1970 Hardtop Glass W/S for side panels

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I ordered a 50' roll of the 2 piece weatherstrip and a 50' roll of the lock strip. I had to order a tool to install it too. It should be here early next week and I'll take some pictures of the pre and post install. If it all goes well, I'll have about 25' left over that if someone wants to buy it i'll sell it and the install tool for what I have in it.
 
Just got home from work and will post pictures of the tools you will need. The lacing tool is designed to insert the lace by opening the the gap enough to lock it in place. The Hook tool is used to lock the self locking gasket. White polystick(Windshield Bone) is used to manipulate the glass into the gasket. Cutters are what you had found on the Sears site.
The corner gap everyone asks about is dictated by how you install the gasket to the body. Gaps and corners not seating all depend on the fit of the glass to the opening. The gasket is 1/4" thick between the where the glass sits and where the pinchweld sits. This is called an Over/Under gasket. There is also offset available that puts the glass outside or inside the cab depending on your needs.
If the glass is cut 3/16" inside the pinchweld all the way around, this gasket will look perfect. Once the glass is in and the corners are a little off you can pull,or push linear to the glass and correct. A warm shop will also make the install much easier. When I did autoglass for a living it wasn't uncommon to run my truck with the heater on full blast so that the gasket would be very pliable and less rigid. Hope this helps and all questions are welcome.
paint November2010 036.webp
paint November2010 037.webp
 
Just got home from work and will post pictures of the tools you will need. The lacing tool is designed to insert the lace by opening the the gap enough to lock it in place. The Hook tool is used to lock the self locking gasket. White polystick(Windshield Bone) is used to manipulate the glass into the gasket. Cutters are what you had found on the Sears site.
The corner gap everyone asks about is dictated by how you install the gasket to the body. Gaps and corners not seating all depend on the fit of the glass to the opening. The gasket is 1/4" thick between the where the glass sits and where the pinchweld sits. This is called an Over/Under gasket. There is also offset available that puts the glass outside or inside the cab depending on your needs.
If the glass is cut 3/16" inside the pinchweld all the way around, this gasket will look perfect. Once the glass is in and the corners are a little off you can pull,or push linear to the glass and correct. A warm shop will also make the install much easier. When I did autoglass for a living it wasn't uncommon to run my truck with the heater on full blast so that the gasket would be very pliable and less rigid. Hope this helps and all questions are welcome.

This really should go in the FAQ!
 
Nick and I are hoping to get together and install with documentation for the Mud community. The job is fairly simple but the proper steps should be taken. Stay Tuned!!!!
 
Nick, you said you ordered a tool to install it. Is that the spline tool? I had a tough time installing the spline in my windshield. It would be nice to have a proper tool for it. I have never seen one before.

If you have half left over when you are finished that it should be enough for me to do my hard top too. In that case I'll buy the tool and remaining seal from you.
 
Steve I'll let you know how it goes. Potato Launcher is heading my way and we are going to try and take lots of pics and help anyone w/ the install. I'm looking forward to seeing how the install goes and what it looks like after its done. Lots of pics to come!

nick
 
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