced with ABS one etc).
Can anyone tell whether that is the correct procedure or the AHC relay should kick in for 50A fuse to get voltage?
*******************************************
One another thing I've noticed that there are couple of disconnected plugs near Fuse box(Photo attached). Could that be the connector coming from alternator to AHC circuit? Is that disconnection preventing Power to AHC power circuit and 50A Fuse? I looked through the Engine cover gaps, but couldn't find any socket where those connectors supposed to be disconnected from. Where are those connectors going to??Waiting for your comments. VCI cable won't be showing up anytime soon. It is sailing slowly from China .

 

[neo2uzfe]

Glad to hear the video helped you! To be clear though - reviving a deleted system can be way harder than just doing the simple upkeep on a functional system. AHC is relatively easy to keep running, but all bets are off if it's been removed/left open to elements.



Without verifying wiring and power to the ECU, the codes here aren't worth much.

Dear @suprarx7nut can you suggest any guide how to verify the wiring and power to ECU? I tried a little but FSM details are a bit intimidating to me as I’m struggling to find where to start. Thanks

 

[suprarx7nut]

Dear @suprarx7nut can you suggest any guide how to verify the wiring and power to ECU? I tried a little but FSM details are a bit intimidating to me as I’m struggling to find where to start. Thanks

FSM should have all you need. They will have the AHC ecu shown in many pages with its pin out.

It will seem like a foreign language, but study it and get familiar with your dmm. It'll make sense.

 

[neo2uzfe]

FSM should have all you need. They will have the AHC ecu shown in many pages with its pin out.

It will seem like a foreign language, but study it and get familiar with your dmm. It'll make sense.

I will dig FSM again. I would like to request you to go through my previous post about the disconnected plug at engine bay. Could you verify those are not alternator circuit to AHC please?

 

[neo2uzfe]

50A fuse shows 13V once engine started. So that almost narrows down to dead suspension control ecu or the harness(less likely).

 

[neo2uzfe]

Glad to hear the video helped you! To be clear though - reviving a deleted system can be way harder than just doing the simple upkeep on a functional system. AHC is relatively easy to keep running, but all bets are off if it's been removed/left open to elements.



Without verifying wiring and power to the ECU, the codes here aren't worth much.

Hi, Today I managed to connect techstream and went through AHC information. The ECU seems communicating. Only the 3 dtc’s are present. Except for relay’s other active tests on solenoids didn’t work. I don’t know what to make out of these screenshots. Can you please go through these and comment. I found some weird status of my ECU and ECT as well. One more thing, despite ecu communicating, there is still no dashlight for ahc, neither for AHC OFF nor the heights. This is confusing. Please check. Thank you.

 

[neo2uzfe]

Hi, Today I managed to connect techstream and went through AHC information. The ECU seems communicating. Only the 3 dtc’s are present. Except for relay’s other active tests on solenoids didn’t work. I don’t know what to make out of these screenshots. Can you please go through these and comment. I found some weird status of my ECU and ECT as well. One more thing, despite ecu communicating, there is still no dashlight for ahc, neither for AHC OFF nor the heights. This is confusing. Please check. Thank you.

View attachment 3518207

View attachment 3518208

View attachment 3518209

View attachment 3518210

Bump

 

[OrionZodiac]

Looks like your two front height sensors might be bad. You can get OE replacements (Aisin I believe) from Rockauto. C1762 is likely a bad pump. The AHC most likely got removed because of a bad pump. What most likely happened is that the previous owner went to Lexus and they quoted him like $4K to replace a bad pump. Maybe also the globes which here in the US is like $800 each from the dealership. So instead, he opted to go the cheaper route and get rid of AHC entirely.
If you want to get it working again, you will likely need to purchase all 4 AHC shocks (~$1200). You will likely need rear springs (AHC specific spring, $800). Do note, the driver's and passenger side springs are different (driver's side spring is taller because fuel tank and driver sit on the left) . These AHC spring are thinner than what you find in a LC without AHC. You will need the spacers for the springs (OEM spacers are 10mm). You will need to make sure that the AHC lines are in good condition. There is a rubber O-ring and a plastic backing ring in each AHC line which are a pain in the ass to replace, especially in the rear. If the lines are not in good condition, then you will need to replace the lines. As for the pump, you can replace the entire assembly ($1400) or just the pump ($300) if you purchase internationally; you can search the forums about replacing just the pump. You will likely need new globes ($400-600) if you buy international. You will need to flush the system with AHC fluid once is all said and done. The torsion bars on the AHC models are also thinner, so you might need to replace the torsion bars ($200-400), you might find a used set on ebay. You might have other parts which are bad.

