Moving to Alaska... What should I do to my Cruiser

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 12, 2003
Threads
78
Messages
1,478
Location
Fresno, CA
Website
www.4x4him.com
I have an 84 FJ60 with the 2F. I have a OME heavy front med rear lift, with 33x12.50. The tires are about 30%. I am thinking about new tires for the winter but I want tires with studs so I was thinking about waiting untill I get up there for tires.

I dont know where I am heading but my wife and me are looking for work on line. I am mechanic so I will be taking all my tools. I have welding, machine shop, and CAT/heavy duity deisel schooling. I also have my EMT licence and will be getting my firefighter 1 cert at the end of may. If anyone can give me advice as to job possibilities up there thet would be great.

Thanks for any help.
 
Turn it into a woman. I hear there aren't so many up there.
 
Under coat it to stop rust and a block heater ...
 
Get a block heater installed...one of those that fits in the freeze plug locations (for coolant).
 
Good to see another CA guy up here. I am stationed up here but from Sactown area myself. You are going to be hating life when you cannot just drive over to Marlin Crawler and buy stuff. Shipping parts up here sucks!

You are sounding well qualifoed for many jobs up here. The enonomy is nothing like the lower 48 and has been fairly stable with MUCH better pay for similar work.

I am getting out of the service myself and noticed the Alaska railroad is hiring people with heavy equipment experience etc... slope jobs are difficult to land but if you find the right person to help you out you are in there!

EMT jobs do not seem mearly as compeditive up here as down in CA and keep in mind this is a very transient state. Many people come and go simply because of the climate...or being so far from family.

Anyway.. Cruiser will be fine as is. But I would run Synthetics throughout in the Winter months.

Luke
 
And my previous reply was obviously not proof read sorry about that! I swear we know how to spell up here!

I recommend a "tank heater" for your coolant instead of a block heater. They add a slight complexity to your coolant system but they are much better at keeping the block warm as well as actually circulating the coolant throughout the block and heater core. When you go to start your rig you will have Luke warm air instead of sub zero air as with the block heater.

Also if you going to reside in the Anchorage area your smog stuff needs to be up to par...which I assume it is living in Fresno. Not quate as loco as Cali smog laws but still picky about OEM gadgets etc... If you are driving up here I would not worry much about spare windshields headlights etc.... those were issues in the past..the Alcan is MUCH more friendly these days, but nothing wrong with over preparing.

More info than you requested but just incase you need it!

Check out Alaska Job Center Network as well as US JoBS etc... there never seems to be a surplus of good diesel mechanics up here and the fact that you are certified helps a lot.
 
Thanks for the help. Do you prefer any brand of tank heater? Would you recomend a batt heater blanket?

Knowing Marlin personaly is cool when you can walk in and they all know you by name. My wife and I have talked about in and we are going to give it 1-2 years and see how we like it. Hopefully I will be able to meat you up there.

Thanks
 
I'll x2 on expensive shipping. I live in Fairbanks, which sees -50 at least a few times and -40 for extended periods. I run synthetics in everything, Toyota red coolant good down to -65, Block heater, battery tender, battery blanket, oil pan heater, and a tranny heater. I run BFG AT's year round with no problem. Rust is not a problem up here as we are nowhere near the coast and do not salt the roads. Also, no smog police up here! ;)


Lots of work up on the slope, or military bases, also construction companies hire like crazy in the Summer for decent wages. you shouldn't have trouble finding or keeping a good paying job with your skill set as long as you are a good, consistent worker.

TK
 
Last edited:
Yeah marlin is an awesome guy. I remember him giving me a VERY generous core refund on some old t cases and thirds I had laying around. I am not sure if you knew Dean, I bought all my parts from him when I was building my mini truck for crawling...some drunk driver took his life there in Fresno.

Anyway, try this out Amazon.com: zerostart

I believe zerostart are the only ones who make them. I would honestly hold off on install until you are up here incase something causes issues like air in the system etc as you are headed up here. It should stay warm up here till october. Although we just got clobbered with another storm today.

