good info. what exactly do you need to clean inside the VAF? Is that picture a before or after cleaning?
Build Project: Domino Effect ('94)
- Thread starter Bigtoepfer
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- #42
Likely after. You need a razer blade to cut the silicon that seals the cap on.
If you are old school then a pencil eraser for the contacts inside. Alcohol and cotton swabs. Honestly I treated it like the inside of an old NES cartridge. I cleaned the contacts that the armiture rides on. You can see the black jagged silicon contact? It's a little worn? It's definitely not going to last 100 years. Another 10-20 maybe. I hope.
But I cleaned that surface with the cotton swab that had alcohol on it.
The copper arm that slides on it I cleaned the bottom of it with the pencil eraser.
Then Reassembled. New silicon to reseal the plastic lid.
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- #43
So passenger side rear is 130-133* after 65-70mph and 3+hours on the highway, some braking and then coming to a stop at the house. Drivers side is ~120* I'm a little concerned about the 10* difference, but it might be negligible. Wondering if maybe I put too much grease in the hub cavity, or maybe too much preload on the bearings. Gonna check the mpg numbers tonight not that they will be super accurate due to the mountain roads. Probably come back and edit this.
I will say the output on the T-case was 200*. I'm not sure if that is too hot or not. The t-case itself is like 130-155 depending where you measure it. Seems hot for the output though at least to me. Recently before redoing the wheel bearings I measured it at 170*, 155*, and 193* after different trips. The 193* was after 3hr of 70mph driving. So its not like its drastically changed from before. I meant to check it when stopping for gas in the mountains in Oklahoma and kept forgetting.
At the moment not SUPER concerned about the hubs, but would definitely like to sort the noise out and starting to narrow it down to the pinion or output of t-case. I really don't feel like removing the driveshaft though.
I will say the output on the T-case was 200*. I'm not sure if that is too hot or not. The t-case itself is like 130-155 depending where you measure it. Seems hot for the output though at least to me. Recently before redoing the wheel bearings I measured it at 170*, 155*, and 193* after different trips. The 193* was after 3hr of 70mph driving. So its not like its drastically changed from before. I meant to check it when stopping for gas in the mountains in Oklahoma and kept forgetting.
At the moment not SUPER concerned about the hubs, but would definitely like to sort the noise out and starting to narrow it down to the pinion or output of t-case. I really don't feel like removing the driveshaft though.
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- #44
My bearing preload can't be THAT bad. Coming back from Oklahoma, driving over the mountains and trying to maintain 60mph going up the mountains in 3rd or even 2nd gear sometimes it seemed like. 
I was expecting closer to 12 considering I'm running at ~6400lb. But I averaged over the trip 12-14mpg across 3 fill ups.
I was expecting closer to 12 considering I'm running at ~6400lb. But I averaged over the trip 12-14mpg across 3 fill ups.
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- Thread starter
- #45
Couple of weeks ago put just over 2500 miles on the 80 going to and from Buena Vista, CO, with some wheeling in the mountains while we were there. No major issues. Burped fuel out of the filler, my charcoal canister is definitely cooked, after pulling the tank vent from the canister I never had any more issues. On the way my trip meter broke, so that was cool. Oh and my horn stopped working. Hit it at some point and nothing came out, went to turn on emergency blinkers later and they didn't work. Found out the hard way they are connected. After returning home I found out that one of the horns must have some kind of short in it, because with one of them disconnected everything works fine. Guess I'll be replacing that too sooner than later.
1. Charcoal Canister replacement
2. Sort out replacement for trip meter
3. Horns?
4. Sort out noise from drive train, possibly bearings IN the rear third member?
No real problems with heat in the drive train on the drive. Gas mileage was good, power was also good in the mountains on the passes. I'm still confused by the complaints I hear about the 80 and 1FZ. Maybe because I have a part time conversion. But I feel like it had plenty of power to hold 60 or 65 up all the passes we did. I never had a reason to get on I-70, but I'm pretty sure it would do that fine too. Since Cottonwood pass is 1000ft higher than I-70 and I had zero issues there. Nice to find it was totally paved and very nice to drive on though, since I hadn't been to that area since 2018.
Top of Mt. Princeton.
Dry "Water Crossing" along Mirror Lake on Tincup pass. First time I've seen it like this, but my first time going so late in the season.
Still one of my favorite passes in Colorado is Mosquito Pass.
I haven't gone out of my way to calculate mileage since the trip meter broke, but I have been logging start and stop mileage at fuel ups in a notebook now, which is a PITA. Interested to see how it did, so I'll probably go through all that later. And also sort out how to take apart my cluster and possibly fix/replace that trip meter, and probably do the "D" light at the same time.
Mostly I'm just glad we made the trip with no major issues.