As you can see...this gets expensive quickly. So unless you have deep pockets and do your won work (labor rates are ridiculous), then its best that you leave this system alone. Or sell the land cruiser and buy one with a working AHC.

 

[neo2uzfe]

Looks like your two front height sensors might be bad. You can get OE replacements (Aisin I believe) from Rockauto. C1762 is likely a bad pump. The AHC most likely got removed because of a bad pump. What most likely happened is that the previous owner went to Lexus and they quoted him like $4K to replace a bad pump. Maybe also the globes which here in the US is like $800 each from the dealership. So instead, he opted to go the cheaper route and get rid of AHC entirely.
If you want to get it working again, you will likely need to purchase all 4 AHC shocks (~$1200). You will likely need rear springs (AHC specific spring, $800). Do note, the driver's and passenger side springs are different (driver's side spring is taller because fuel tank and driver sit on the left) . These AHC spring are thinner than what you find in a LC without AHC. You will need the spacers for the springs (OEM spacers are 10mm). You will need to make sure that the AHC lines are in good condition. There is a rubber O-ring and a plastic backing ring in each AHC line which are a pain in the ass to replace, especially in the rear. If the lines are not in good condition, then you will need to replace the lines. As for the pump, you can replace the entire assembly ($1400) or just the pump ($300) if you purchase internationally; you can search the forums about replacing just the pump. You will likely need new globes ($400-600) if you buy international. You will need to flush the system with AHC fluid once is all said and done. The torsion bars on the AHC models are also thinner, so you might need to replace the torsion bars ($200-400), you might find a used set on ebay. You might have other parts which are bad.

As you can see...this gets expensive quickly. So unless you have deep pockets and do your won work (labor rates are ridiculous), then its best that you leave this system alone. Or sell the land cruiser and buy one with a working AHC.

Dear @OrionZodiac Thanks for the reply. The pump responds when doing active test on main relay via techstream. However I do not know the exact condition. The lines are not terrible, I cannot find much of a rust there. About the cost part, what you've mentioned is correct. I do have old AHC Torsions ( but they're very old). Shocks and Globes I intent to purchase new. Other things I'm planning to get some used take away parts through garages or ebay. including sensors and all. Spring, I will fetch for used, if not will try king springs blue(softer). It looks expensive repair. But very much tempting. Might cause serious holes in my pocket. I did think about getting another LX with everything working. But hard to pass this one, you know we get attached. Except for the AHC part, the truck is in great condition( other than a bit dirty here and there). I will keep it as a longer term project, will accumulate the replacement parts and bits. Once I get everything have to attempt a replacement. If it works, great. if not, then diagnose more.
The one thing I don't understand is the AHC dash lights. Despite ECU is present, the dash lights(Hi,No,Lo, AHc OFF) still not working. Could it be the height control switch? it illuminates only the UP and Down button, but not the damping mode select area(comfort-sport). I'm going to remove the pump assembly today to check visually. Is there a method to bench test the pump?

 

[2001LC]

Just scanned over this thread, so this may have been covered.

I notice, in the picture of dash light area HI N LO. The N and LO are obscured. Some guys pull lenses off dash (combination meter), and cover AHC lights.

 

[2001LC]

You absolutely can get this AHC system working. But as @suprarx7nut noted; If hard lines damaged, this could be very difficult. But based on pictures (I need to see more areas), I'll bet you've no hard line issues. Even those flexible "may" be good for a test. As looks like outer shell busted, but inner not yet.

You are lucky. So many remove globes and accumulator, cutting hard lines, clip wires and toss as junk. Yours's from what little I see, is mostly all there.

Most AHC system are removed, to modify. But keep in mind, some because they had issues. Most common issues are: failed globes, failed sensors or a short.

______ Get it working___ they are sweet when turned correctly.

Tech Stream:

Frt sensor DTC's likely because wire housing blocks not connect. Connect and set sensors at N position. The sensors DTC, should go away.
Pump DTC, may be related. But will likely fail again, without all lines connected so it can build pressure.

