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Wheeler Offroad "Superbumps" installed. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 04gto
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- bump stops lca suspension
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re_guderian
SILVER Star
OK, went out and tried to flex everything and see if these limited the upwards travel. I think I failed miserably... 
I need to find a better location. I got the front wheel stuffed as much as I could given the limited terrain to do so. I still think it will go more. I ended up at just under 18" from hub center to fender. I'm at about 20.5" ride height. Seems like I'm missing ~2", right? Though I'm not sure that you actually WANT it to bottom in a situation like this. Then I looked under and saw that the LCA/cross-member appeared to be on the ground. 
. This was more uphill than the photo appears. It's compressed, but not bottomed out. There's still some space under the rear OEM bumpstop. However, there appears to be a bit of a clean spot on the rear OEM bumpstop after ~5 mi. of Indian Res dirt road (The Ironman FoamCell Pros rock!!! They let you go way faster than you should over crappy dirt/desert roads.) so maybe it actually bottomed out going through some washes, etc.? Tires are 34", 295/75/16 Nitto TG's street pressure. I think the terrain is dictating the limits here. I"m also on a stock rig, no bumper, sliders, winch, dual batt's, etc. Just a diff drop. And a desert furrowing tool (AKA trailer hitch).
Also, another thought, these really turn constant spring rate torsion bar springs into essentially a progressive spring-rate bar. Constant rate while there's no contact at ride height and slightly lower, then increasing spring rate as compression begins.
The most I could stuff it.
![20161215_165952[1].jpg](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1280' height='960' viewBox%3D'0 0 1280 960'%2F%3E "20161215_165952[1].jpg")
Passenger's Front is off the ground, spinning free. ASB still connected.
Superbump compression. Or lack thereof. Might have been better (more compression) going downhill?
Rear Factory bumpstop at same place.
I need to find a better location. I got the front wheel stuffed as much as I could given the limited terrain to do so. I still think it will go more. I ended up at just under 18" from hub center to fender. I'm at about 20.5" ride height. Seems like I'm missing ~2", right? Though I'm not sure that you actually WANT it to bottom in a situation like this. Then I looked under and saw that the LCA/cross-member appeared to be on the ground. . This was more uphill than the photo appears. It's compressed, but not bottomed out. There's still some space under the rear OEM bumpstop. However, there appears to be a bit of a clean spot on the rear OEM bumpstop after ~5 mi. of Indian Res dirt road (The Ironman FoamCell Pros rock!!! They let you go way faster than you should over crappy dirt/desert roads.) so maybe it actually bottomed out going through some washes, etc.? Tires are 34", 295/75/16 Nitto TG's street pressure. I think the terrain is dictating the limits here. I"m also on a stock rig, no bumper, sliders, winch, dual batt's, etc. Just a diff drop. And a desert furrowing tool (AKA trailer hitch).Also, another thought, these really turn constant spring rate torsion bar springs into essentially a progressive spring-rate bar. Constant rate while there's no contact at ride height and slightly lower, then increasing spring rate as compression begins.
The most I could stuff it.
Passenger's Front is off the ground, spinning free. ASB still connected.
Superbump compression. Or lack thereof. Might have been better (more compression) going downhill?
Rear Factory bumpstop at same place.
OK, went out and tried to flex everything and see if these limited the upwards travel. I think I failed miserably...
Also, another thought, these really turn constant spring rate torsion bar springs into essentially a progressive spring-rate bar. Constant rate while there's no contact at ride height and slightly lower, then increasing spring rate as compression begins.
The most I could stuff it. View attachment 1367209
Passenger's Front is off the ground, spinning free. ASB still connected. View attachment 1367212
Superbump compression. Or lack thereof. Might have been better (more compression) going downhill?
View attachment 1367216
Rear Factory bumpstop at same place.
