When your crank pulley bolt is laughing at you...

[LX101North]

Yeah, you know the bolt I speak of. The bolt that has broken many of men. The same bolt that inspired some redneck to use the frame of his car to crack the bolt as he turned over the ignition. I'm pretty sure the word "fk" was named after this bolt.

But it was this night. This Friday the 13th, that I wasn't broken by this bolt. In fact, it was I who did the crackin, and I didn't even move the pulley a Milimeter.

The best part about this is I barely used any effort and I didn't even have the tools that would be ideal.

I had a 1/2" socket wrench, torque wrench, 1/2 chain wrench, and a 3 1/2 ft cheat pipe.

At first I tried to fight the bolts fight. It showed me my upper body strength sucks and I got a weak stand up game. So, I did what I had to and I took the fight to the ground.

I latched the chain wrench around that pulley and attached my socket wrench. I added the cheater bar addition and wedged the bar down by the battery. I then put my 22mm on the torque wrench, wrapped it on that big ass bolt, and angled the wrench at 12 o clock. I then used a 5 gallon bucket to climb up in the engine bay. A stool will also work to give you a boost. Or if you are really limber then you can skip the bucket /stool entirely. I then sat on my fender with the cheater bar wedged under my right leg which was rested upon the manifold. I then used my other foot to push the torque wrench away from me.
I had that bolt tappin so quick with minimal effort. You shoulda seen it!
Winner by submission in the very first round......!!

 

[michaelshin]

Glad that you didn't pull any muscle. Congratulations . I am no longer that adventurous with my body positions. Flipoff 2.

 

[OregonLC]

They can definitely be buggers. I was able to fashion a SST using a strip of 3/4" hardwood and some bolts going to the pulley. Allow that to come over to the inner fender and rest and then use a breaker bar + extension and it came right off.

 

[2001LC]

I too fashioned the SST tool but used metal. Worked fine, but I destroyed the SST tool on a six cylinder Lexus IS300. The chain tool works great, but I do protect pulley grooves with old serpentine belt.

 

[AimCOtaco]

Fear lead me to prepare well and because of that mine went well.

Most fun I've had doing this was on a 4-cyl Hi-lux using the method where you lash the breaker bar to the frame rail and bump the starter. It had it all; dumb, overpowered, dangerous, fast, and easy!

 

[LX101North]

Glad that you didn't pull any muscle. Congratulations . I am no longer that adventurous with my body positions. Flipoff 2.

I've pulled a few during this project, but mostly on the a/c compressor bolt.

They can definitely be buggers. I was able to fashion a SST using a strip of 3/4" hardwood and some bolts going to the pulley. Allow that to come over to the inner fender and rest and then use a breaker bar + extension and it came right off.

Show off!

I too fashioned the SST tool but used metal. Work fine, but I destroyed the SST tool on a six cylinder Lexus IS300. The chain tool works great, but I do protect pulley grooves with old serpentine belt.

Yeah, man. Once I was able to add a few more links and figure out how to properly use that chain, it ended up being the perfect tool. I definitely didn't forget to use the serp belt as a buffer. I rounded off the last bolt holding the fan bracket to the A/C compressor. You know which one. Somebody had torqued it down with god like force. I had to buy the Irwin bolt-out set. Those sockets are amazing!

Fear lead me to prepare well and because of that mine went well.
Most fun I've had doing this was on a 4-cyl Hi-lux using the method where you lash the breaker bar to the frame rail and bump the starter. It had it all; dumb, overpowered, dangerous, fast, and easy!

I know the fear man. I spent 2 hours reading instructions and staring at my T-belt last night before I disengaged the tensioner... I was having an extremely difficult time deciphering whether I should line things up @ 0 degrees or @ 50 degrees. And that option wasn't even discovered until yesterday. I went ahead and lined everything up at 50 ATDC. From all of my research, that just seems to be the safer bet in regard to the accidental retardation/advancement of pulleys.

I wish I had a car I could try the bump method on...like a practice car. Haha.

 

[OregonLC]

Looks like skidoo found the best tool for the job...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/428148-how-hold-crank-pulley-removal.html

 

[OregonLC]

I was having an extremely difficult time deciphering whether I should line things up @ 0 degrees or @ 50 degrees. And that option wasn't even discovered until yesterday.

Both work as long as you're consistent with all three marks. Like others, I only have the 04 FSM which shows it as a TDC job. We've also validated that this is a non-interference engine so rotating of parts during job is not a concern (pre-06, non-VVti can't speak for those).

