Just another 8274 rebuild - lots of pics (1 Viewer)

[Awl_TEQ]

Soooo - following the excellent lead of flintknapper here - https://forum.ih8mud.com/camping-gear-recovery/197470-my-warn-8274-rebuild-part-1-a.html

And this rebuild here - Warn 8274 rebuild - sorry I don't know the posters name - please post up so he gets proper credit

I looked online on a local classified site and found a guy selling two 8000# warn winches for $100.00. So I called him and asked what model (knowing the 8274 was a 8k) and he didn't know - the name plates were WARN off . I figured what the hell, he was only a couple of KM away, I'll go check it out

So I get there and he shows me two 8274's!!

He says his "buddy" borrowed his blazer 10 years ago and wrapped the cable around the drive motor and pulled! - busted the housing. so his buddy bought him a replacement with a bad motor but he never got around to rebuilding either unit.

So I offered him $80.00 for both. He says OK and I load up and skidaddle quick like before he wises up!

As the links above have covered things quite well this post will overlap a bit but as we all know everyone sees things from different angles and more pictures are always good for reference.

I am going to do this in in several steps
- Tear down
- Clean up/ paint parts
- Identify and order parts
- Re-assembly

If at all possible I will try to save and refurbish both units though I'm sure I can get one.

In prepping for this and the impending resto-mod of my FJ45 I bought myself a cheap sandblasting cabinet and made up a shallow wash tray at work for cleaning the parts. I plan on getting a parts washer but need to let the budget replenish some first.

This is what I started with.
Pic one is the two 8274 winches - one in two pieces
Pic two is some of my toys
Pic three is the future home of the winch - my truck on roller skates

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Starting on the unit with the busted case


#1 Removing the 150' of cable is NOT fun - the damn thing just wants to curl up in all the wrong places - trying to keep it neat is difficult.

#2 + #3 Both the upper and lower cases are cracked and busted.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Removing the solenoid pack

#2 Removing the free spool actuator - this unit is the type with a keyed instead of splined armature

#3 Removing the motor case from the armature - two long screws and it pulls off

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 I removed the motor shaft bearing and the upper case gears because I am going to get a friend of mine to try and weld up this case - it's a long shot but it might work.

#2 Moving on to the lower case - I removed the drum by lifting the locking plate and simply pulling the drum out.

#3 Then removed the bushing, seal and thrust washer from the drum.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Now the brake mechanism

#1 After removing the snap ring and a bit of tapping lightly with a small hammer I managed to get the outer plate off. You must be careful not to damage the plate itself though it is likely stronger than it appears. Also this is where the 21 ball bearings will fall out and seek the most difficult place from which to be retrieved. You can see also the ratcheting ring and the brake friction material ring.

#2 The 21 balls

#3 This thick washer was a bit reluctant to separate from the shaft.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Once the washer came off I just lifted the spring and inner brake plate off.

#2 As I mentioned above I am going to be welding (or more accurately my friend will) on this case so everything must come out. I followed flintknapper's thread directions and punched out the brake shaft, bushing and seal. Also I tapped out the needle bearing that supports the other end of the shaft and removed the main gear.

#3 The empty cases - Juuuust a little busted I'll take them to a former co-worker who specializes in repairing aluminum cases and such. If anyone can fix it he can.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

First one disassembled!!

Here is the busted case unit completely disassembled and ready for cleaning.


Other than the cases this unit just need seals, bushings and fresh lube.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Don't get confused here - This is a different unit than above!!

OK - Unit #2 - unknown condition.

pic #1 - The first sign of trouble - notice the brake ratcheting plate and friction discs are loose and hanging. All the ball bearings are gone as well as one of the friction discs.

#2 This unit has a ground line bolted to the underside of the motor casing that the other did not. Was the other unit missing it or just a different design??

#3 With the top case removed I see an immediate issue - there are two teeth missing from the shaft and one of them is rusted into the main gear.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Further inspection reveals more details

#1 What is wrong with this picture



#2 There is a gear missing It is a different design than the first unit.



#3 Here you see the two shafts. The upper one is from the first unit with the busted case - the lower is from this unit. The right end is missing two teeth (can't see that here. Also the shaft is a different design. The collar just to the right of the teeth on the upper shaft is part of the shaft - not removable.
On the lower shaft there is clearly two sets of teeth - what goes here?

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Here is the "oil" from the case. See all of the chunks??


#2 In the upper right I have pulled out the chunks and the pieces form the missing gear and two teeth.

#3 Here are the two shafts and the broken gear.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 One more of the shafts

#2 Another difference between the two units. Here I've got the first unit's drum on top and the one with the busted gear on the bottom. It is hard to see but the top one has a larger diameter gear. Now I feel I should explain - they both have the same number of teeth but the upper one's teeth are taller and the bottom are flatter. The bottom does not seem worn - just manufactured with shorter teeth.

#3 Perhaps the explanation here - I believe the older 8274's had the keyway style of free-spool/ drive gear and the newer ones a splined style. On the right we have the unit with the busted case (keyway/ old school) and on the left the unit with the busted gear (splined/ more recent style).

 

[Awl_TEQ]

TOAST

#1 Talk bout a hottie


#2 When it starts smoking its time to take a break!


#3 This smells like a barrel full of burnt garbage on the farm.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Another difference between old and new - this is the busted case/older style unit remote plug - four pin plug.

#2 This is the busted gear/ newer style?? - three pin plug for the remote

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Here are a couple of shots of removing the gears in the upper case. Now Warn "crimps" the housing by punching the aluminum around the shaft so that it retains the shaft - I tried two methods to remove the shaft. On the first one I took a small chisel and tried to "spread" or counteract their "crimp" then drove it out with hammer and punch. On the second unit I just drove it out. Noticed no difference in the outcome. These gears ride on two very small needle bearings. I really didn't have to remove them but I was trying to be thorough. If your gears are damaged don't bother removing them as Warn sells the upper case and gears (minus the motor and clutch) as a set. So if your buying new gears you'll get the upper case as a unit.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

The second unit disassembled

Here is the pile of parts for the second unit

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Just some shots of how the spring is installed on the brake pawl

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Goodnight

So its 2:00am and I'm tired. Tomorrow I will wash and Beadblast the appropriate parts and ID all parts and part numbers that require replacement. And more pics.

 

[photogod]

I don't have one of these winches nor will I ever but it sure is educational to see how they put these things together. I'm sure there is info here for everyone who has a Warn winch. Good write up.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Thanks Photogod

Spent the day cleaning and blasting parts. I'm using #7 glass bead that we removed from the blast cabinet at work cause it was contaminated. By that I mean we only blast stainless and aluminum in that cabinet an some schmuk from our sister company was caught shooting mild steel. When you blast metal tiny particles of that metal are blasted off and into the media in the cabinet. So if you blast mild steel and then stainless you will impregnate the loose mild steel into the stainless - et voila - rust on stainless. Our customers would not like that after what we charge them for stainless pieces.;p

Because I have no parts washer at home I made up a tray at work out of some scrap and had one of the welders seal the corners. Below are a couple of pictures of my fancy parts washer.

#1 is before any washing started. I'm just using a half gallon of varsol and a stiff brush. I opened the garage door as well as the man door on the opposite wall for some fresh air and used heavy gloves. Varsol ain't exactly good for your skin. I wish I had an enclosed heated ultrasonic cabinet like D'animal does.

#2 + #3 Here are some de-greased parts

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Here is the busted case. After de-greasing the damage is a lot easier to see. Someone has already tried to weld the pieces together - though not very well. Aluminum is trickier than steel but there just isn't any penetration and the welds did not hold. If I had to pay a welder to fix this to "gooder than new" it would be cheaper to just buy another case. Luckily, I don't I have a Miller 180 mig but I am not a welder. I have a couple of dozen welders at work that owe me favors.

#2 Here is the case after glass bead blasting. Oooo shiny, but ugly with those welds. I'll get it fixed properly and post up side by side.

#3 The brake pieces, lock plate and clutch