Project Onboard Air: York Compressor (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 11, 2007
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Location
Nashville, TN
So after reading about the York compressor install (here and here, as well as someone on this board, but I can't remember who!), I decided to go for it. I went over to Sunland, CA today and visited 5 junkyards looking for an AC compressor out of an 80's Volvo. Most guys had no cars that old or the shop was closed on Saturdays. Finally, I remembered a local U-Pick place had loads of Volvos, and I had my tools in my truck, so I figured I would give it a shot. About an hour later and $22 out-of-pocket, I now have a York compressor to do my onboard air project, which I will document here.

UPDATE: since my plan changed lots throughout this thread and the project is long done, I figured I'd update here with what I ended up doing:

I went with the Slee bracket (including new water pump pulley with triple grooves) and a 5-gallon tank mounted above the spare. I used braided stainless steel line from the compressor output to the manifold (through a coalescing filter) in the engine bay, which has the pressure switch/relay unit and quick-disconnect mounted up there. From the manifold a line runs to the rear tank, which has the pressure release (safety) valve and a tank drain via cable-pull. Since I have no spare tire mounted there, I ran the cable pull through a slit in the bumper that allows me to lock the tank open to drain after using.

Compressor with Kilby connectors attached:
DSC_0022.JPG


Tank (you can still fit the tire up here as well):
DSC_0007%202.JPG


Compressor Mounted:
DSC_0079.JPG


Hose setup:
DSC_0094.JPG


Valve allows you to see tank pressure as it builds as well as check pressure on the tire as you fill it:
DSC_0096.JPG


Here's the manifold in the engine bay (from left to right): pressure switch/relay, quick disconnect, output to tank, input from compressor (through coalescing filter). This was actually pretty easy to install by removing the windshield wiper cowl (to get access to put nuts on the bolts).
manifold.jpg


Drain valve activator:
DrainValve.jpg
 
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I have a BRAND new york unit (10cfm big dawg) sitting in my garage.

It has no clutch, but it is BRAND new!

$200 and its yours! :D
 
Pull that clutch off the unit and inspect it.

Hard to imagine the coil is bad on a unit that looks that good.

More likely you have a rust issue. The coil is separate from the clutch (but you can't buy them that way anywhere I have found).

Take the coil and connect it to a good battery (or charger), make certain you have a good ground.

Then...take something metallic (thin) and see if it sticks to the coil. If it does...you have a rusty clutch...clean it up.

If it doesn't....the clutch is knackered and you'll have to go to plan B.
 
I was one that installed the Onboard Air System.

I agree, go back and get a few more of the York compressors, in fact I would nab two or three of them. Then you have plenty of backups incase something fails in one of them.
 
That clutch looks way newer than mine and mine works fine. I'd get alot of brake cleaner and get your wire brush out and clean up the entire york, then take the pulley/clutch off and see if you can't clean it by hand and get it working. These york units last f-o-r-e-v-e-r

Also, my local napa was able to get me hose-barb fittings with gaskets for the top of the york. The had a selection of pulleys+clutches and I'd suspect they'd be cheaper than kilby.
 
Thanks guys! I'll pull it apart today and see if I can get it working. Worse comes to worst, I found that Autozone has some re manufactured clutches for $45 and it looks like it includes the coil. But then again, I would likely just go back and grab another unit for the spare parts... the yard I went to had probably 50+ Volvos of this era.

-Phil
 
Don't know how many you'll find but I pulled mine off an old late 70's mercedes diesel and it works like a charm. Sounds like you've got alot to source from though ;)
 
So I took the pulley/clutch and coil off today to clean up. After cleaning everything up, the whole assembly works flawlessly! Now I've got to look into mounting it. Thinking about the slee kit... are there any others out there for the 1FZFE?

Before:
DSC_0007.JPG



After:
DSC_0022.JPG


Thanks,
Phil
 
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There is a very cool way to do this somewhere on Mud, I searched for you but I can't find it. Memory going bad :bang:

This one fabs a simple bracket on the side of the head and uses the same belt groove as the factory A/C compressor. It also eliminates the factory belt tensioner by virtue of being able to adjust the belt with the York.

Do yourself a favor and try to find it. Seems very innovative if you have some fab skills. Sorry, wish I were more help. It was within February sometime that I saw the post. :meh:

Dan.
 
I'm thinking that's the slee / greatlakeswaterjet bracket.