I don't think you can get tech stream to fully run AHC test. Until all wires & lines connected and working within limits. Say no press, since hydraulic lines not connected (closed loop), it will just shut down (OFF). Sensor not connect or to far out of range, it will shut down. Short, it will shut down. Low voltage it will shut down

AHC shock and sensors, must be install before any worthwhile testing, more than you've already. Perhaps you can find used shock, sensors and or their turn buckle/brackets from take-offs. Same for flexible lines, if they leak. You can come back, after testing/working with new parts if you like. AHC Torsion bars and rear stabilizer bar (if not the thinner AHC), can be replaced after system working. It just may not drop to low. Unless heavy load (thick) T-bars, not excessive backed-off. Which then AHC may not go to H then, until they T-bar crank back up again. But still you can a good idea of what all you may or may not need, to get system working as designed.

First I'd:

Flush all lines that had been disconnected, first thing.

Perhaps one could jump pump, with 12 volts from battery. To use pump to flush. Which is FSM procedure, for testing pump motor is jumping with 12 volts. I fired my ~24 gauge test wires, as pump pulls a lot of amps. So I built jumper with a pumps wire housing block, using heavier gauge wire and large alligator clips for attaching to battery. Now I can just plug into pump and attach jumper wires to battery, fast and easily. If I wanted even better control, like to stop and start pump for a flushing. I could put a switch inline.

Once pump tested and running. I'd try filling reservoir and flush out line with pump, before hooking up any hydraulic lines that were open/removed (open to contaminates). Another way, one could blow out. Is disconnect lines upstream, then blow out each with air or hand fluid pump. But that would be more labor IMHO. Also you need to test pump.

AHC fluid is expensive. So one can reuse the new flushed through fluid. First rule, do not let and other fluids introduced (oils or water) into new fluid. Toss first that comes out lines during blow out. Second; filter the new fluid used, before recycling into system. I filter through a good transmission inline filter.

Flush shock. Even new OEM, I find contaminates in them. Work shock like a syringe, sucking up fluid and pump back out. Until no visible partials in fluid.

Then install shocks and wires into sensors and fire it up. One could just attach lines to shock, without installing shock as a tested. I suppose! But they're not designed to be full extend by pressure. So this could damage a shock, IDK, as never try when off vehicle.

If any issues after all set up. I'd also check wire harness blocks, for corrosion. Don't miss those under vehicle. Like under rear quarter tip of frame/ body. USA LHD that is on LH rear (driver side). Likely LH side on RHD also. Why, we've had issues with undercarriage wire housing blocks getting water in them, as they age. Wire leads/terminals/pins, then get corrosion which increases resistance and can cause faults. Although I see good IG Volts at ~ 12.5V & +B 11.6 volts, is a tad low, but may be normal or what battery is at. So your wiring likely all good. So may save this test for later, if can't get system working as it should.

Good luck!
BTW: I've both soft tires and hard sets. The soft tire makes the ride (feel of AHC) so much nicer.

 

[2001LC]

 

[2001LC]

Interesting read.

 

[neo2uzfe]

Just scanned over this thread, so this may have been covered.

I notice, in the picture of dash light area HI N LO. The N and LO are obscured. Some guys pull lenses off dash (combination meter), and cover AHC lights.
View attachment 3519733

Dear @2001LC first of all a big thank you for taking time to post such detailed reply. The cluster thing I have doubt too. But nothing over the dial. Can be on the gauge pcb though, where the smd led’s are. I can see the writings and holes where the led lights up on the gauge. Check the photo. T-BELT lights up on ignition on. Which is very near to ahc indicators. I might have to check with another combination meter (hard to find and expensive as hell). Because there are some other lights not displayed as well. Like VGRS( don’t know whether my truck has it), parking sensors off etc. they are there on gauge face but no lighting up.

 

[neo2uzfe]

You absolutely can get this AHC system working. But as @suprarx7nut noted; If hard lines damaged, this could be very difficult. But based on pictures (I need to see more areas), I'll bet you've no hard line issues. Even those flexible "may" be good for a test. As looks like outer shell busted, but inner not yet.

You are lucky. So many remove globes and accumulator, cutting hard lines, clip wires and toss as junk. Yours's from what little I see, is mostly all there.