 

[2001LC]

Is that^^ the factory SST

 

[2001LC]

****Somebody had torqued it down with god like force. ******.

I wish I had a car I could try the bump method on...like a practice car. Haha.

Most-always takes more torque to remove, a lot more.

I've always feared using the starter method, to much risk IMHO.

 

[LX101North]

Both work as long as you're consistent with all three marks. Like others, I only have the 04 FSM which shows it as a TDC job. We've also validated that this is a non-interference engine so rotating of parts during job is not a concern (pre-06, non-VVti can't speak for those).

I also have the 04 FSM(go figure). Then as I started reading more i found out that the 99 FSM shows the 50 mark. From what I have gathered thru my countless hours of searching for the answer to this puzzle, is that the 98 thru either 00 or 02 (I can't remember which one) has this for the procedure. I was also reading that toyota sets it up this way in order to prevent cams from suddenly spinning back while under pressure and cause valve/piston contact. I only found these things out yesterday right before I took my belt off, so any information that I might have misunderstood i would love for someone to school me on the topic.

 

[LX101North]

Most always takes more torque to remove, a lot more.

I've always feared using the starter method, to much risk IMHO.

This was the MOST stubborn bolt I have ever wrenched on. I can't believe I didn't break something or lose half of it.

I just wanna watch someone do it...I don't really want the responsibility though.

 

[LX101North]

Will these products work for my applications? Edit: I have no idea why this pic is upside down.

 

[OregonLC]

I also have the 04 FSM(go figure). Then as I started reading more i found out that the 99 FSM shows the 50 mark. From what I have gathered thru my countless hours of searching for the answer to this puzzle, is that the 98 thru either 00 or 02 (I can't remember which one) has this for the procedure. I was also reading that toyota sets it up this way in order to prevent cams from suddenly spinning back while under pressure and cause valve/piston contact. I only found these things out yesterday right before I took my belt off, so any information that I might have misunderstood i would love for someone to school me on the topic.

Apparently Toyota changed the procedure at or before 2004 FSM was published. Spressomon has a 99 and confirmed that there is no interference risk if the cams are rotated with the crank static (or vice-versa). So either way will work. There is much lore about the 2UZ being an interference engine and only recently here was it determined to be otherwise. Don't know why Toyota published the 50 degree procedure in early FSMs. Can't believe they made a mistake but both Spress's experiment and at least two broken timing belts have proven there is zero risk.

 

[2001LC]

Will these products work for my applications? Edit: I have no idea why this pic is upside down.

No if loctite 245 is permanent, 242 is for removable bolts. I've not done water pump on my 100 but would not use gasket sealer unless called for. If called for Toyota dealer has best you can get, ford & GM guy's even use.

 

[LX101North]

Damn. The parts dept is closed on Saturday. The gasket maker is used once where the water inlet housing meets the water pump. And here is this little bit on the 245? Is it good to go?

 

[LX101North]

Apparently Toyota changed the procedure at or before 2004 FSM was published. Spressomon has a 99 and confirmed that there is no interference risk if the cams are rotated with the crank static (or vice-versa). So either way will work. There is much lore about the 2UZ being an interference engine and only recently here was it determined to be otherwise. Don't know why Toyota published the 50 degree procedure in early FSMs. Can't believe they made a mistake but both Spress's experiment and at least two broken timing belts have proven there is zero risk.

Well I guess these things are tanks then.
I'm balls deep now, buts it's good to know that I could do either way. Has anyone on here from toyota, like CDan or Beno confirmed with absolute certainty? I wonder why it's taken so long to figure this out?

 

[2001LC]

Damn. The parts dept is closed on Saturday. The gasket maker is used once where the water inlet housing meets the water pump. And here is this little bit on the 245? Is it good to go?

The 245 is 1600 psi it will work but don't use much or next time this is going to be a b*#$h to get off. The FIPG will also work, but Toyota has unbelievably good stuff. I was missing water pump gasket on a Sunday when I did TB job. Decided to not replace water pump, since it past inspection. You can always wait a few days to finish job.

 

[LX101North]

I think there's only one bolt that I have to use locktite? The pivot bolt on idler 1 right? Damn...monday...

 

[LX101North]

This is what an artery looks like after someone has been eating too much McDonald's.
No but this is my weep hole pretty much clogged. The pulley is just slipping back and forth. I'm surprised I wasn't overheating. Although when I'm driving I'm pretty hypersensitive to noises from the vehicle, so I noticed as soon as I heard the slightest sound of a noise.
Edit: air hole , not weep hole.