Locker Wiring Gone!! It happened to me. (1 Viewer)

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ToyotaDon

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This is actually kind of embarrassing. :eek::eek:

When I bought my '94 FZJ80, I saw the locker switch, and checked for the actuators, and even tried actuating them. I got the rear to lock without too much trouble, but the other light just kept flashing. I figured the actuator was just seized, so I've put off addressing it until I get to the knuckle rebuild.

Well, this week was slow at work, so with permission, I pulled the rig into the shop and started fixing oil leaks (valve cover, oil pump, P/S pump). While in the air, I took a closer look at the front diff lock actuator and found nothing connected to it! :eek:

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The brackets mounted to the sway bar are supposed to have something attached to them, namely, the locker harness. I don't know how I didn't notice this before. :eek::eek::eek:

I think I saw the pigtail harness coming off the actuator and assumed that was all there was. NOT!

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You can see in this next pic where the indicator switch connector is broken off, and the actuator connector is even broken.

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Not sure why it's missing, unless someone cannibalized this truck to fix or modify another. The broken pieces point to some kind of violence, either an accident or theft. :confused:

I ordered a harness to try and get this working. Got the only one they had at the San Ramon parts depot.
 
Thats exactly what happened to me. :D When I bought truck front harness was missing and actuator was broken off at the same locations. That's funny:cheers:
 
Got the new harness and installed it, but the front locker still wouldn't engage.

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Finally decided to take it out and pull it apart, along with a bit of cleaning.

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This piece on the right turned out to be the culprit. The open vent tube allowed moisture to get in there and cause some rust and corrosion.

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When I first tried to turn the gear, it was just making the spring move, and not the shaft. Once I messed with it a bit, the shaft started turning and I was able to pull it out of the housing.

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A little more cleaning and sandpaper work, and it was ready to go back together.

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After carefully following the FSM instructions to line up the gear, I reinstalled and connected the actuator. The Cruiser was already up on the lift, so I started spinning the wheels and working the lockers. Yes, I said the lockers were all working!! :bounce::bounce:
 
ToyotanDan... excellent write up. Inspires me to clean up my axles.. My ttruck came from MA and has surface rust on everything..
 
Did you try again when you had it on the ground? I did the same thing on mine and it'd engage with the front end in the air and spinning the tires but when I dropped it and went to an empty lot I couldn't get it to engage. Still haven't figured it out.
 
Mine was missing the wiring when I got it in 2007 also. Truck was straight stock, so not sure why this happens occasionally with some. Mine didnt have any damage though, just missing the wiring. You're a hell of lot smarter than me though. If I remember correctly, I was struggling to figure it out.

I should probably pull it and clean it out like you have done. I had some trouble just before Christmas while doing 4 days in Death Valley where the front locker wouldnt disengage....could have been trouble.
 
You're a hell of lot smarter than me though. If I remember correctly, I was struggling to figure it out.

I should probably pull it and clean it out like you have done.

I don't know if I'm smarter, it took me since May, when I bought it, to figure this out.:doh:

Pulling apart and cleaning was surprisingly simple with this one. The hardest part was interpreting the diagram that showed how to position the gear when you reinstall it. The FSM actually has you lock the diff, then make sure the actuator is in the locked position as well before installing.
 
I don't know if I'm smarter, it took me since May, when I bought it, to figure this out.:doh:

Pulling apart and cleaning was surprisingly simple with this one. The hardest part was interpreting the diagram that showed how to position the gear when you reinstall it. The FSM actually has you lock the diff, then make sure the actuator is in the locked position as well before installing.

I got mine working within 3 months, but once I had decided to tackle it finally I didnt just look to see if it was plugged in, that would have been too easy. I started doing detailed electrical tests on the "locker box" in the dash and generally burning myself out. Then I remembered to KISS...emphasis on the last S.

Could you explain a little more on the reassembly? So with your hands you locked the diff (not even sure how you'd do that), then actuate the locker motor, then install the motor onto the diff?

I'll have to grab the FSM and read up so I can make sense of it. I'd like to do the front and rear on my truck so I dont have any more issues in the boonies.

:beer:
 
I should have taken some pictures of that, but the FSM explains it pretty well. You can slide the "rack" gear of the locker with a screwdriver or possibly with a finger. When the actuator is working properly, an AA battery is all it takes to operate it. The FSM calls it a 1.5V battery, which is any single cell; AA, D, C, etc.
 
Pictures are worth a thousand words; thanks.

Anyone know what type of grease is used where the contacts slide? For the gears inside the actuator do we use any particular grease; Valvoline Palladium with Moly, Mobil 1 red?

Anyone know of a source for the large O-rings when putting it all back together?

Edit:
Found more threads while searching:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/95649-rear-e-locker-actuator-rebuild-pics.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/17701-rear-locking-dif-assembly-help.html
 
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I used dielectric grease on the contacts, multi-purpose white grease on the gears, and transmission assembly lube on the o-rings.
 
This 'thing' about 80's having the front locker loom missing or disconnected is getting quite common. I think when these cars were new and purchased by someone with more money than me, these were people who did not have a clue what they were doing with the switches on the dashboard, these are probably the same people you see driving down the road at night with the fog lights on. Anyway, they complain to the garage that they cannot turn the steering wheel and like the fog light warning on the dashboard they do not notice it. The garage simply disconnects the wiring and all is well, then along comes someone like us mudders (handsome, fit..........er um, sorry off roading types) and find the problem later on.

regards

Dave
 
ToyotaDon; Thanks.
 
Very interesting. My front harness was missing as well. Glad to see I'm not the only one. Bought a new harness and all is well. Connector was partially chipped away, so some well-placed zip-ties were applied for extra insurance and peace of mind. :p

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when i bought mine, the wiring was missing also. I bought new wiring for it and it worked perfect but be careful because the wiring can get melted by your exhaust tubing. Mine were stuck on to the exhaust tubing but it only melted the heat shield.

So thats probably why the wiring is missing, the PO probably don't use it so he never replace it after it burnt.
 

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