Most AHC system are removed, to modify. But keep in mind, some because they had issues. Most common issues are: failed globes, failed sensors or a short.

______ Get it working___ they are sweet when turned correctly.

Tech Stream:

Frt sensor DTC's likely because wire housing blocks not connect. Connect and set sensors at N position. The sensors DTC, should go away.
Pump DTC, may be related. But will likely fail again, without all lines connected so it can build pressure.

I don't think you can get tech stream to fully run AHC test. Until all wires & lines connected and working within limits. Say no press, since hydraulic lines not connected (closed loop), it will just shut down (OFF). Sensor not connect or to far out of range, it will shut down. Short, it will shut down. Low voltage it will shut down

AHC shock and sensors, must be install before any worthwhile testing, more than you've already. Perhaps you can find used shock, sensors and or their turn buckle/brackets from take-offs. Same for flexible lines, if they leak. You can come back, after testing/working with new parts if you like. AHC Torsion bars and rear stabilizer bar (if not the thinner AHC), can be replaced after system working. It just may not drop to low. Unless heavy load (thick) T-bars, not excessive backed-off. Which then AHC may not go to H then, until they T-bar crank back up again. But still you can a good idea of what all you may or may not need, to get system working as designed.

First I'd:

Flush all lines that had been disconnected, first thing.

Perhaps one could jump pump, with 12 volts from battery. To use pump to flush. Which is FSM procedure, for testing pump motor is jumping with 12 volts. I fired my ~24 gauge test wires, as pump pulls a lot of amps. So I built jumper with a pumps wire housing block, using heavier gauge wire and large alligator clips for attaching to battery. Now I can just plug into pump and attach jumper wires to battery, fast and easily. If I wanted even better control, like to stop and start pump for a flushing. I could put a switch inline.

Once pump tested and running. I'd try filling reservoir and flush out line with pump, before hooking up any hydraulic lines that were open/removed (open to contaminates). Another way, one could blow out. Is disconnect lines upstream, then blow out each with air or hand fluid pump. But that would be more labor IMHO. Also you need to test pump.

AHC fluid is expensive. So one can reuse the new flushed through fluid. First rule, do not let and other fluids introduced (oils or water) into new fluid. Toss first that comes out lines during blow out. Second; filter the new fluid used, before recycling into system. I filter through a good transmission inline filter.

Flush shock. Even new OEM, I find contaminates in them. Work shock like a syringe, sucking up fluid and pump back out. Until no visible partials in fluid.

Then install shocks and wires into sensors and fire it up. One could just attach lines to shock, without installing shock as a tested. I suppose! But they're not designed to be full extend by pressure. So this could damage a shock, IDK, as never try when off vehicle.

If any issues after all set up. I'd also check wire harness blocks, for corrosion. Don't miss those under vehicle. Like under rear quarter tip of frame/ body. USA LHD that is on LH rear (driver side). Likely LH side on RHD also. Why, we've had issues with undercarriage wire housing blocks getting water in them, as they age. Wire leads/terminals/pins, then get corrosion which increases resistance and can cause faults. Although I see good IG Volts at ~ 12.5V & +B 11.6 volts, is a tad low, but may be normal or what battery is at. So your wiring likely all good. So may save this test for later, if can't get system working as it should.

Good luck!
BTW: I've both soft tires and hard sets. The soft tire makes the ride (feel of AHC) so much nicer.



View attachment 3519805
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View attachment 3519807
View attachment 3519811

The hard lines are in good shape. I don’t suspect a rust issue. The lines are not capped but are covered with plastic and tape at shock ends. I hope that is good. Even the plastic backing for the shock end is there. Tried to remove the pump yesterday. Even though my hand aren’t that huge, I couldn’t unbolt those nuts behind reservoir and pump. Out of curiosity to check any fluid is present in the accumulator, tried opening the stubborn bleed screw and snapped it. Now I guess I need a new accumulator. I get mixed feelings from the comments here. Sometimes I will think, enough, will get a king shock setup or something. But 70% positive comments encourage me to do the ahc restoration. There is no modern ahc alternative as @suprarx7nut says.

 

[NE Snowman]

The picture of the dash at night really looks like they put permanent marker or paint over the dash lights. Look at the L in Low and the first line on the N got hit too. Also in the daylight you can see the same exact spots are darker.

