When your crank pulley bolt is laughing at you...

[2001LC]

Any at bottom of T-belt housing to account for your leak (the taste test stuff on garage floor, remember )

I only use Toyota red long life coolant and DM water (De-mineralized), flushing with the DM water first. I found jugs of Toyota red at Carquest for $15. You can use Toyota super long life (pricey) which does not have any silicates. But if you don't get every drop of red out, it will still be necessary to flush every 20K miles or 2 years. I always have 3 qt left in system, according to factory stated capacity spec. I've been thinking about attempting blowing out coolant system with high pressure air, to see if I can get the last 3 qt out.

Note: be very carefully about using anything but frame as brace to torque on or off bolts. You may break the brace (bolt or component). If this happens you'll find yourself throwing wenches and yelling very loudly. In that event remember to get a cup of ATF sweeten with coolant and chill-out.

 

[LX101North]

Any at bottom of T-belt housing to account for your leak (the taste test stuff on garage floor, remember )

I only use Toyota red long life coolant and DM water (De-mineralized), flushing with the DM water first. I found jugs of Toyota red at Carquest for $15. You can use Toyota super long life (pricey) which does not have any silicates. But if you don't get every drop of red out, it will still be necessary to flush every 20K miles or 2 years. I always have 3 qt left in system, according to factory stated capacity spec. I've been thinking about attempting blowing out coolant system with high pressure air, to see if I can get the last 3 qt out.

Note: be very carefully about using anything but frame as brace to torque on or off bolts. You may break the brace (bolt or component). If this happens you'll find yourself throwing wenches and yelling very loudly. In that event remember to get a cup of ATF sweeten with coolant and chill-out.

Yeah the leak was most definitely coming from the pump. You could follow the crusty trail all the way down the block from two or 3 locations.. You could see where it had been pooling in spots near idlers and crank sprocket . And the bearing was completely shot. The wheel was super jerky and squeaky. The new one was smooth steady and quiet. Could you elaborate more on coolant refilling procedure? De mineralized water flush?
And I didn't use anything but leverage for torquing pulley bolt or any bolt. I used my legs instead of arm and sat on the fender.

And what's up with all the locktite? I read in a bunch of forums that people are gung-ho with it. Putting on all bolts upon reassembly. Why? Is torquing to spec not good enough?

 

[2001LC]

Flush with Toyota RED long life and distilled DM water is best practice, water needs to be De-Mineral-ized (DM). Silicates in the Toyota red react with minerals in water to form deposit inside coolant system which Leads too clogging. Like eating at McDonald's does to one's arteries. Not flushing regularly or allowing contaminates in system will result in earlier failure of components (corrosion & clogging of: radiator & heater core/pump/thermostat/ fittings/hoses/cap/seals & gaskets).

Toyota supper long life is new and can be mixed or used in place of red. It does not have silicates listed on ingredient. You'll still use distilled DM water to flush and mix at 50 / 50 ratio (unless a premixed jug of coolant). Unless you get every drop of red out of coolant system Toyota recommend; sticking with your maintenance schedule for make and model.

I flush every 20K to 30K miles or 2 or 3 yrs with DM water, avoid any chemical flush. Start by draining radiator by attaching 1/4 ID hose to drain tube, then attach 5/16 ID tubes too engine block drain plugs and drain. I keep old jugs around just for this, like 3 very large laundry detergent jugs work really well. These two block drains are located on engine block under exhaust manifold and easily accessed from under car just behind front tires (no need to raise truck). Then re tighten block drains with 10mm socket to 9ft-lbf torque. The system capacity is 16.3 qt w/rear heater IIRC. I only get about 12.5 out including cleaning out reservoir.

Flush: I close drains and fill with DM water. Run engine with radiator cap off until warmed up at which time you'll see coolant moving in radiator, add DM water until full and then replace cap, then drive around the block. Park and drain again be careful its hot if not cooled down first. repeat until reasonable clear, about three times.

By keeping track of what comes out comes out the first drain from a full system, you'll no how much diluted fluid is left in. By estimating you can add about 2 or 3 qt of 100% coolant. This will give you a 50/50 mix in system. Mix remainder of 100 % red with DM water outside of system then add. You want a 50/50 mix no more or no less, no matter how hot or cold your climate is. I like to save a little 100% red for adjusting mix bases on hydrometer tester readings.

Tip: You can read all kinds of ways to burp air out of system. Here is the easiest and best IMHO: Fill radiator to top with your premix, while engine warming up. Filling as you watch don't let get to low as it will harm water pump if dry. Then when full place radiator cap on, you can then squeeze upper radiator hose to aid a little in burping if you like. Fill reservoir with your premix coolant to near top (hot mark), plus a little if you like at this point. Drive to make sure very hot. Let cool overnight and refill reservoir to cold mark in morning, first day you can add a little extra. Repeat next morning only to cold mark. Keep checking & filling each morning until level holds, add more coolant mix to cold mark before starting/warming engine. I like to be dead-on both cold and hot marks levels, makes watching over time to see if any lose easy.

Next time I'm going to try compressed air to get the last ~3 qt Toyota indicates is left in system.


Use all the loctite you like, it's insurance which I don't find necessary except where called for. Just remember to use the removable fastener type or you'll end up busting knuckles and bolts. Tips: best practice always use torque wrench. When ever more than one bolt holds down a part use tightening sequence (star patterns tightening to a 1/3 of torque or less at a time.)

 

[LX101North]

Flush with Toyota RED long life and distilled DM water is best practice, water needs to be De-Mineral-ized (DM). Silicates in the Toyota red react with minerals in water to form deposit inside coolant system which Leads too clogging. Like eating at McDonald's does to one's arteries. Not flushing regularly or allowing contaminates in system will result in earlier failure of components (corrosion & clogging of: radiator & heater core/pump/thermostat/ fittings/hoses/cap/seals & gaskets).

Toyota supper long life is new and can be mixed or used in place of red. It does not have silicates listed on ingredient. You'll still use distilled DM water to flush and mix at 50 / 50 ratio (unless a premixed jug of coolant). Unless you get every drop of red out of coolant system Toyota recommend; sticking with your maintenance schedule for make and model.

I flush every 20K to 30K miles or 2 or 3 yrs with DM water, avoid any chemical flush. Start by draining radiator by attaching 1/4 ID hose to drain tube, then attach 5/16 ID tubes too engine block drain plugs and drain. I keep old jugs around just for this, like 3 very large laundry detergent jugs work really well. These two block drains are located on engine block under exhaust manifold and easily accessed from under car just behind front tires (no need to raise truck). Then re tighten block drains with 10mm socket to 9ft-lbf torque. The system capacity is 16.3 qt w/rear heater IIRC. I only get about 12.5 out including cleaning out reservoir.

Flush: I close drains and fill with DM water. Run engine with radiator cap off until warmed up at which time you'll see coolant moving in radiator, add DM water until full and then replace cap, then drive around the block. Park and drain again be careful its hot if not cooled down first. repeat until reasonable clear, about three times.

By keeping track of what comes out comes out the first drain from a full system, you'll no how much diluted fluid is left in. By estimating you can add about 2 or 3 qt of 100% coolant. This will give you a 50/50 mix in system. Mix remainder of 100 % red with DM water outside of system then add. You want a 50/50 mix no more or no less, no matter how hot or cold your climate is. I like to save a little 100% red for adjusting mix bases on hydrometer tester readings.

Tip: You can read all kinds of ways to burp air out of system. Here is the easiest and best IMHO: Fill radiator to top with your premix, while engine warming up. Filling as you watch don't let get to low as it will harm water pump if dry. Then when full place radiator cap on, you can then squeeze upper radiator hose to aid a little in burping if you like. Fill reservoir with your premix coolant to near top (hot mark), plus a little if you like at this point. Drive to make sure very hot. Let cool overnight and refill reservoir to cold mark in morning, first day you can add a little extra. Repeat next morning only to cold mark. Keep checking & filling each morning until level holds, add more coolant mix to cold mark before starting/warming engine. I like to be dead-on both cold and hot marks levels, makes watching over time to see if any lose easy.

Next time I'm going to try compressed air to get the last ~3 qt Toyota indicates is left in system.


Use all the loctite you like, it's insurance which I don't find necessary except where called for. Just remember to use the removable fastener type or you'll end up busting knuckles and bolts. Tips: best practice always use torque wrench. When ever more than one bolt holds down a part use tightening sequence (star patterns tightening to a 1/3 of torque or less at a time.)

2001LC man! WOW! Damn.....thank you for taking the time to write all this info up for me. Droppin knowledge! It is very much appreciated. I'm all finished up with my 90k. Took it slooooow and steady. Just finishing up with odds and ends. I'm going to toyota tomorrow to pick up coolant and gasket maker. I can't wait to drive this rig again. I've barely even owned it for three months and already have had to rebuild the starter and now the water pump situation. Here's hoping to a smooth 100k. My next project I think is going to be locking up my diffs. I will probably just about never have to lock my front, but from what I've heard is that ARB's front diff is an upgrade from my 99 stock. Which from what I've read is just a time bomb waiting to go off. I just want to replace before I'm forced to. Man, I'm gonna know this rig from top to bottom in two years flat.

In regard to the locktite. Honestly, I just put it on the idlers per the FSM. none of my bolts looked corroded and if I needed to put locktite on every bolt, toyota would let me know. I feel like they got all of the torque specs for good reason. Eh...I'll go thru and double check things in a month or so too.


Thanks again man!

 

[scottm]

My crank-pulley tool. The two bolts coming through the holes are for the threaded holes in my 100 crank pulley, the other two holes are spaced for the 80. I add holes as needed for different cars.

3/4"-drive ratchet wrench with a three-foot cheater, and no problems. Put the crank tool against a block of wood and give the cheater handle a tug. I used to use the starter bump, but fried the starter contacts on my 80 that way, ended up pausing to rebuild the starter.

 

[AimCOtaco]

Yeah, I probably wouldn't have tried the starter bump on a 2UZ. When I did it I was working on a tired 22RE... could have purchased a used motor in similar condition for about what a 2UZ water pump costs so the risk was much lower. That said it did work great and took seconds to complete.

For the 2UZ I made a tool like the one in post #7. It worked just fine but took a lot longer with the tool making and what not.

 

[scottm]

I wouldn't want anyone to use that factory SST on my pulley, it would damage the threads in the holes in the pulley. Since the pulleys have threaded holes, why doesn't the tool use screws to hold it into the pulley, instead of needing to put a C-clamp on it and hope it doesn't slip?

 

[AimCOtaco]

It is bolted, the clamp just helps to stabilize it (some stability is lost at the hinge). On the up side it fits a lot of different pulleys. On mine I didn't use a clamp but I did have to hold the handle firmly. Here it is:

 

[2001LC]

My crank-pulley tool. The two bolts coming through the holes are for the threaded holes in my 100 crank pulley, the other two holes are spaced for the 80. I add holes as needed for different cars.

3/4"-drive ratchet wrench with a three-foot cheater, and no problems. Put the crank tool against a block of wood and give the cheater handle a tug. I used to use the starter bump, but fried the starter contacts on my 80 that way, ended up pausing to rebuild the starter.

I like it thick alum & the 3/4", that set-up might even do the bad boy Lexus IS 300 which destroyed my steel tool & bolts. We tried a 1/2" with 5' cheater before putting the chain wrench to work on the IS300. The chain wrench is what I'll bet you'll find use in more shop than one would think. It's cheap and fast, and since it took on IS300 job without damage to pulley, it's a keeper for $20.

 

[LX101North]

I like it thick alum & the 3/4", that set-up might even do the bad boy Lexus IS 300 which destroyed my steel tool & bolts. We tried a 1/2" with 5' cheater before putting the chain wrench to work on the IS300. The chain wrench is what I'll bet you'll find use in more shop than one would think. It's cheap and fast, and since it took on IS300 job without damage to pulley, it's a keeper for $20.

Yeah. The chain wrench just locks it up. Some serious grip on the pulley with with the drive belt wrapped around the pulley.

ScottM, I probably used the idea of the ratchet and cheater bar partly because of your post, mixed with the chain wrench(2001LC), I read your write up a million times before I started. I was even going to try and have some one fabricate a tool, but I had to get the job done......

I finally put the coolant in last night and got the FIPG for the WP/WIH connection. After researching all weekend and talking to a few peeps, I decided that permatex wasn't going to cut it for me. I was able to get 12 QUARTS in the engine so far. 2001LC, I haven't even started the car yet..... I think I did perfect on everything, hell I started the job on Thursday evening. At that pace I hope I didn't miss a thing.
But you know, the LX, it just looks so peaceful right now.... When it's turned off and In my garage, nothing else can go wrong....ha!

From this....

 

[LX101North]

Back to this.... Pretty amazing...

 

[LX101North]

After two hours of staring at the front of my vehicle trying muster up the courage to turn the key, this is what transpired in the final moments....enjoy...hahaha!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vK-pqVzlPRs&feature=youtu.be

 

[2001LC]

Good job, I love it when a plan comes together.....

FYI, Recently in a thread, which you may have followed; One of our fellow muder's down-under...bought a series 100 which is somewhat rare in that part of the world. He learned the T-belt had been done by PO about 50K miles earlier. He couldn't get over 3,500 RPM, he'd lose power when he tried. Turn out the T-belt was set to the T marks instead of the timing marks. PO bought a LPG vehicle guess he got sick of 10mpg, and never realized the belt was off the mark for yrs. This and stories of belts breaking under load, means you didn't have much to worry about as far as damage on start up.

 

[LX101North]

Good job, I love it when a plan comes together.....

FYI, Recently in a thread, which you may have followed; One of our fellow muder's down-under...bought a series 100 which is somewhat rare in that part of the world. He learned the T-belt had been done by PO about 50K miles earlier. He couldn't get over 3,500 RPM, he'd lose power when he tried. Turn out the T-belt was set to the T marks instead of the timing marks. PO bought a LPG vehicle guess he got sick of 10mpg, and never realized the belt was off the mark for yrs. This and store of belts breaking under load, means you didn't have much to worry about as far as damage on start up.

It had to have been out of sync somehow though, right. Because if the crank was set at 50 degrees and both of the cams were at 25 degrees, when you put the belt back on( if done correctly) all marks would still line up at 0 degrees after two rotations of the crank, as mine did....so that's weird. I wonder what REALLY happened there. Off a tooth maybe? I have no idea.

 

[2001LC]

Yes it is true cam & crank marks line-up (but not with belt marks any longer once turned). This is the thread with T marks off: No power at high RPM, it would appear PO's belt job did set to wrong mark, it happens.

 

[midwest2]

There is a youtube video out there where the guy totally disregards the cam and crank marks and simply makes his own marks on the pully, engine and belt a couple of times at each pully. He then places the new belt on top of the old uninstalled one and marks the new belt at the same spot then reinstalls it. Seems this would work if nothing gets turned while you are working?

 

[LX101North]

There is a youtube video out there where the guy totally disregards the cam and crank marks and simply makes his own marks on the pully, engine and belt a couple of times at each pully. He then places the new belt on top of the old uninstalled one and marks the new belt at the same spot then reinstalls it. Seems this would work if nothing gets turned while you are working?

It has to work. It wouldn't have a choice. Theoretically, no matter where you decided to put your marks, as long as all three pulleys are as they were when you took off the original belt, and the exact same amount of teeth not he belt between pulleys, it's like the belt was never removed..... I'm not 100% positive about this,but I don't understand how it could hurt if one were to keep everything at its original state. Unless the engine pulled a fast one on ya while your back was turned.

 

[LX101North]

Yes it is true cam & crank marks line-up (but not with belt marks any longer once turned). This is the thread with T marks off: No power at high RPM, it would appear PO's belt job did set to wrong mark, it happens.

I'm not sure if I understand. Even if you lined up all your marks at TDC, after two slow rotations of the crank to make sure all the notches lined up on the cam pulleys and crank sprocket, the lines on the belt are no longer going to match the lines on the pulleys. As long as the belt was placed on just as the original came off (tooth wise, marks don't really matter) then why wouldn't it work?

Now it's time for me to read this post...

 

[Sandroad]

Here's my pulley holder. As with others, I made use of tools/parts I had sitting around. A short piece of 1 1/4 pipe held in a pipe flange and with a couple of bolts through holes 65mm apart fit the pulley. A 24 inch pipe wrench on the pipe and resting against a block of wood on the fender kept the pulley stationary while I easily removed the bolt with a 18 inch breaker bar and 24 inch extension on that. Took less than an hour total and was cheap.

 

[offthebeatenpath]

So…… I’m dealing with this bull**** right now on my 98. Engine that’s in is a ‘99 (long story).
I didn’t have a tool, didn’t Have the time last weekend to make one, so I ordered this one from Amazon.
Amazon product ASIN B07Q1W36L7

Here’s the deal- the bolt holes in the pulley don’t seem to be threaded.
Nor are they 65mm apart. Seems more like 70. So the tool I bought won’t work.
Does this ring a bell to anyone? Or did I find some dammed unicorn?