1970 Column Shift Interference w/ Collector (1 Viewer)

[Sparkman86]

Rebuilding a 1970 '40 that a previous owner had installed a header. I've never seen this thing run and haven't ever driven it so trying to put the puzzle together.

I've got the steering column in and column shifter hooked up but when shifting back and down (I think this is 1st gear), the shift rod linkage nut is clunking into the header collector. I've seen references to header interference and some mods that can be done to fix, but couldn't find any info or pics of what the mods entail. Anyone run into this issue and actually solved it without converting to a floor shifter? Is this just an adjustment issue? It seems like the rod I should shorten to fix is the only one that can't be adjusted.

 

[Sparkman86]

Here is the header that is installed. I'm not sure the manufacturer, but it looks similar to JT Outfitter's.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I would think there is enough adjustment in the system to dial out the interference. Then there is always the chiropractic adjustment.

 

[Mark Jennings]

I think you have several options, 1) grind the flange, 2) you can reverse the ‘L’ link (at the clutch slave)…however that will give you a ‘short throw’ on the column….or 3) adjust the down link short and the horizontal link long.

Also the bushing at the end of the shift shaft (by the steering box), if it’s loose, everything drops.

 

[Sparkman86]

I think you have several options, 1) grind the flange, 2) you can reverse the ‘L’ link (at the clutch slave)…however that will give you a ‘short throw’ on the column….or 3) adjust the down link short and the horizontal link long.

Also the bushing at the end of the shift shaft (by the steering box), if it’s loose, everything drops.

I'd considered flipping the L arm since that would shorten the downward travel. It will change the angle of the shift arm though so TBD if that creates another issue.

Unfortunately, the horizontal linkage has no adjustment, which I think is where the adjustment is really needed. It's the fixed arm of the assembly circled in red.
I saw this post where someone fabbed a new linkage that was adjustable. That option was pretty slick, but just means more time and money to hope it solves the issue. Shift Linkage Rebuild? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/shift-linkage-rebuild.895146/post-10095756

As far as grinding the flange, I think you mean on the collector flange to muffler pipe? There isn't any interference there. The nut of the rod end that bolts through the L arm is contacting the side piping of the collector. I also considered grinding that nut down since it's only a few MM too long on the downward motion, but I think having it ride that close to the hot exhaust piping when in first gear will cause that rod end to fail (boiling the grease, melting the rod end boot, etc.).

 

[Sparkman86]

I would think there is enough adjustment in the system to dial out the interference. Then there is always the chiropractic adjustment.

"Chiropractic adjustment"

I did consider trying to bend an 'S' pattern into the L arm to move the linkage connection further outboard. I don't need much but am still a little concerned with the heat coming off the collector. I suppose I could always put some shielding there to protect the rod end.

 

[peesalot]

Bend L arm or shorten the offending end, flatten the little bead in the arm a bit and drill a new hole. Run adjustable rod end all the way up and yur done. A heat shield good but nothing to attach to so maybe wrap the exh ?

 

[Mark Jennings]

Post in thread 'How to remove shift lever rod in column shift'
How to remove shift lever rod in column shift - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-remove-shift-lever-rod-in-column-shift.1336907/post-15445505

I wrote this a while back and it may help.

As far as exhaust, I run the stock manifold and downpipe, so clearance isn’t and issue…..however, I wrapped my exhaust in a ceramic blanked from the manifold to the muffler. I used ‘Heatshield Products’ sheets (5ft x 12 in), it’s expensive, but keeps the heat away from clutch slaves, linkage, floorboards, and out of the engine compartment.

 

[charliemeyer007]

There are many ways to skin a cat; however none are approved by cats.

 

[Sparkman86]

Bend L arm or shorten the offending end, flatten the little bead in the arm a bit and drill a new hole. Run adjustable rod end all the way up and yur done. A heat shield good but nothing to attach to so maybe wrap the exh ?

This may be the way. I was able to gain a few millimeters clearance by loosening the motor mount bolt and swinging this clutch slave arm up to where it touches the motor mount. I no longer feel it bottom out on the exhaust, but it's still grazing it and doesn't leave much room for heat shielding. If I can't adjust it anymore, I think I like the new hole route. Wasn't looking forward to trying to cleanly bend this arm.

 

[Sparkman86]

Post in thread 'How to remove shift lever rod in column shift'
How to remove shift lever rod in column shift - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-remove-shift-lever-rod-in-column-shift.1336907/post-15445505

I wrote this a while back and it may help.

As far as exhaust, I run the stock manifold and downpipe, so clearance isn’t and issue…..however, I wrapped my exhaust in a ceramic blanked from the manifold to the muffler. I used ‘Heatshield Products’ sheets (5ft x 12 in), it’s expensive, but keeps the heat away from clutch slaves, linkage, floorboards, and out of the engine compartment.

Man, that is expensive. Summit Racing wants $240 for a 4x2' roll of Sticky Shield. Is that the stuff? I'll still need to figure out how to get some more clearance though because I definitely can't fit 1/8" anything between that linkage nut and the exhaust piping.

Heatshield Products 180023 Heatshield Products HP Sticky Shields | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Heatshield Products HP Sticky Shields with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Thanks for the info.

 

[MDH33]

Easiest solution would be sell the header and go back to a stock exhaust manifold.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Man, that is expensive. Summit Racing wants $240 for a 4x2' roll of Sticky Shield. Is that the stuff? I'll still need to figure out how to get some more clearance though because I definitely can't fit 1/8" anything between that linkage nut and the exhaust piping.

Heatshield Products 180023 Heatshield Products HP Sticky Shields | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Heatshield Products HP Sticky Shields with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Thanks for the info.

The blanket I got from Summit was not the sticky.

Heatshield Products 170105 Heatshield Products Armor Exhaust Heat Shields | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Heatshield Products Armor Exhaust Heat Shields with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Exhaust Heat Shields at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I got the .25 x 12 x 60 inch….also the SS tie-wraps and the tie-wrap tightening toot.

I’ve tried lava wrap, etc… this stuff holds up better and seems to control the radiant heat better. Yep, it is pricy….but it works and lasts.

 

[Sparkman86]

Easiest solution would be sell the header and go back to a stock exhaust manifold.

My intake manifold is welded closed at the heat riser and I'd need new downpipe, intake and exhaust manifold to make it work. I certainly wouldn't mind the original exhaust configuration but I'm antsy to get this on the road after owning it going on 8 years without ever hearing it start.

 

[Sparkman86]

The blanket I got from Summit was not the sticky.

Heatshield Products 170105 Heatshield Products Armor Exhaust Heat Shields | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Heatshield Products Armor Exhaust Heat Shields with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Exhaust Heat Shields at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I got the .25 x 12 x 60 inch….also the SS tie-wraps and the tie-wrap tightening toot.

I’ve tried lava wrap, etc… this stuff holds up better and seems to control the radiant heat better. Yep, it is pricy….but it works and lasts.

Ah OK. I'm definitely a fan of only doing it once so I'll check this out.