Edit: Oh! there was one issue that I need to sort. When we got down into Texas I checked tire pressure and noticed I was down about 8psi, figured it was a good time to fill up and let the family stretch their legs. Took out the hose, turned on the ARB and got about two tires done then it turned off. Didn't trip the main breaker, the fridge was till working, specifically the 80A for the compressor blew, found out when I got home. Its not the most convenient to get to, and I also didn't have any spares for that with me. Did replace it when I got home and tested it was working. Not sure what caused it to blow though. I'm thinking I can hear a leak at the compressor though. Might pull the seat and check all the air connections to be sure everything is solid. Since its all just those sharkbite type connectors on the plastic tube. Or look into another way to run the air to the airchuck that is more reliable.
1. Charcoal Canister replacement
2. Sort out replacement for trip meter
3. Horns?
4. Sort out noise from drive train, possibly bearings IN the rear third member?
No real problems with heat in the drive train on the drive. Gas mileage was good, power was also good in the mountains on the passes. I'm still confused by the complaints I hear about the 80 and 1FZ. Maybe because I have a part time conversion. But I feel like it had plenty of power to hold 60 or 65 up all the passes we did. I never had a reason to get on I-70, but I'm pretty sure it would do that fine too. Since Cottonwood pass is 1000ft higher than I-70 and I had zero issues there. Nice to find it was totally paved and very nice to drive on though, since I hadn't been to that area since 2018.
Top of Mt. Princeton.
Dry "Water Crossing" along Mirror Lake on Tincup pass. First time I've seen it like this, but my first time going so late in the season.
Still one of my favorite passes in Colorado is Mosquito Pass.
I haven't gone out of my way to calculate mileage since the trip meter broke, but I have been logging start and stop mileage at fuel ups in a notebook now, which is a PITA. Interested to see how it did, so I'll probably go through all that later. And also sort out how to take apart my cluster and possibly fix/replace that trip meter, and probably do the "D" light at the same time.
Mostly I'm just glad we made the trip with no major issues.
Edit: Oh! there was one issue that I need to sort. When we got down into Texas I checked tire pressure and noticed I was down about 8psi, figured it was a good time to fill up and let the family stretch their legs. Took out the hose, turned on the ARB and got about two tires done then it turned off. Didn't trip the main breaker, the fridge was till working, specifically the 80A for the compressor blew, found out when I got home. Its not the most convenient to get to, and I also didn't have any spares for that with me. Did replace it when I got home and tested it was working. Not sure what caused it to blow though. I'm thinking I can hear a leak at the compressor though. Might pull the seat and check all the air connections to be sure everything is solid. Since its all just those sharkbite type connectors on the plastic tube. Or look into another way to run the air to the airchuck that is more reliable.
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How are you liking the XTs?
Walmart had the 37x12.5s for $227 per which would make the hop to 37s way easier to justify.
Walmart had the 37x12.5s for $227 per which would make the hop to 37s way easier to justify.
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- #47
Awesome, zero regrets 10/10 would buy again. For that price it's a no brainer if you want that size. I talked to someone with a set of 40s and he said just wait till I had them in snow and I'd be doubly impressed.
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- #48
Snow, ice, and now freezing fog in Louisiana? Still gonna get to work. Pretty impressed with how well the Patagonia XTs handled the snow and ice though. Very little slipping.
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- #49
Finally sorted the 3rd member. New pinion bearing and carrier bearings. Definitely cooked and there was some play in it. So the wallet is a little lighter now.
Cooked pinion bearing, the other one fell apart. But you can see this one is blued.
Also picked up some ABS plug deletes from Dirt Church. Cheaper than the DVS ones since they are 3d printed from PETG instead of cut from aluminum. I'm curious to see how the PETG holds up. Don't mind the mess on the axle. I've cleaned all of it up and didn't think to do it before the photos. The guy I took it to do redo the 3rd member for me, overfilled the axle, and also used the wrong pinion seal so it leaked. I pulled the drums today while doing this, and checked for leaks at the axle seals. And also cleaned everything up. Just got it back today after he changed the pinion seal again, and fixed the gear oil level.
I feel like I perhaps should have looked more into how to change the bearings in the 3rd member myself, but I was lacking the tools for that, and felt it was a little outside my wheel house. Probably gonna take a road trip in it tomorrow, so gonna find out quick if it's leaking anywhere. The noise is mostly gone now.
Cooked pinion bearing, the other one fell apart. But you can see this one is blued.
I feel like I perhaps should have looked more into how to change the bearings in the 3rd member myself, but I was lacking the tools for that, and felt it was a little outside my wheel house. Probably gonna take a road trip in it tomorrow, so gonna find out quick if it's leaking anywhere. The noise is mostly gone now.
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- #50
Things I didn't expect to be doing in 2026
Leak was getting worse after it went back to the shop. This time he under filled it.
I drove to Dallas and back last weekend to get some stuff, and decided this week it was time to pull it apart and find out how bad it was. Had ordered new seals from CruiserTEQ to be ready.
Almost all grease was washed out of the outer bearing on both sides. Passenger side the axle seal came out with the axle. I think the whole process took me almost as long as the first time I did it because of the time it took to clean all the old grease out. At least I wasn't having to drive the races out and reinstall. My hands still remember the pain from that.
Passenger side was definitely the worst though because there was grease/oil running out the back of the brake mount.