I like mine alot, the only thing I noticed was some roughness in the engine in the 2-2.5k rpm range and it is very difficult to get the belt tensioned properly.

I also do kinda worry that all that weight hanging off the side of the head is not good for it; it's not dampened at all and all the bumps are transmitted straight into 3 bolts (at least in my case) on the head. As you well know the big-daddy compressor weighs a pretty decent amount and when you put it on a pivot arm like that I do sorta wonder about the structural integrity of the head over a long period of time.




No problems to report yet, though :grinpimp: Still on the original HG too (knock on wood :eek:)
 
YES! found what I was looking for. It was one of those things that I couldn't let go. A little OCD, I'll admit, but hey, I found it!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/198339-neat-oba-write-up.html

Check it out. It's different than Slee's, but seems more simple, but to NaterGator's point, if you could tie in to the front of the head, that would improve the strength and loading on the head.


G/L and post up what you do. Dan.
 
YES! found what I was looking for. It was one of those things that I couldn't let go. A little OCD, I'll admit, but hey, I found it!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/198339-neat-oba-write-up.html

Check it out. It's different than Slee's, but seems more simple, but to NaterGator's point, if you could tie in to the front of the head, that would improve the strength and loading on the head.


G/L and post up what you do. Dan.

yeah I don't have any fab skills, and lumpdog (who did the aforementioned writeup) wasn't willing to sell me one due to the fact that his is a 1-off and he couldn't guarantee fitment (which I completely understand BTW lumpdog!)

I am thinking I'm gonna save up for the slee one or maybe find someone to fab one up.
 
I'm thinking that's the slee / greatlakeswaterjet bracket.

I like mine alot, the only thing I noticed was some roughness in the engine in the 2-2.5k rpm range and it is very difficult to get the belt tensioned properly.

I also do kinda worry that all that weight hanging off the side of the head is not good for it; it's not dampened at all and all the bumps are transmitted straight into 3 bolts (at least in my case) on the head. As you well know the big-daddy compressor weighs a pretty decent amount and when you put it on a pivot arm like that I do sorta wonder about the structural integrity of the head over a long period of time.




No problems to report yet, though :grinpimp: Still on the original HG too (knock on wood :eek:)


IIRC, David has a new design that mounts the York closer to the engine and allows for more room to install a second battery.

He also added a tensioner at the bottom of the mount.

Supposedly, he has one on his truck. He will do them on a one off basis.
 
IIRC, David has a new design that mounts the York closer to the engine and allows for more room to install a second battery.

He also added a tensioner at the bottom of the mount.

Supposedly, he has one on his truck. He will do them on a one off basis.

Are you referencing the Slee model?

Would I be able to use the Slee model in the configuration like lumpdog's setup - meaning I would delete the tensioner and run a single belt from the water pump - york - outer crank groove?

I like this setup better I think because it doesn't add stress to the WP pulley as the additional groove does on the standard slee setup...
 
OK, so here's my current schematic - let me know if you guys see any potential issues with it! Your feedback is much appreciated since this is my first foray into any type of air system.


onboardair.jpg
 
You are going to want a coalescing filter before your manifold because the yorks blow by alot of oil, and it becomes ALOT of oil at higher revs. Not to mention it will keep moisture and dirt down in the system and protect the switch, etc. It will also keep you from having to open the bung on your tank as often.
 
Are you referencing the Slee model?
Would I be able to use the Slee model in the configuration like lumpdog's setup - meaning I would delete the tensioner and run a single belt from the water pump - york - outer crank groove?

I like this setup better I think because it doesn't add stress to the WP pulley as the additional groove does on the standard slee setup...

No, (unless Slee has the updated model now). The improved/different model is from greatlakeswaterjet, he is doing "one off" orders from my last correspondence with him.

The new model is shorter and has a tensioner. He is supposed to email me some pics of the one on his truck.
 
OK, so here's my current schematic - let me know if you guys see any potential issues with it! Your feedback is much appreciated since this is my first foray into any type of air system.
QUOTE]

You won't be happy with that design. As mentioned, the Yorks blow copious amounts of oil/water/poop. Have a looksee at my design on my website. I put the tank first in line to collect the liquids and solids, followed by the coalescing filter to remove the airborne poop. That feeds the regulator and then out to the system.
 
Also, my local napa was able to get me hose-barb fittings with gaskets for the top of the york. The had a selection of pulleys+clutches and I'd suspect they'd be cheaper than kilby.

Got part numbers for those NAPA hose barbs & such?!
Thanks
 

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