Safety wire the brake backing plate bolts?

[BrianSanDiego]

Heya' fellas.
Do you guys safety-wire the brake baking plate bolts?

FSM say install bolts and secure with new steel wire. I picked up some 19gauge galvanized steel wire but thinking about it, maybe I need to find stainless wire?

Basically, I think there are 3 ways to do something:
-The right way
-A good enough way
-A 1/2 azzed ****py way

Would just torquing the bolts to specs be good enough, or would red loctite be good enough, or is galvanized wire good enough/the right way, or should I go find stainless safety wire and be sure it is the right way?

What do y'all do, I trust your experience!

Thanks,
B.

 

[Poser]

Blue locktite after cleaning all threads with brake cleaner, and then run the wire through the fasteners like the FSM shows.....but that is probably just me.

 

[bsmith123]

safety wire

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/245035-intro-safety-wiring.html

make sure you dont use the heavy duty red loctite that takes heat to remove!

no reason why following OEM instructions would give you bad results but you could go with stainless and be fine too. I like the stainless--- nice to work with but I am used to using it a lot. Here's a post I did on safety wiring recently

 

[Coolerman]

I used stainless wire on mine. It's wire I got from Eastwood Company for hanging powder coated parts. I fgured if Toyota used it they had a good reason to.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Coolerman:

That wire is pretty much useless. What you need to do is run it in a "backwards S" pattern, basically make sure that if any one bolt loosens, that it pulls both bolts on either side of it tight.

Brian:

I'd go with the stainless safety wire. you can get it pretty easily through Eastwood or Aircraft Spruce and Specialty. You don't need the special safety wire pliers, as it could be done by hand easily and safely enough.

Interesting, the bolts on my FF axle didn't have holes in them, so I didn't safety them at all. The FSM didn't mention it either (at least I don't think it did)--is this a SF axle thing, or would it be a good idea to drill and safety the bolts on my FF backing plate?

Dan

 

[Coolerman]

Coolerman:

That wire is pretty much useless. What you need to do is run it in a "backwards S" pattern, basically make sure that if any one bolt loosens, that it pulls both bolts on either side of it tight.
Dan

I see what your saying about the reverse S, but what you see is exactly how mine came from the factory?

I still can't see how any one bolt could work loose with the wire in there regardless of the way it's threaded. This stainless wire is strong. I can always be taught something new though!

(BTW the bolts are also blue loctited.)

Here is a pic of my rebuild. These had never been taken apart....

 

[greytandy]

My knuckles had the same pattern as Coolerman's, but I think it is supposed to be an "S" so if one moves in the "loosen" direction the next will move to the "tighten" direction. I didn't bother replacing the wire. I just used blue loctite.

 

[crushr]

Mine looked just like coolerman's, and I believe it was that way from the factory, so when I reassembled it, I did exactly the same thing. It may not keep any one bolt from turning a few degrees, but I think it's far from "useless."

 

[bsmith123]

Safety Wire

As in most things the OEM did not do it "wrong" I think.

For aircraft we are not allowed to safety wire "neutral". I think not safety wiring neutral and doing the backward "s" pattern holds better but is not really necessary in this application.

Aircraft hardware and assemblies are a lot different than a FJ40---
I'm sure the neutral wire would never cause a problem, but if you like the backward "s" aircraft style--why not?

Don't think there's a worry either way

 

[Poser]

Interesting, the bolts on my FF axle didn't have holes in them, so I didn't safety them at all. The FSM didn't mention it either (at least I don't think it did)--is this a SF axle thing, or would it be a good idea to drill and safety the bolts on my FF backing plate?

That is a full float axle assembly pictured; however it is the front and not the rear.


The drum brake knuckles use 8mmx1.25 hardware to secure the spindle to the knuckle along with the .040” wire, which as pictured, is exactly how is it was done at the factory, and, is also, IAW ( in accordance with ) the Factory Service Manual repair procedures.


The disc brake knuckles use 10mmx1.25 hardware to secure the spindle to the knuckle and does not use/require a mechanical safety on the fasteners.

I am not aware of a Toyota rear full float axle assembly used in a 40 series that had a bolt on spindle, and there is no real reason to safety tie bolts that secure a brake backing plate only; at least not in this application.

 

[BrianSanDiego]

Great, thanks for the replies fellas!
Mine has 164Kmiles and it had a very nice twisted and S-turned safety wire. Original maybe, but who knows....

I picked up stainless wire today at an industrial hardware store in town.

Thanks a lot, again!
B.

 

[MartynFJ4071]

Reviving this old thread as I have a related question.
A couple of the backing plate bolts broke on re install. Are they still available? And if so, does someone have the part number please?
If not, what is a suitable replacement? Is it regular bolts, spring washers and lock tite?
Obviously the wire was there for a reason but if I can’t buy the bolts anymore I may have to go without.
Thanks in advance