View attachment 1367217
looks like the same as mine. I think that is pretty much what we will get on low speed crawling. I will pull mine this weekend and measure. It is pretty telling when I try to lower my AHC to the low setting and it drops about a 1/2 inch instead of 2.
OK, went out and tried to flex everything and see if these limited the upwards travel. I think I failed miserably...
Also, another thought, these really turn constant spring rate torsion bar springs into essentially a progressive spring-rate bar. Constant rate while there's no contact at ride height and slightly lower, then increasing spring rate as compression begins.
The most I could stuff it. View attachment 1367209
Passenger's Front is off the ground, spinning free. ASB still connected. View attachment 1367212
Superbump compression. Or lack thereof. Might have been better (more compression) going downhill?
View attachment 1367216
Rear Factory bumpstop at same place.
View attachment 1367217
looks like the same as mine. I think that is pretty much what we will get on low speed crawling. I will pull mine this weekend and measure. It is pretty telling when I try to lower my AHC to the low setting and it drops about a 1/2 inch instead of 2.
I found the picture of compressed Superbumb Wheeler's superbump modification???
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Interesting. I wonder though, all the reading I did seems to indicate that they made a composition change mid-2015 to a stiffer material since initial reviews had them as too soft. Wonder if this is the "old type"?
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No sway bar or coil over. We should call and ask if the Tacoma application is a softer durometer than tundra fj application.
Tried to talk with Dan at Wheeler's but they go home at 1pm on Fridays. I asked the gal that answered about the compound change and durometer changes by application. She did not have any solid answers and we will need to wait for Dan on Monday. She did allude to sending some back because of being soft.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
So I played around on the vise today while I was working on the other cruiser, and here's what I found.
1. It's pretty hard to tell how much these compress just visually - they don't deform into a "squished out" shape so much as just become a fatter cylinder.
2. Based on my finely calibrated vise-force-measurement-memory, at the same force the superbump is just under 1/2" taller the OEM bumpstop, which isn't yet at metal on metal.
3. That doesn't necessarily mean you lose ~1/2" travel at the bumpstop, or slightly more at the wheel (not going to do the trig tonight), just that it gets progressively harder to access that last inch or so of wheel travel. There doesn't appear to be anything preventing the superbump from compressing to OEM height or less, just more force needed to get there.
4. The first half inch or so of compressionb is pretty easy, the gets harder. At 1 1/2" compressed height, the cylinder of material is pretty dense, very hard.
5. For my predominant off-road driving style, I love them, and will keep them on, especially with OEM t-bars up front.
Uncompressed
Compressed as much as I could without a cheater bar.
OEM compressed
The superbumps get about 1/2" wider when compressed
Uncompressed
Compressed
1. It's pretty hard to tell how much these compress just visually - they don't deform into a "squished out" shape so much as just become a fatter cylinder.
2. Based on my finely calibrated vise-force-measurement-memory, at the same force the superbump is just under 1/2" taller the OEM bumpstop, which isn't yet at metal on metal.
3. That doesn't necessarily mean you lose ~1/2" travel at the bumpstop, or slightly more at the wheel (not going to do the trig tonight), just that it gets progressively harder to access that last inch or so of wheel travel. There doesn't appear to be anything preventing the superbump from compressing to OEM height or less, just more force needed to get there.
4. The first half inch or so of compressionb is pretty easy, the gets harder. At 1 1/2" compressed height, the cylinder of material is pretty dense, very hard.
5. For my predominant off-road driving style, I love them, and will keep them on, especially with OEM t-bars up front.
Uncompressed
Compressed as much as I could without a cheater bar.
OEM compressed
The superbumps get about 1/2" wider when compressed
Uncompressed
Compressed
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #51
After about 800 miles with these on the LC100 I like them. But I am going to make a needed modification. My resulting wheel up travel is reduced a maximum of approximately 1.5 inches, which is a lot. So I am going to trim about .4 from the superbumps. I made these calculations based on my observations in the field and from others who have thankfully posted here with there feedback. I am losing not more than .5 inch compression at the bumpstop location. So I will just trim a little less than that.
