1970 Hardtop Glass W/S for side panels (1 Viewer)

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I need to install the glass on my 1970 HT. I've been looking at various places (SOR, CCOT, Cruiser Corps) and it seems that in 7/71 the top changed from the early version. Does anyone know what is different for the 7/71 side panel glass vs. a 1970 side panel glass? ETA: Refering to the actual weatherstripping to install the glass.

Nick
 
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I need to install the glass on my 1970 HT. I've been looking at various places (SOR, CCOT, Cruiser Corps) and it seems that in 7/71 the top changed from the early version. Does anyone know what is different for the 7/71 side panel glass vs. a 1970 side panel glass?

Nick

I asked that question of SOR and was told that the windows are slightly different sizes pre and post 7/71. Apparently the only window weatherstripping that is available for the early tops is the "universal fit" stuff that comes on a roll.
 
Is it cheaper to take the old glass (if you have it) to a local glass shop and have them cut a piece for you? I did that with my windshield. The windshield was $118.
 
Is it cheaper to take the old glass (if you have it) to a local glass shop and have them cut a piece for you? I did that with my windshield. The windshield was $118.

Thats what I did w/ my windshield too and took my cruiser to the same shop today and the guy told me that i needed OEM / Reproduction W/S to get it to work. Kind of suprised me, thought it wouldn't be that big of a deal for the side windows and rear hatch, don't really seem that different than the way the windshield was installed (universal W/S).

nick
 
the later glass is bigger and the gasket is 1 piece,the older gasket had a zipper .the key would be if the window openings were the same then the later glass and gasket would work.
 
I asked that question of SOR and was told that the windows are slightly different sizes pre and post 7/71. Apparently the only window weatherstripping that is available for the early tops is the "universal fit" stuff that comes on a roll.

Where can I buy a roll of this stuff?
 
Sorry Nick, I didn't pick up on your looking for the W/S... I thought you meant glass.

No more OEM stuff available? I haven't looked yet, but I need it for my 12/70 hard top also.

You could always use that super clear glass like your windshield... :p
 
Sorry Nick, I didn't pick up on your looking for the W/S... I thought you meant glass.

No more OEM stuff available? I haven't looked yet, but I need it for my 12/70 hard top also.

You could always use that super clear glass like your windshield... :p

yea, I have the glass, need the W/S to install it. I called and spoke w/ Cruiser Dan today, and up through 7/71 is manufacturer discountinued. It looks like SOR has it as a reproduction, but if I can get generic W/S to install the sides and back hatch, probably would be a lot cheaper than going w/ $OR.

Unfortunately, the ultra clear glass doesn't keep the wind and cool air out! :D
 
Nicholas, the universal gasket is available from Stan-Pro. Should be able to find it at any reputable glass shop in your area. The self locking gasket (750-690 as987) will work fine but the two piece (750428) is much closer to stock. It does require a locking lace. Make sure it is Stan-Pro because the off brand really is a PITA to set the glass into. If you have any Q's send me a PM. I worked in the autoglass industry for many years and don't have to keep TRADE SECRETS any more!!!
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Nick, post up how it works out and what the cost is. I bet lots of people would be interested. This should go into the FAQ's for sure!
 
I will.

I've found a supplier in Dallas that will sell me what I need.
It sounds like the AS1179 which is a Two-Piece Weatherstrip, 0.764" wide is $96.50 for a 50' coil. I figure I will use about half of this coil (<25') to install all the windows in the hardtop. With this you would also need AS937 which is the locking strip that goes inside of the weatherstrip (like Potato Launcher said), this is as close to OEM as you can get. On the locking strip, I was quoted .44 cents / foot. It sounds like you will also need a Filler Strip Tool which is the installation tool to install the locking strip inside of the weatherstrip.

I am now trying to find out if I can use this same weatherstrip to do the small 1/4 round windows in the rear, or if I need to buy premolded aftermarket W/S for this.

I'll post up what I find.

nick
 
Would this gasket also work for a 75 side? I've got a custom setup that will need custom length gasket for my glass.
 
Would this gasket also work for a 75 side? I've got a custom setup that will need custom length gasket for my glass.

With the split window? If so, I think it would work for any fixed piece of glass including sides and ambulance doors. I'm still trying to see if it is going to work for the 1/4 round windows.

I'm going to buy a roll and see how it fits.

Nick
 
The only draw back with this type of gasket is that you should use it end to end. I suppose one could 45 the corners on a late model for the straight runs but it needs to be exact or they will look like @$^%. The self locking (AS-987) is for quick installs and eliminates the need for a seperate locking strip. When using this gasket install it as tight to the body side as possible, do not use any lubricant on the pinchweld side and when joining the two ends make the length about 3/8" to long to compensate for the glass to stretch and seating of the gasket. Also make the seems meet on the middle bottom. When installing glass use water based lubricants, soapy water in a spray bottle is your best bet. Look around the Stan-Pro sit and you will find window felts and channel runs as well. These are available through your glass supply shop as well.
 
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The only draw back with this type of gasket is that you should use it end to end. I suppose one could 45 the corners on a late model for the straight runs but it needs to be exact or they will look like @$^%. The self locking (AS-987) is for quick installs and eliminates the need for a seperate locking strip.

So if they only sell it in a 50' strip, it is suppose to be used on a 50' section of window? Is there a tool that you can use to cut it to length that will give you the correct end-to-end look?

Would you suggest the AS987 over the AS1179 for our type of installs on FJ40 hard tops?

Nick
 
Im sorry for the confusion, the gasket is supposed to be one complete unit and not several small sections that fit together. This is how you would need to install on a late model hardtop with the wing window. The best tool I have found for cutting true&clean is wih a Crafstman Robo cutter, the one with the razor knife and anvil. It alows you to cut very straight & precise. Install the end of the gasket on the body lock side out and work it around the opening ending at the start, making sure to seat it on the pinchweld fully. The AS-987 will do the job but the 750428 looks better when locked.
 
Im sorry for the confusion, the gasket is supposed to be one complete unit and not several small sections that fit together. This is how you would need to install on a late model hardtop with the wing window. The best tool I have found for cutting true&clean is wih a Crafstman Robo cutter, the one with the razor knife and anvil. It alows you to cut very straight & precise. Install the end of the gasket on the body lock side out and work it around the opening ending at the start, making sure to seat it on the pinchweld fully. The AS-987 will do the job but the 750428 looks better when locked.

Ok, I follow now. Are these the cutters you are talking about?
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Do you have a recommendation for a Lockstrip Tool to install the AS937?

Nick
 
Nicholas, the universal gasket is available from Stan-Pro. Should be able to find it at any reputable glass shop in your area. The self locking gasket (750-690 as987) will work fine but the two piece (750428) is much closer to stock. It does require a locking lace. Make sure it is Stan-Pro because the off brand really is a PITA to set the glass into. If you have any Q's send me a PM. I worked in the autoglass industry for many years and don't have to keep TRADE SECRETS any more!!!

How does the Stan-Pro do in the tight radius curves at the four corners? I've probably only seen the off-brand stuff you warn about, but it was always puckered up in the corners intead of staying smooth and flat around the curve.
 

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