Emergency Brake Options (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 19, 2006
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Hello All,

I'm wondering if anyone has retrofitted their emergency brake cable (drum type) in a different location. With moving and relplacing my driveline with the NV4500 and and after buying a longer cable for the brake engager, the cable is still too short.. I'm at a with what to do.... Pictures would be helpful.

Best,


UNO
 
UNO, check with Kurt at Cruiseroutfitters.com he may have a longer than stock cable. The only other solution I can think of would be to relocate the parking brake lever to the transmission hump, but that would take some booty-fabbing, no doubt. The later cruisers had it on the hump, but I think it went to the rear drums, not the TC brake.
I like the driveline brake because it can lock all four wheels(if in 4WD) so it won't roll if you jack up the rears.

GL:beer:


Ed
 
Contact these people directly and send them pictures of your parking brake cable ends, and they can make you one exactly how long you want. This will be your best option to keep a functioning parking brake on the back of the transfer case. They have made custom parking brake cables for me and they work great.



:beer:
 
On a related topic, I just replaced my stock speedometer with a digital, and needed to replace the speedo cable with a sending unit.

It wouldn't fit because of the parking brake cable interference.

Solution? I took the parking brake housing off the transfer case, drilled new bolt holes 3/4 inch rotated clockwise, which rotated the case CCW, and put it back on. Didn't have to change the brake cable, as there was about 3 in of play.

As an aside, if you want to keep that brake working properly, you need to replace the rear seal on the transfer case mor often than most of us do it.
 
UNO, check with Kurt at Cruiseroutfitters.com he may have a longer than stock cable. The only other solution I can think of would be to relocate the parking brake lever to the transmission hump, but that would take some booty-fabbing, no doubt. The later cruisers had it on the hump, but I think it went to the rear drums, not the TC brake.


GL:beer:


Ed

Almost, Ed. 79 and 80 model years featured the e-brake handle on the tranny hump AND still used a t-case e-brake drum.

Poser's options certainly sounds worthy of further investigation.

UNO, post back up on how you resolve this. Good info fo sho.

Best

Mark A.
 
If your in the western states. Six States Distributors (based here in SLC but locations in OR, WA, WY, ID, AK)... stop in with your old cable. They have a cable shop that can make just about anything. We've had them make some extended cables in the past... not super cheap, but its your brakes! :eek:
 
I actually bought a cable from BTB: http://store.btbprod.com/detail.aspx?ID=229

I think the lenght will work, but I can's get the spin nuts off to replace the firewall mounting plate. I'm thinking that I'll use a dremel tool to remove the backing threads on the new cable so I can remove the bolts; allowing me to slip the mounting through the cable. I hope this is going to work, but I have to wait until the truck is painted and ready for reassembally.

Best,

UNO

I'll keep you posted.
 
What sending unit did you use? How did you make it bolt into the 'case? Do you have pictures of that setup?

I installed an Auto Meter Model 5291 sending unit. It screws right on where you would screw on the speedometer cable. Like I mentioned before, if you have a functional parking brake that you would like to keep, you will need to rotate the brake housing about 3/4 of an inch, so that the unit will fit along side the brake cable.

Its a 3 wire unit. 1 goes to ignition 12v positive, one goes to engine ground, and the other to the speedometer.

I bought it at a hotrod shop, and they use it even with analog speedos. I think I paid about $56 for it.

Since I currently have it up on jacks, I will crawl under and take some pics.
 
I installed an Auto Meter Model 5291 sending unit. It screws right on where you would screw on the speedometer cable. Like I mentioned before, if you have a functional parking brake that you would like to keep, you will need to rotate the brake housing about 3/4 of an inch, so that the unit will fit along side the brake cable.

Its a 3 wire unit. 1 goes to ignition 12v positive, one goes to engine ground, and the other to the speedometer.

I bought it at a hotrod shop, and they use it even with analog speedos. I think I paid about $56 for it.

Since I currently have it up on jacks, I will crawl under and take some pics.



