EGR Temp Sensor Test Plug (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Just ordered up 4 more. Nice work on this. Very elegant and simple.

Readiness, though, is key for this "test" to work. Having a good OBD2 scanner is essential IMO.

Thank you very much!
 
Just ordered up 4 more. Nice work on this. Very elegant and simple.

Readiness, though, is key for this "test" to work. Having a good OBD2 scanner is essential IMO.

What ODB2 scanner you recommend beno?
 
Awesome LC4LIFE, thank you for making this. For us Kalifornians, will this work for our tests?
 
Awesome LC4LIFE, thank you for making this. For us Kalifornians, will this work for our tests?

CA is an odd duck for sure, but if your ECM is at readiness prior to installing the test plug, it should be okay. A disabled EGR will raise NOX values, so it just depends on what your truck will read with the test plug installed. That is probably what will make or break your test.

However, this is coming from someone that has never lived and thankfully, had to deal with California emissions.
 
Readiness achieved; thank you!

This solution is elegant.

However, I am impressed at the longevity of my check engine light bulb. It stayed warm for about 150K mi. or so.
 
gents,

super interesting work here. i must admit to being a bit overwhelmed reading all the linked threads on this though.
a couple of questions please as i try to tackle a p0401 code on a 97 lx 450 (OBD II) please?

1. if i currently have a p0401 and i do the resistor mod or buy the pre-fabbed one is it certain i lose my readiness state (or however you say this)?
2. do you need to do this specific set of steps to get readiness state back again? these are mighty complicated and i'm afraid i need to dedicate a week to it and/or could easily screw it up
EGR Readiness Achieved with EGR Removed!
3. physically removing the EGR has no impact on the readiness state. i mean, if you do the resistor mod then you lose readiness basically and then you can decide whether or not to physically remove the EGR system?

i mean i need to get rid of the p0401 to pass inspection i am thinking and then the EGR is a separate issue. with retaining or losing readiness state being a third issue i guess.

THANKS
 
Basically, once you do the resistor or test plug, you solve the code but lose readiness. If you want readiness back (mainly for emissions testing), yes, it is relatively complicated using the relays and a drive cycle to get it back.

And yes, once the resistor or plug is in place, you can remove all the related EGR components if you so desire and you will not get the common EGR related codes.

I will PM you my phone number if you wish to discuss this more.

David
 
I don't believe you need one for 91-92 as they are not OBDI or OBDII.
I just did egr and pump removals on my 91 fj80 with almost 300k.
Got a cel. I think this is because mine must be a California native.
(From what I've gathered on here the cal 91and92's got an egr temp sensor. I guess your just supposed to be able to jumper the plug with a paper clip and no more cel. Idk but ill try it.)
I also have all the vacuum thingies still bolted in where they were and the electrical plugged in. I have all the vacuum lines plugged and the bypass for the intake pressure sensor in. I think I can just unbolt the "vsv's" I think there called and unplug and remove but I've read somewhere on here that the vsv closest to the firewall is for fule not sure about that but I'll try unplugging them and see.
It would be nice to have a neater looking plug than a paper clip but i suppose i coyld just connect the wires
Hi, 1991 ones made yet ? Mike
I don't believe you need one for 91-92 as they are not OBDI or OBDII.
 
I just did egr and pump removals on my 91 fj80 with almost 300k.
Got a cel. I think this is because mine must be a California native.
(From what I've gathered on here the cal 91and92's got an egr temp sensor. I guess your just supposed to be able to jumper the plug with a paper clip and no more cel. Idk but ill try it.)
I also have all the vacuum thingies still bolted in where they were and the electrical plugged in. I have all the vacuum lines plugged and the bypass for the intake pressure sensor in. I think I can just unbolt the "vsv's" I think there called and unplug and remove but I've read somewhere on here that the vsv closest to the firewall is for fule not sure about that but I'll try unplugging them and see.
It would be nice to have a neater looking plug than a paper clip but i suppose i coyld just connect the wires

Get me a pic of the plug on the sensor and I will see what I can do.
 
Put me on the list for your next batch of 95-97. Thanks!
 
I just removed all the vsv and the blower. I took the old egr temp sensor out of the egr and plugged it in and stashed it next to the intake. I have the battery unplugged now going to see if that'll reset the computer and turn off cel.
Yeah so CEL still comes on after a while with the EGR temp plugged in and stashed on the intake. I guess I'll have to try and jump them with a paper clip and see if that works.
 
Installed mine per the instructions and completed my first 60 mile commute with a happier engine. Thank you!
 
There's one thing I don't understand with this - under the EGR Valve, there's a small hose that diverts exhaust to the bottom of the Modulator. Doesn't blocking vacuum to the Modulator from the Throttle Body (in effect preventing the Modulator from opening the EGR valve) risk damaging the modulator and dumping exhaust into the engine bay?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom