zen + the art of windshield wiper fluid troubleshooting (1 Viewer)

[Rifleman]

Sure thing, so that is an ATX computer power supply (pulled it out of an old Dell desktop someone was throwing away) and got a $20 breakout board that plugs into the existing wire harness. It has a built in polyfuse (so cycling the power resets it) and the power supply is regulated, which means you get a stable voltage within the power supplies power limits. Yay cheap electronics! I use the thing to power all sorts of DC motors.


I pulled apart the diverter valve. It's basically just a solenoid...with a plunger that has rusted away (this is the only thing that has rusted on this truck in phx haha!). I don't think it's salvageable but I may give it a try... I'm thinking I could find a plain washer that is the right diameter, weld the center shut, grind it flat, and then reinstall.

The diverter, top down showing the 4 bent over tapes that retain the inner bits:
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the inner bits, note the rusty plunger in the cap:
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Some rust in the spring, that suspends the plunger. When you turn on the rear squirt function, the solenoid pulls the plunder down (towards the green windings) which diverts flow:
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Here's a Mud link for a aftermarket diverter valve that you may like.

Replacement for Rear Wiper Diverter Valve

Finally got tired of buying rear wiper valves and I like having the squirter back there. Found this valve after looking for a little bit. More expensive than OEM, but should last forever with this light duty application (knock on wood as I am sure that's Mr T thought about his valve also)...

forum.ih8mud.com

Web link to the aftermarket diverter valve.

Texas Industrial Remcor 3-Way 12 Volt DC Solenoid Valve, Weather Pack Connector: 1/4'' FPT, Direct Operating, 55 PSI - Dultmeier Sales

Texas Industrial Remcor 3-Way 12 Volt DC Solenoid Valve, Weather Pack Connector - 1/4'' FPT, Direct Operating, 55 PSI, For Foam / Dye Markers • Chemical Injection • Nozzle Control. The 2204 3-Way

www.dultmeier.com

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Yup, you should just need to listen for the clunk, the magnetic field should build up real quick and move the plunger unless it is corroded like mine (mine wouldnt move).

I believe the default position is:
bottom nipple - to rear window
inboard nipple - in from pump
aft nipple - to front windshield




Here is some reading that should answer your questions:

ATX - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Power supply unit (computer) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Amazon product ASIN B00W0SBUJ0
In the video, I am just applying power to the solenoid (which is just a coil of wires that create a magnetic field when you pass current through them)... that magnetic field is what creates the motion to move the plunger (which is what makes the solenoid work). With power supplied, I was demonstrating how the magnetic field attracts the allen wrench. When I switch off the power, the magnetic field decays and the wrench falls.

That big resistor is 4 ohms, me thinks it is there to prevent issues if there is a short in the coils or if they overheat. Allows a bypass in the event that the resistance in the coils goes over 4 ohm. (electricity likes the path of least resistance... more ohms = more resistance)

More reading if you are interested:

Solenoid - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

hey man. are you still around in this one? ever get yours to work?
i’m looking at mine and it seems super clean.
can you explain the operation again?
spring pushes the “disk plunger” up which in turn pushes the plastic diverter up and this creates space for it to go to the SIDE port which is front?
and what happens when it is activated? it pulls the disk toward the solenoid i guess? but how does that affect the flow exactly? i can’t see how the plastic diverter would be affected.
also. i’ll check your video. but if i reassemble and hear kachunk, kachunk when i apply 12 V power and i see 4 ohms at the resistor it should be working...?

 

[Somebodyelse5]

hey man. are you still around in this one? ever get yours to work?
i’m looking at mine and it seems super clean.
can you explain the operation again?
spring pushes the “disk plunger” up which in turn pushes the plastic diverter up and this creates space for it to go to the SIDE port which is front?
and what happens when it is activated? it pulls the disk toward the solenoid i guess? but how does that affect the flow exactly? i can’t see how the plastic diverter would be affected.
also. i’ll check your video. but if i reassemble and hear kachunk, kachunk when i apply 12 V power and i see 4 ohms at the resistor it should be working...?

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Hey there, been traveling for work a ton and haven’t had a chance to dive into it anymore. Unfortunately mine is toast, and I’m not going to put in the effort to make a new plunger. I may retrofit something from a camery? We’ll see.

From memory, I think you have the function outlined correctly. Id clean up the rust and test for a kachunk kachunk and reinstall.

Sorry i’m not much help. New job. Month of travel. Haven’t seen the cruiser in weeks!

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Hey there, been traveling for work a ton and haven’t had a chance to dive into it anymore. Unfortunately mine is toast, and I’m not going to put in the effort to make a new plunger. I may retrofit something from a camery? We’ll see.

From memory, I think you have the function outlined correctly. Id clean up the rust and test for a kachunk kachunk and reinstall.

Sorry i’m not much help. New job. Month of travel. Haven’t seen the cruiser in weeks!

guess i am going to take a big wrench and force those flanges down to lock it and see if it works.
weird it is so hard to see how that disk and that plastic cap that seems to route the flow work.

 

[Bud_Dude]

Unhooked the hoses to my diverter solenoid valve, connected feed hose to hood hose, worked fine. Connected feed hose to rear window hose, was intermittent and some gunk on the rear window. Disassembled rear hose at top of rear hatch tried again and it flowed fine. Blew air from rear hatch sprayer nozzle and gunk came out inside hose. Reconnected rear hose and spray works great now. Finally I took my diverter solenoid valve out, took it apart on the workbench and it was a rusty grimy mess inside, clearly not repairable so I tossed it into the trashcan. Then ordered a replacement on Amazon for $44 and free shipping... Looking forward to a week or so from now when I'll have front and rear washers for the first time ever!