How about an update on this.
 
Hello All,

I'm wondering if anyone has retrofitted their emergency brake cable (drum type) in a different location. With moving and relplacing my driveline with the NV4500 and and after buying a longer cable for the brake engager, the cable is still too short.. I'm at a with what to do.... Pictures would be helpful.

Best,


UNO


I fixed my e-brake cable without having to resort to relocating it. I purchased a longer cable and and used the stock under the dash emergency brake assembally.

There were two problems that I encountered along the way that requried a little thiniking.

The first problem was the cable adapter that fits onto the firewall. The hole for the cable to slide through was too small to accomidate the cable and the backing nuts were too big to fit through the opening. To remedy I had to cut the cable housing in half and dremel out the hole to accomidate the cable.

I then used the backing nuts to fit together the housing (see pics). It worked to hold the cable in place.

The next problem was the ebrake puller. The eyelit on cable was too big to fit into the parking brake housing. I then got the dremel tool and hacked away 1/4" of the housing so the cable would fit.

I put it all together and low and behold it worked! Function of ebrake is fine. Works great.

View attachment 125221

View attachment 125222
 
Last edited:
On a related topic, I just replaced my stock speedometer with a digital, and needed to replace the speedo cable with a sending unit.

It wouldn't fit because of the parking brake cable interference.

Solution? I took the parking brake housing off the transfer case, drilled new bolt holes 3/4 inch rotated clockwise, which rotated the case CCW, and put it back on. Didn't have to change the brake cable, as there was about 3 in of play.

As an aside, if you want to keep that brake working properly, you need to replace the rear seal on the transfer case mor often than most of us do it.

When I made the new instrument panel with VDO gauges I purchased this Hall Effect Speed Sender and I changed the drive shaft to one that would adapt the Hall Effect Speed Sender to a standard Toyota speedometer output. I pulled the old speedo cable to see if there was any interference and it fit with no mods to the existing ebrake or cable.
340-011.jpg
 
I fixed my e-brake cable without having to resort to relocating it. I purchased a longer cable and and used the stock under the dash emergency brake assembally.

There were two problems that I encountered along the way that requried a little thiniking.

The first problem was the cable adapter that fits onto the firewall. The hole for the cable to slide through was too small to accomidate the cable and the backing nuts were too big to fit through the opening. To remedy I had to cut the cable housing in half and dremel out the hole to accomidate the cable.

I then used the backing nuts to fit together the housing (see pics). It worked to hold the cable in place.

The next problem was the ebrake puller. The eyelit on cable was too big to fit into the parking brake housing. I then got the dremel tool and hacked away 1/4" of the housing so the cable would fit.

I put it all together and low and behold it worked! Function of ebrake is fine. Works great.

View attachment 125221

View attachment 125222

Hi Uno,

I'm going through a similar exercise here with my FJ40. The FJ has a 350 and SM465 transmission. I need a longer cable for sure. How long is the cable that you bought?

Thanks

Dave
 
mine just doesn't work!

We have replaced everything but the casing and the brake still doesn't work. It's as if no matter how we turn the screw in the back for the adjustment, nothing works. Any tips besides a block of wood on a rope to toss under the tires?
 
Seems to my that you have to rebuild your parking brake drum set.
 
We bought the kit

Bought the complete kit, pads, springs, clips, cable....what else do I need? Only the cover plates remain.
 
How worn is your drum? It could be that the drum is so worn that the pads won't engage or barley engage.
 
I do not know, how does one find out? Is there an inner diameter size? What do I look for to know this. I am sorry, but this is my first trip as a "mechanic" I am better with a backpack and hiking boots. But I am trying to learn as fast as I can...trial by fire, I suppose. Is this going to be something I need to pay for someone to look at, if so....I'm going to the block of wood and a rope. LOL
 
Shizzel you're asking the wrong chap here. I'm shadetree mechanic too. Never worked on cars until I got me FJ40.
 

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