When your crank pulley bolt is laughing at you...

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So…… I’m dealing with this bulls*** right now on my 98. Engine that’s in is a ‘99 (long story).
I didn’t have a tool, didn’t Have the time last weekend to make one, so I ordered this one from Amazon.
Amazon product ASIN B07Q1W36L7

Here’s the deal- the bolt holes in the pulley don’t seem to be threaded.
Nor are they 65mm apart. Seems more like 70. So the tool I bought won’t work.
Does this ring a bell to anyone? Or did I find some dammed unicorn?
Upon further review, I am an idiot.
Apparently there are four holes in the pulley, two of them are threaded two of them are not. I got it off.
 
Just wanted to add, with a nice application of heat from a propane torch, I was able to get mine off easily with a Milwaukee mid torque impact
 
Looks like skidoo found the best tool for the job...

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How to hold the crank pulley for removal? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/428148-how-hold-crank-pulley-removal.html

I use one of those tools with a cheater pipe. The largest pins can be buffed down to perfectly fit Toyota crankshaft holes. The other pin sizes allow it to work with camshaft pulleys and other pins for the A/C clutch. $60.

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My variation : using a block with a hole drilled such that the cheater pipe on the breaker bar for the crankshaft pulley holder could be held in place with my foot.

I oriented the breaker bar on the pulley tool such that it was angled toward the DS. I could then slide the wooden block over it (photo 1). I cut the block hole with a hole saw such that it was the length of the gap between the cheater pipe and the fender. I got up on the front frame rail and planted my foot on the block such that it immobilized the pulley tool. I could then get a good two hand grip on the cheater I put on the bolt breaker bar( which is a robust breaker to start with). An easy slow pull and the bolt loosened.

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