Suspension refresh..... (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 11, 2022
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Location
Virginia
Looking for some maintenance guidance, on trying to get ahead of stuff on my 04 100 series no AHC. Its time to refresh the front end, doing service the other day I noted its time for ball joints, CV axles (was going to reboot but figured with everything else I'm doing and not sure how long the one side has been spitting grease I might as well replace) and shocks .

I don't really plan on messing with the suspension on the truck as far as a lift goes for quite some time. I daily this truck but do like to wheel and wheel hard when I can. However its a small percentage these days with the rest of life. First major upgrades down the line I'm planning on are a rear locker and winch. That being said with the thought of refreshing the front end I figure Ill crank the torsion bars and and some spacers in the rear. I already have 33s so I figure this will give me some more wheel well clearance and mainly plan on doing since ill be refreshing my suspension anyways.

Everything I intend to replace for maintenance at this point will be OE, any other items I should look at while doing this stuff or any suggestions you guys have are welcome. Long term once I have some more weight on the vehicle I may end up swapping springs in the rear/torsion bars but will likely stick with the OE shocks for ride quality based off what Ive read.

Again mainly just looking for suggestions on what some of the people who have had a 100 for a while would do. Im not made of money and certainly dont mind saving in some places but also dont mind doing the right things as I plan on keeping this truck for a bit. All suggestions are welcome thanks in advance!
 
I lifted my 100 and swapped to new shocks, new UCA, all ball joints new, new bushings LCA.
Now, as I still have a rattle, I ordered all parts to have a complete makeover of my knuckle. You will also have it in your hand when redoing ball joints.

Inner/ outer seals, wheel bearings, spindle bearing and bushing, new hub flanges incl mounting hardware.
All that was ~650$ at Partsqou for both sides incl tax/ shipping.
Also decided to throw in front DBA rotors and pads as I’m replacing the bearings already.

I think that goes up to the max you can do.

Here’s my parts list for the sake of completeness.

In my case partsqou and the diagrams via my VIN helped me to not forget a part :)

And on top of it: I properly treated knuckle, dust covers, LCA with a POR treatment to have peace of mind for the future.

IMG_7830.jpeg
 
Mine is also my main/daily and went through mine at 300k a little while ago and also chose to stay OEM (also no lift). I found every bushing and mount had signs of dry-rot. A few in particular were chunked (rubber broken/missing): Lower control arms (you are already on this, check your uppers while you are there), transmission mount (I don’t even know, this was a total surprise), and the front diff mount (radiator side). The front diff is a PITA so just plan to do the other front diff mount at same time.

The other stuff take your time as you feel necessary. Dry-rot is not an emergency on most of these pieces, but most of them will offer a noticeable improvement from being able to dampen vibrations again.

Will be interested to see condition of your other bushings/mounts, good luck with the process and enjoy your hundy!
 
I appreciate the info guys, sorry it took a bit to get back here its been a busy couple days at work!

I'm at 147k miles currently and I'd say condition overall is fair. I'll check the knuckle out while I'm looking over this as well but may try and hold off this round to save myself some money. I'll also check out the mounts the next time I get a chance to hop under here and looks things over.

I'll be doing Valve cover gastkets, tube seals, plugs and heater ts in the next week or so then plan on tackling the suspension afterwards.

Hopefully than I'll he caught up and can start thinking about a rear locker and winch lol
 
At that mileage and tenure, it's just about right to do an IFS refresh:
  • Upper and Lower Ball Joints.
  • Inner and Outer Tie Rods.
  • Stabilizer Links.
  • Stabilizer clamps.
  • UCA and LCA front and rear bushings.
  • Steering Rack bushings.
    • Not required but highly recommended: check front wheel bearing play and axle shaft backlash (if there is) with front flange.
    • Not required but highly recommended: front struts - if you have a symptom or harsh ride/struts is leaking oil.
 
At that mileage and tenure, it's just about right to do an IFS refresh:
  • Upper and Lower Ball Joints.
  • Inner and Outer Tie Rods.
  • Stabilizer Links.
  • Stabilizer clamps.
  • UCA and LCA front and rear bushings.
  • Steering Rack bushings.
    • Not required but highly recommended: check front wheel bearing play and axle shaft backlash (if there is) with front flange.
    • Not required but highly recommended: front struts - if you have a symptom or harsh ride/struts is leaking oil.
Looking at parts I see a couple bundle kits, any worth looking at? Or best way to bunch some of the bushings together when purchasing?
 
I personally like kits. Which one you have in mind and people can comment here.
 
Looking at parts I see a couple bundle kits, any worth looking at? Or best way to bunch some of the bushings together when purchasing?
I got my IFS refresh components mostly from Cruiser Outfitters, UBJ, LBJ, F/R LCA bushings, stab links, I/O tie rods, etc. Steering feedback is 100x tighter, and predictable like how it was when brand new.
For my steering rack bushings, I went aftermarket with Polyurethane since during the time of pms I was already thinking of an end game 35" tire setup and for me the practical way to secure a responsive and long-lasting steering rack is to get a good foundation on the bushings.
 

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