Which is funny because when I changed the bearings in october there was almost NO grease in them only gear oil, but zero leaking and also no overheating at that time either.
Anyway hopefully the saga of the rear end is done. I've placed an order with DeltaVS for the replacement cylinders and keys so I can have all working lock cylinders. And while I'm at it bought a hand throttle lock as well. Figure I'll make it happy hopefully.
I've learned the hardway that my hood struts are all the way out though. Probably should have bought a prop rod instead.
Leak was getting worse after it went back to the shop. This time he under filled it.
I drove to Dallas and back last weekend to get some stuff, and decided this week it was time to pull it apart and find out how bad it was. Had ordered new seals from CruiserTEQ to be ready.
Almost all grease was washed out of the outer bearing on both sides. Passenger side the axle seal came out with the axle. I think the whole process took me almost as long as the first time I did it because of the time it took to clean all the old grease out. At least I wasn't having to drive the races out and reinstall. My hands still remember the pain from that.
Passenger side was definitely the worst though because there was grease/oil running out the back of the brake mount.
Which is funny because when I changed the bearings in october there was almost NO grease in them only gear oil, but zero leaking and also no overheating at that time either.
Anyway hopefully the saga of the rear end is done. I've placed an order with DeltaVS for the replacement cylinders and keys so I can have all working lock cylinders. And while I'm at it bought a hand throttle lock as well. Figure I'll make it happy hopefully.
I've learned the hardway that my hood struts are all the way out though. Probably should have bought a prop rod instead.
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- #51
Got my cylinders back from Delta VS for the rear hatch and glovebox, and all the new cylinders. I'm so happy to have more than one key now.
Very nice packaging. Sadly I lost the bolt that holds in my rear lock for the rear hatch. Luckily I still have the spring clip, but no idea why I would put the spring clip in my magnetic tray and not the bolt. I thought maybe I sent in the bolt in with the setup but I guess not.
Of course the bolt is discontinued. So I'll have to catch someone parting a truck out I guess. Luckily every lock uses the same bolt it seems.
I forgot how much of a pain in the ass taking off the surround for the dash is.
But man these new lock cylinders are beautiful.
And the hand throttle is nice. But it didn't have the intended consequence. Either its pissed off because I lost that bolt, or something else. Because now the drivers door speaker quit working.
I haven't tried to take it out to figure out the problem yet. I'll do that another day. But after pulling off both front door cards again which is something I've been trying to avoid for awhile, I'm leaning more towards orikawa door cards again. Every time I take them off they just fall apart a little more.
Very nice packaging. Sadly I lost the bolt that holds in my rear lock for the rear hatch. Luckily I still have the spring clip, but no idea why I would put the spring clip in my magnetic tray and not the bolt. I thought maybe I sent in the bolt in with the setup but I guess not.
Of course the bolt is discontinued. So I'll have to catch someone parting a truck out I guess. Luckily every lock uses the same bolt it seems.
I forgot how much of a pain in the ass taking off the surround for the dash is.
But man these new lock cylinders are beautiful.
And the hand throttle is nice. But it didn't have the intended consequence. Either its pissed off because I lost that bolt, or something else. Because now the drivers door speaker quit working.
I haven't tried to take it out to figure out the problem yet. I'll do that another day. But after pulling off both front door cards again which is something I've been trying to avoid for awhile, I'm leaning more towards orikawa door cards again. Every time I take them off they just fall apart a little more.
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Looks like a great trip, I love Buena Vista.I plan to live there some day. Maybe retirement
.
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- #53
Beer is better in NoCo, but the views are definitely better in Buena Vista.
I'm already planning what I want to do this summer. Kind of want to go back to Colorado or Utah, but my wife would be mad if I went to CO without her. Also considering GSMTR as an option. It'll be a solo trip just to get away from work for a week.
If gas prices get too crazy I might just have to throw the roof rack on the Prius and go camping in that instead.
Nice, if you make it out to CO and want other rigs to hit some trails with, let me know.Beer is better in NoCo, but the views are definitely better in Buena Vista.
I'm already planning what I want to do this summer. Kind of want to go back to Colorado or Utah, but my wife would be mad if I went to CO without her. Also considering GSMTR as an option. It'll be a solo trip just to get away from work for a week.
If gas prices get too crazy I might just have to throw the roof rack on the Prius and go camping in that instead.
We're looking at exploring some more of the less traveled areas here soon.
Ive heard North West Colorado is actually underrated, so i want to see for myself lol.
Also, leave the Prius at home.
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- #55
My wife and son will be in Japan for the summer so I'll be on my own. But think taking my son to see the dinosaur national monument area would be a lot of fun.
I had planned a trip there about five years ago then last minute we just ended up in Moab. I too want to explore that area. We've joked about moving back to Colorado and while my wife wants to live on the front range I'm more interested in the Western slope. I haven't spent enough time there to appreciate it enough.
I had planned a trip there about five years ago then last minute we just ended up in Moab. I too want to explore that area. We've joked about moving back to Colorado and while my wife wants to live on the front range I'm more interested in the Western slope. I haven't spent enough time there to appreciate it enough.