I have supplied several power steering pumps to board members over the last few years but I do not recall any of them detailing the actual replacement.
Mine has been seeping out the back cover for some time now and I decided that I wanted to replace it in preparation for our annual trip to Cruise Moab.
I respectfully submit my observations regarding this job:
Preparation:
Have on hand a new pump, body o-ring, high pressure gaskets and a quart of PS fluid.
In addition, a well-stocked tool box with metric tools, torque wrenches and a gear puller is a must.
I started by removing the high-pressure line banjo-bolt. This requires a 22mm socket, a wobbly and enough extensions to get your ratchet/breaker bar hooked up so that you clear the battery box.
In my case the high pressure port broke loose from the pump body before the banjo bolt let go and as a result I had to head back to the tool box. I selected a 13/16 open-end wrench and fitted it to the high pressure port so that I could hold it in place as I broke the banjo-bolt loose. After I removed the banjo-bolt I removed the return hose that goes from the reservoir to the pump outlet. I used Vicegrips to compress the clamps that retain the hose.
The next step involves removing the nuts (2) that retain the pump. I used a 14mm socket and a long breaker-bar to break the nuts loose. I got the lower one from under the vehicle and the upper one from the engine compartment. I then removed the nuts.
The pump comes out from under the vehicle. Once is has beeen removed it is necessary to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I used a 17mm socket and an impact wrench to remove the nut. I then used a two jaw puller to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I ended up using my impact wrench to rattle the puller enough to pop the gear off.
After the gear was removed I transfered the gear and key to the new pump. I used my impact wrench to install the nut on the shaft (torque spec 54lbft). I then installed a new o-ring to the pump body and re-installed the pump from under the vehicle.
The pump attaching nuts are torqued to 27lbft. At this point I reinstalled the return hose from the reservoir to the pump and I added some fluid until it started to come out of the high-pressure port and the hose. At that point I reinstalled the highpressure line with a new gasket.
I then torqued the banjo bolt to 54lbft and added enough fluid to get close to the line.
Next step is to start the engine and check for leaks. Turn the wheel side-to-side several times to bleed air out and heat the system. Add fluid to the correct level and congratulate yourself on a job well done.......
D-
EDIT NOTE:
The 17mm nut retaining the pump gear requires a 12 point socket.
I held the gear with a gloved hand (very heavy leather) when I rattled the nut off and on. It is possible to put the gear in a soft-jawed vice and use a breaker bar but I prefer not to subject the teeth to that stress. The impact makes quick work of the nut. It would be impossible to hold the gear by hand and remove the nut with a hand wrench.
Mine has been seeping out the back cover for some time now and I decided that I wanted to replace it in preparation for our annual trip to Cruise Moab.
I respectfully submit my observations regarding this job:
Preparation:
Have on hand a new pump, body o-ring, high pressure gaskets and a quart of PS fluid.
In addition, a well-stocked tool box with metric tools, torque wrenches and a gear puller is a must.
I started by removing the high-pressure line banjo-bolt. This requires a 22mm socket, a wobbly and enough extensions to get your ratchet/breaker bar hooked up so that you clear the battery box.
In my case the high pressure port broke loose from the pump body before the banjo bolt let go and as a result I had to head back to the tool box. I selected a 13/16 open-end wrench and fitted it to the high pressure port so that I could hold it in place as I broke the banjo-bolt loose. After I removed the banjo-bolt I removed the return hose that goes from the reservoir to the pump outlet. I used Vicegrips to compress the clamps that retain the hose.
The next step involves removing the nuts (2) that retain the pump. I used a 14mm socket and a long breaker-bar to break the nuts loose. I got the lower one from under the vehicle and the upper one from the engine compartment. I then removed the nuts.
The pump comes out from under the vehicle. Once is has beeen removed it is necessary to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I used a 17mm socket and an impact wrench to remove the nut. I then used a two jaw puller to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I ended up using my impact wrench to rattle the puller enough to pop the gear off.
After the gear was removed I transfered the gear and key to the new pump. I used my impact wrench to install the nut on the shaft (torque spec 54lbft). I then installed a new o-ring to the pump body and re-installed the pump from under the vehicle.
The pump attaching nuts are torqued to 27lbft. At this point I reinstalled the return hose from the reservoir to the pump and I added some fluid until it started to come out of the high-pressure port and the hose. At that point I reinstalled the highpressure line with a new gasket.
I then torqued the banjo bolt to 54lbft and added enough fluid to get close to the line.
Next step is to start the engine and check for leaks. Turn the wheel side-to-side several times to bleed air out and heat the system. Add fluid to the correct level and congratulate yourself on a job well done.......
D-
EDIT NOTE:
The 17mm nut retaining the pump gear requires a 12 point socket.
I held the gear with a gloved hand (very heavy leather) when I rattled the nut off and on. It is possible to put the gear in a soft-jawed vice and use a breaker bar but I prefer not to subject the teeth to that stress. The impact makes quick work of the nut. It would be impossible to hold the gear by hand and remove the nut with a hand wrench.
Last edited:
. My dad and I just replaced the power steering pump and the whole power steering gear box unit. Something I learned today, don't be cheap and spend the $35.00 for the pittman arm removal tool, cuz that bi@th is not coming out for nothing-don't waste your time and effort! 
