Rear Wheelbearings (1 Viewer)

[Jonathan_Ferguson]

Whilst my Car is sitting in the driveway doing nothing because the Engine is out off being rebuilt for the second time, I decided to changeout the gearoil. Having put the rear of the Car on stands I shook the tyres to check that the Car was steady. - I thought maybe the Wheelnuts were loose, so I got out the Torquewrench and set it to 90 ft/lbs. and got only an itty bit of movement out of 'em. After all this and looking at the four axle nuts, it appears that the rear wheelbearings are flogged out at 200,000 miles to the metre.

I know how to pull the Axle out in it's entirety, as I removed the third member back in the day to put a Lock Right in it.
I've looked in the Gregory Manual for the Hilux and the Toyota FSM for the BJ40 under the Semi Floater section, but it doesn't cover Wheelbearing replacement in enough detail.

What I want to know is if it's necessary to remove the Drum to facilitate the removal and replacement of the bearings and seals?
Any pointers you chaps would like to share?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I just did mine in August. I recommend you change the oil seal when you do the bearings. I used Marlin Crawler's new heavy duty rear oil seal and would recommend it but I'm sure an OEM one will be fine. You will also need an O-ring seal and a snap ring for each side. I don't recall needing any additional parts although you should do any necessary brake maintenance while you are in there (turn drums, new pads, etc.).

After doing front and rear axles, I actually need to go back in and replace all the wheel studs as I broke two off when we were putting the tires back on! So if you are having or suspect any issues with the studs, go ahead and change them as well.

You need to get the FSM.

 

[knixen]

rear wb are a pita... you need a large press to change them. And as mentioned you will need oil seals also. The rear wb usually start to leak oil before it is worn out.

Its not difficult, its just annoying...

 

[cruiser88]

rear wb are a pita... you need a large press to change them. And as mentioned you will need oil seals also. The rear wb usually start to leak oil before it is worn out.

Its not difficult, its just annoying...

naaa you do not need a press. Its nice but not 100% necessary.....but the next time I will have a blasted press! Just a little shop know how and you will figure how to get them off and on. A vice and heat really helps to get those suckers off.

To get them on I used a piece of pipe and tapped them right on. Heat to get them off.

Get the kit my man....trust us you will need it. Everything is pretty self explanatory but you do need that fsm!

 

[cruiser88]

Yea ....Somehow I lost two when taking out my studs:whoops:...have spares.

I just did mine in August. I recommend you change the oil seal when you do the bearings. I used Marlin Crawler's new heavy duty rear oil seal and would recommend it but I'm sure an OEM one will be fine. You will also need an O-ring seal and a snap ring for each side. I don't recall needing any additional parts although you should do any necessary brake maintenance while you are in there (turn drums, new pads, etc.).

After doing front and rear axles, I actually need to go back in and replace all the wheel studs as I broke two off when we were putting the tires back on! So if you are having or suspect any issues with the studs, go ahead and change them as well.

You need to get the FSM.

 

[bkgee]

...you should do any necessary brake maintenance while you are in there (turn drums, new pads, etc.)...

x2. I turned my drums and replaced the pads in October when I had it all apart for gear work etc. Except I did not replace the brake cylinders, and I wish I had. I have to go back in now to do that, as now I have a mess of brake fluid and new pad dust gumming up the works, and no rear brakes either. So if your cylinders look rancid, just do em. My new understanding is that new and properly adjusted pads create more stress than the old poorly adjusted ones did, and this may lead to failure of the cylinder as it did on mine.

 

[jasonmt]

naaa you do not need a press. Its nice but not 100% necessary.....but the next time I will have a blasted press! Just a little shop know how and you will figure how to get them off and on. A vice and heat really helps to get those suckers off.

To get them on I used a piece of pipe and tapped them right on. Heat to get them off.

Get the kit my man....trust us you will need it. Everything is pretty self explanatory but you do need that fsm!

A press is nice but the bearings are easily changed with a piece of plywood and well padded gloves (from here : Toyota Maintenance: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings and Seals ):

As well using heat is not a real good idea as I have seen a few axles fail at the clip location due to the heating affecting the heat treatment:

 

[cruiser88]

Yikes....I used a propane torch

 

[KLF]

My $0.02...

I tried that "pound on the ground" technique once. Once. Never again. I pounded like my life depended on it and that sucker would not come apart. I seriously thought I was gonna shatter the end of the shaft, or bend it.

I would never put heat on those axle shafts. Good way to ruin the heat treatment and hardness, then SNAP the next time you hammer the gas.

I have a press and a custom-made jig for doing the job now. It's the only way...

 

[cruiser88]

My $0.02...

I tried that "pound on the ground" technique once. Once. Never again. I pounded like my life depended on it and that sucker would not come apart. I seriously thought I was gonna shatter the end of the shaft, or bend it.

I would never put heat on those axle shafts. Good way to ruin the heat treatment and hardness, then SNAP the next time you hammer the gas.

I have a press and a custom-made jig for doing the job now. It's the only way...

My father in law just gave me a press tonight


never thought a little propane wouldhurt..thanks for the heads up

 

[KLF]

You'll need to make a special jig to pop the wheelbearings off, I made mine from an old axle housing:

Remove the snap ring, slide the jig on and snug up the 4 nuts, then put it in the press, it will make a loud BANG when the collar pops free.

Note the piece of wood on the floor to protect the wheel studs when the axle shaft falls out.

 

[WristPin]

exactly what i did KLF.

johnathan. it a truck, man. not a car

 

[cruiser88]

jebus....

exactly what i did KLF.

johnathan. it a truck, man. not a car

 

[Jonathan_Ferguson]

Today I got the Axles stripped down and put back together. Huge thanks go to Steve Perry
To get the Bearing Retainer off, Steve used a Dremel to cut part way through it then a Cold Chisel to loosen it up. Then he used the slam it down onto the ground method. - Worked perfectly.
Steve even put the piece of Pipe in the Lathe so it would be the best possible size to press the Bearing, Bearing Retainer and Circlip onto the Axle.
The only thing I would have liked to have done would of been using Rubber Grease on the outer Seal, in this instance we used regular Grease instead.

What we noticed was that the Bearings had been replaced before and the Seals have worn grooves into to their surfaces. Contrary to the norm, my Pickup Truck wasn't leaking oil.

 

[Jonathan_Ferguson]

Well damn it. I slid the Axles in, did everything up, put the Wheels on and the Wheel Bearings have the same amount of movement and make the same noise as the old ones did. - So long as the new Axle Seals don't leak, I'll be back at square one.

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot could it be, something else even?

Could someone go jack up their Hilux and shake their Wheels for me, thanks, I'm wondering if a small amount of wobble is normal.