I should update this thread...I pulled mine out. The stock ride height of the LX suffers a bit more. I may trim and put in again but seems to be entering the land of diminished returns for me.
from another thread:
This may seem a hack, but if you are going to get rid of them, why not cut off the upper one-third and see how that works for you?
I had considered it. The more I drive without them I'm glad there off. I just like the factory ride and I am not really ever hitting the factory bumps that much if any. They will limit travel even if I cut them and I now feel that allowing shocks to have as much travel as possible to dissipate the energy is more efficient than having the stops interfere with it especially with the ifs limited travel issue to begin with. I think they have made them firmer than the older models that seem to compress easily and further than factory causing the fear of over compression using them. You would really have to be flying and hit some big dips or holes to over compress with these.
from another thread:
This may seem a hack, but if you are going to get rid of them, why not cut off the upper one-third and see how that works for you?
I had considered it. The more I drive without them I'm glad there off. I just like the factory ride and I am not really ever hitting the factory bumps that much if any. They will limit travel even if I cut them and I now feel that allowing shocks to have as much travel as possible to dissipate the energy is more efficient than having the stops interfere with it especially with the ifs limited travel issue to begin with. I think they have made them firmer than the older models that seem to compress easily and further than factory causing the fear of over compression using them. You would really have to be flying and hit some big dips or holes to over compress with these.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
I finally got around to doing a head-to-head comparison on these on my 2 land cruiser.
Bottom line, I'm keeping mine. I don't think they limit real-world travel, at least on non-AHC vehicles, and even then, likely only limits when in "low" mode.
I just don't think that the final inch of wheel travel is available to any truck at slow speeds unless it is significantly weighted down. Otherwise, I think that travel only gets accessed in a dynamic situation at speed. Unless someone else has pictures of a full wheel stuff - on the bumpstops - at low speed/stopped?
I tried getting it as stuffed as I could in both OEM and Wheeler configurations. Downhill, so weight on front as much as possible, the wheel travel is almost exactly the same.
Thinking about it, I don't think you'd want to be able to touch the OEM bumpstops at slow speed. That would leave no room for more travel in a high-speed, dynamic impact.
Pics...
Bottom line, I'm keeping mine. I don't think they limit real-world travel, at least on non-AHC vehicles, and even then, likely only limits when in "low" mode.
I just don't think that the final inch of wheel travel is available to any truck at slow speeds unless it is significantly weighted down. Otherwise, I think that travel only gets accessed in a dynamic situation at speed. Unless someone else has pictures of a full wheel stuff - on the bumpstops - at low speed/stopped?
I tried getting it as stuffed as I could in both OEM and Wheeler configurations. Downhill, so weight on front as much as possible, the wheel travel is almost exactly the same.
Thinking about it, I don't think you'd want to be able to touch the OEM bumpstops at slow speed. That would leave no room for more travel in a high-speed, dynamic impact.
Pics...
For those of us doing an AHC lift, this mat be the bumpstop ticket.
Sorry for dumb question, how do you guys remove the OEM bump stop out? Big pliers with adjustable jaw?
re_guderian
SILVER Star
BF-pipe wrench
- Thread starter
- #57
I soaked mine with PB blaster the day before. Used jumbo size channel locks, came right off.
Performance update: I still like them, no more harsh bottoming out and noticeable loss of up travel.
Performance update: I still like them, no more harsh bottoming out and noticeable loss of up travel.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
yes, noticeable loss of up-travel or no, no noticeable loss of up-travel?
- Thread starter
- #59
Sorry.
No noticeable loss of up travel.
Now that I have these in hand, they do seem fairly stiff. I'm going to give them a shot and see it they work out. I'll update this thread as soon as I get the ability to test them out on the trails.
Luis
Luis