 

[neo2uzfe]

The picture of the dash at night really looks like they put permanent marker or paint over the dash lights. Look at the L in Low and the first line on the N got hit too. Also in the daylight you can see the same exact spots are darker.

View attachment 3520486

View attachment 3520487

wow!!! Never thought of permanent marker ahc light delete method. This is a great observation. Who was this dumbest mechanic kept 2 fuses intact and painted the gauge face to hide the light. Now I guess opening the combi meter lens and cleaning it will be pointless. Very delicate parts and 100 fragile clips. Once I tried opening it for cleaning and already found one tab was broken and fixed with tape.

 

[neo2uzfe]

The picture of the dash at night really looks like they put permanent marker or paint over the dash lights. Look at the L in Low and the first line on the N got hit too. Also in the daylight you can see the same exact spots are darker.

View attachment 3520486

View attachment 3520487

You work for forensic mate??

 

[2001LC]

The hard lines are in good shape. I don’t suspect a rust issue. The lines are not capped but are covered with plastic and tape at shock ends. I hope that is good. Even the plastic backing for the shock end is there. Tried to remove the pump yesterday. Even though my hand aren’t that huge, I couldn’t unbolt those nuts behind reservoir and pump. Out of curiosity to check any fluid is present in the accumulator, tried opening the stubborn bleed screw and snapped it. Now I guess I need a new accumulator. I get mixed feelings from the comments here. Sometimes I will think, enough, will get a king shock setup or something. But 70% positive comments encourage me to do the ahc restoration. There is no modern ahc alternative as @suprarx7nut says.

View attachment 3520440

View attachment 3520441

People pull out AHC for many different reason. Mostly they heard something, that is not true.
There is only two reason to pull AHC system, IMHO.
1) Can afford to maintain.
2) Want more than about 2" lift for a build.

If it's the AHC ride you want, which I personal love (I've four LX 470 today. Go for it, restore the system. My bet is, your system only needs the missing parts. The dash lights my be cover or disabled. In any case you can restore the AHC, back to factory configuration.

Id first contact PO, asking why he pulled? And or search all service records available for clues, of issues with AHC. But even if system was pulled due to issues, they're correctable.

But if on the fence, please say so. I've many wanting my help, I can't waste time with maybe!

-----------------

The accumulator bleeder's, snap-off often. It's is reportedly, the thinnest walled of all bleeders (brake & AHC). Bleeders freeze in their port, because the rubber caps are missing allowing water in. The Accumulator and rear brake calipers bleeders, are the ones we've most issue with. Don't be concerned with it, at this point. Many working AHC systems, have this one busted. We can flush and bleed around it.

I'd not be concerned with dash lights just yet either. Nor with DTC found in tech stream for pump and sensors.

I did notice openings of flex hose ends, protect. Which is a very good sign. That someone took time, so this AHC could be easily set back up. You just need the missing parts, to get started. The factory service manual and parts diagrams, will help you with determining what parts you need. www.partsoug.com has great diagrams. Use your VIN number to find your vehicle.

I'd not pull pump assembly. I'd jump with 12 Volts, just as the manual (FSM) instructs as a test. Just run it for a moment, to see it works. Since, we do not want to run pump while dry for more than a moment. 98% chance your pump and motor are fine.

Once I knew the pump works. Which I bet it does. I'd start collecting the missing parts. First I'd ask PO if he had or knew where they are. Second I'd search for used locally.

Once I had all missing parts, need for test. I'd install them. But I would not connect hydraulic lines to shocks (Flush shock before installing, while on the bench), until after I used the pump to flush the lines. Even though flex line ends protected. I'd still add AHC fluid to reservoir and run some fluid out those flex hose end, before installing shock. We just want to be sure, lines cleared of any contaminates. Do no hard, is rule!

Once all parts install Which does not need, include coil spring, T-bars or rear stabilizer bar just yet. You can test AHC system.

One could test without shocks attached, I suppose!. By capping all flex hoses. But you must have all 3 of the sensor wires housing blocks hooked-up to the 3 height sensors, to close the loop. Unless you know, of someway to jump those wire and get same resistance feedback to the AHC CPU.

I do have used shocks, some may even have the washers and old rubber. I've even have used motor/pump assembly. All pulled from working AHC. May even have a CPU. But may be pricy to ship from Denver CO USA to you in Kuwait. PM (DM) me, if interested in parts.