Battery blankets are necessary for Fairbanks climates or if you anticipate the truck being parked outside for long periods. I run audessey batteries or optimas if I can find one that holds a charge...which is never it seems.

Studded tires are optional although they do make a remarkable difference on certain surfaces. However it is not the constant arctic doom and gloom many people assume I is. But they are great for shortening your stopping distance a few ft. I personally hate contributing to the ruts they chew into the roads, you will see ( kinda like Reno roads in winter)

I'd love to cross paths. I have some good friends in Fresno and my old ex is from chowchilla haha.

Oh and Mark W is your resident cruiser go to guy if you need anything cruiser related. He lives out here in Wasilla.
 
If you're a diesel mechanic, there should be plenty of opportunities in state with abundant mining, tour bus and marine applications. Locally, we have all of the above, including both Greens Creek and Kensington mines. Here's one job: http://www.kensingtongold.com/jobs/Underground Diesel Mechanic and Welder - 112010.pdf In general, I'd advise you to head towards Anchorage, since it holds about half of the state's population. If you come to my region, however (SE),you would'nt need any of that stuff for your cruiser. Nope, not even studs.
 
The suggestion to use an external tank heater is based on faulty premise

The tank heaters circulate only via convection. There is no pump. A freeze plug heater creates convective circulation also. However since it is inside the block is is not dumping most of the heat to thew surrounding air the way the external tank heater is. There is a reason the the external; heaters are rated in the 1200 to 2000 watt range and the freeze p;lugs heaters draw 400-600 watts. That is a good indication of the difference in how effective they are.

External tanks are subject to rusting and other adverse impacts that plug heaters are not. and the hoses involved are potential weak links. It can be difficult to run the lines to get a god flowing circulation pattern also.


External heaters are a poor second choice to freeze plug heaters.

The only time I choose a tank heater is when I am setting up an intake manifold heater on a 2 F with a header.

There are at least two manufacturers of freeze plug heaters (Katz and Zero-Start). Probably more, but these are the two that I have here to glance at and the ones I usually use.


Mark...
 
Turn it into a woman. I hear there aren't so many up there.

I'd say he's got his hands full with one wife in the bag.

Find a unused area of the cruiser and pack it full of vitamin B12, Vit D, ginkgo, and St. Johns Wort for those unruly winter nights...

And just go.
 
Great info from all. Is there a better freeze plug to put the block heater in, or just the easiest to get to? What are the laws regarding aux driving lights?

Thanks
 
Now Mark be fair.... How many people do you know who backed out of their driveway still plugged in... Ripping the block heater from engine block...consequently dumping coolant and then REALLY warming up their engine in short order ;)

I have used both and Mark is right about the energy usage, however it is simply another way to skin cat. I prefer to live on the edge with my block heater/tank heater selections.

Modern engines do not need them as much with fuel injection, however it has become an emissions issue so the state prefers plugging in at 20 deg to decrease rich running conditions at warmup.

Hey Mark, the head in my 88 got a clean bill of health From the machine shop! Rolling the dice worked ;)

Now go grab that 92 cruiser it only had 152,000 miles on it!
 
Absolutely no one I know or know of have done that... you shpold always secure the cord before it reaches the heater... and in any case the wire will simply come loose from the freeze plug heater. I HAVE seen that a few times. :)


I am waiting for Gary to call me back... Gonna read him the riot act for not calling me as soon as he brought it on. :)



Ideally, use one of the plugs in the center... in reality of makes little difference.

So long as you dim them for oncoming traffic you can run anything you want for aux lights.

I prefer sealed beam "Aircraft landing lights" since they do not fill up with water during river crossings like most lights with H3 bulbs will.


Mark...
 
Mark,
i have been using the lower rad heater for a few years now in different vehicles. what is your feelings about those?
 
The way I look at it... circulating through the rad to get back to the heater just dumps a hell of a lot of heat into the atmosphere. Seems to be a pretty ineffective approach to me. I like to keep the heat in the block myself.


Mark...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom