Finally got tired of buying rear wiper valves and I like having the squirter back there. Found this valve after looking for a little bit. More expensive than OEM, but should last forever with this light duty application (knock on wood as I am sure that's Mr T thought about his valve also).
http://www.dultmeier.com/products/search/5844
Then to hook it up:
(2) Blade Terminals
Some 1/4 Heat Shrink
Some 1/2 Heat Shrink
10-12in of Wire
Solder and Iron
(3) 1/4 NPT to 1/8 Barb Elbows
Machine Screw, Locknut, and Washer if you want to reuse the old mount.
Pop the top off of the old valve and un-solder the connector so you can use the existing connector from the wire harness:
Then crimp the blade terminals on one end of the wire, heat shrink those, put the large heat shrink on over both wires (to cover the bare end of the connector), and put smaller heat shrink on each wire. Truthfully, all the heat shrink probably not necessary, but I had it on hand. Solder the other end of the wire to the old connector, and shrink all the heat shrink:
I wanted to reuse the existing mount, so I found a configuration that works with where the hoses come out. You need to pop the top from the mounting arm carefully, but it comes off.
Then use a small machine screw, fender washer, and locknut (I had them on hand) to mount the new valve upside down:
The straight barb fittings don't work great, so I switched to elbows. I had to order them from Grainger to find them (Item IZKB2) $10 for 10 of them though:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ELDON-JAMES-Elbow-1ZKB2
If anyone wants the leftovers PM me. The elbows were hard to find, but Ace had the straight fittings for like $0.75/ea.
Mount it up with the original bolt and plug it in.
The only thing I noticed is that the front squirters squirt a little bit right after you release the twist to activate the rear squirters.
Ready for the winter!
http://www.dultmeier.com/products/search/5844
Then to hook it up:
(2) Blade Terminals
Some 1/4 Heat Shrink
Some 1/2 Heat Shrink
10-12in of Wire
Solder and Iron
(3) 1/4 NPT to 1/8 Barb Elbows
Machine Screw, Locknut, and Washer if you want to reuse the old mount.
Pop the top off of the old valve and un-solder the connector so you can use the existing connector from the wire harness:

Then crimp the blade terminals on one end of the wire, heat shrink those, put the large heat shrink on over both wires (to cover the bare end of the connector), and put smaller heat shrink on each wire. Truthfully, all the heat shrink probably not necessary, but I had it on hand. Solder the other end of the wire to the old connector, and shrink all the heat shrink:


I wanted to reuse the existing mount, so I found a configuration that works with where the hoses come out. You need to pop the top from the mounting arm carefully, but it comes off.

Then use a small machine screw, fender washer, and locknut (I had them on hand) to mount the new valve upside down:

The straight barb fittings don't work great, so I switched to elbows. I had to order them from Grainger to find them (Item IZKB2) $10 for 10 of them though:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ELDON-JAMES-Elbow-1ZKB2
If anyone wants the leftovers PM me. The elbows were hard to find, but Ace had the straight fittings for like $0.75/ea.
Mount it up with the original bolt and plug it in.
The only thing I noticed is that the front squirters squirt a little bit right after you release the twist to activate the rear squirters.
Ready for the winter!