 

[neo2uzfe]

People pull out AHC for many different reason. Mostly they heard something, that is not true.
There is only two reason to pull AHC system, IMHO.
1) Can afford to maintain.
2) Want more than about 2" lift for a build.

If it's the AHC ride you want, which I personal love (I've four LX 470 today. Go for it, restore the system. My bet is, your system only needs the missing parts. The dash lights my be cover or disabled. In any case you can restore the AHC, back to factory configuration.

Id first contact PO, asking why he pulled? And or search all service records available for clues, of issues with AHC. But even if system was pulled due to issues, they're correctable.

But if on the fence, please say so. I've many wanting my help, I can't waste time with maybe!

-----------------

The accumulator bleeder's, snap-off often. It's is reportedly, the thinnest walled of all bleeders (brake & AHC). Bleeders freeze in their port, because the rubber caps are missing allowing water in. The Accumulator and rear brake calipers bleeders, are the ones we've most issue with. Don't be concerned with it, at this point. Many working AHC systems, have this one busted. We can flush and bleed around it.

I'd not be concerned with dash lights just yet either. Nor with DTC found in tech stream for pump and sensors.

I did notice openings of flex hose ends, protect. Which is a very good sign. That someone took time, so this AHC could be easily set back up. You just need the missing parts, to get started. The factory service manual and parts diagrams, will help you with determining what parts you need. www.partsoug.com has great diagrams. Use your VIN number to find your vehicle.

I'd not pull pump assembly. I'd jump with 12 Volts, just as the manual (FSM) instructs as a test. Just run it for a moment, to see it works. Since, we do not want to run pump while dry for more than a moment. 98% chance your pump and motor are fine.

Once I knew the pump works. Which I bet it does. I'd start collecting the missing parts. First I'd ask PO if he had or knew where they are. Second I'd search for used locally.

Once I had all missing parts, need for test. I'd install them. But I would not connect hydraulic lines to shocks (Flush shock before installing, while on the bench), until after I used the pump to flush the lines. Even though flex line ends protected. I'd still add AHC fluid to reservoir and run some fluid out those flex hose end, before installing shock. We just want to be sure, lines cleared of any contaminates. Do no hard, is rule!

Once all parts install Which does not need, include coil spring, T-bars or rear stabilizer bar just yet. You can test AHC system.

One could test without shocks attached, I suppose!. By capping all flex hoses. But you must have all 3 of the sensor wires housing blocks hooked-up to the 3 height sensors, to close the loop. Unless you know, of someway to jump those wire and get same resistance feedback to the AHC CPU.

I do have used shocks, some may even have the washers and old rubber. I've even have used motor/pump assembly. All pulled from working AHC. May even have a CPU. But may be pricy to ship from Denver CO USA to you in Kuwait. PM (DM) me, if interested in parts.

Thanks again for your positive comments. So you’re telling, the snapped bleed screw on accumulator will not cause a leak under pressure? Can you describe how to cap of the line ends to test the system without shocks?is there a specified cap or tool for this? This will be the best option as connecting four shocks as piggyback will be messy.

Regarding previous owner, he’s unreachable. I tried contacting him earlier. No answer. He’s probably riding a LX600 by now. I consulted my local technician regarding this work. That lazy moron won’t touch.he’s telling it will bounce around. They’re after easy money. Remove one vehicle from garage lift, get other one easily for a part replace and get paid. However, I am determined to try everything to get it to work. One more thing, similar to another ahc repair thread, my height control switch illuminates only in up and down switch. Not in the damping mode select area. In that thread, ecu was dead and not communicating with techstream. My ecu seems talking to tis. Still switch part is confusing. Is that normal? Your entire switch part illuminates? I would welcome the possibility of getting your spare available parts once I diagnose mine. Shipping is a concern. Not only about price. Some hydraulic /pressurized parts are hard to ship in. Oversize package and volumetric weight is a concern too. But it might come handy. We’ll see. First I will start with jumping the motor. How will I verify the pump is ok? Easy to verify motor. I think it ran for a quick second through techstream active test. I could here motor noise from passenger side. I could buy some ahc fluid for testing purpose from toyota dealer. Again, a massive thank you for your time and effort.