Yet another base-line/build thread

[IsaacUribe]

Hello fellow 100-Series/Landcruiser connoisseurs.

First, a big thanks is in order to everybody that has posted much valueable gems of advice/knowledge and shared their experiences throughout the whole forum, I have learned a lot from you all.

Request

I would appreciate if anybody could tell me if I am missing any major component from the following base-line checklist.
I am trying to group it into logical units, so labor time/cost is kept at a minimum.

Current setup

2000 Landcruiser with 193k miles (born in CT, some rust, now living in CA, USA).
No service records, an initial assessment showed the only major/immediate service needed was alignment and new front tires, which I took care of already (matching Toyo Open Country 285/75/16).
The LC came with OME torsion bar, springs and shocks of unknown model (almost no lift, can't read marks, suspension setup is approximately 3 years old).
I bought the FSM and cross-checked with Toyota's official maintenance schedule and this forum (as much as I could read, including other base-line posts and linked articles like Slee Of Road's Newbie Guide).

Goals

This will be a weekend driver/errands around the city until base-line is complete, then road-trips and some off-road for 2 years(very light trails, no rock-crawling or mudding whatsoever), while I take care of all the "little things" and make up my mind about building it so I can safely take a road trip to Anchorage/Alaska during summer (no camping, sticking to motels/civilization/paved or dirt roads with the occasional rough spot taken very carefully).

Baseline checklist

Cleaning

• Good interior detailing (carpet wash, vacum, etc.)
• Engine steam
• Chassis pressure wash, fluid film to ease the pain for mechanic

Engine

• Replace timing belt
  • Drain and replace coolant
  • Replace generator drive belt (AKA serpentine belt or fan belt)
  • Replace drive belt idler pulley
  • Replace drive belt tensioner
  • Replace No.1 and No. 2 idler pulley
  • Replace P/S air hose
  • Replace EVAP hose
  • Replace air hose
  • Replace lower radiator hose
  • Replace A/T oil cooler hose
  • Replace fan pulley
  • Replace fan bracket
  • Replace oil cooler pipe
  • Replace timing belt tensioner
  • Replace crankshaft pulley
  • Replace crankshaft timing pulley
  • Replace RH and LH camshaft timing pulley
  • Replace fuel return hose
  • • Replace water pump
    • Replace gaskets and o-rings
• Inspect valve clearance
  • Replace PCV hose, valve and gaskets
  • Replace ignition coils
  • Replace spark plugs (and wires?)
  • Replace RH and LH cylinder gasket
  • Replace oil seals
  • Replace PS hose
  • Replace gaskets and o-rings
  • Replace shims
• Inspect exhaust pipes and mountings
  • Replace RH and LH exhaust manifold gasket
  • Replace gaskets (6x)
  • Replace EVAP hose and pipe
  • Replace heater hoses and "t"s
• Replace thermostat and thermostat gasket
• Replace air cleaner filter
• Service oil pump
  • Check oil pressure
  • Replace oil cooler hose
  • Replace gaskets and o-rings
  • Replace oil (fully synthetic) and oil filter
  • Replace crankshaft front oil seal
• Inspect fuel lines, connections and fuel vapor control valve
  • Inspect charcoal canister
  • Replace throttle gasket
  • Replace ECT sensor gasket
• Inspect fuel tank and fuel tank bands and hoses
  • Replace fuel tank gasket
• Replace power steering oil
• Replace starter
  • Replace dust protector, front and rear bearing, o-rings and gaskets
• Electrical
  • Inspect battery
  • Inspect generator
    • Replace bearings and seals
• Brakes
  • Inspect brake line pipes and hoses
  • Inspect front and rear brake pads and discs
    • Replace rotors
    • Replace pads and anti-squeal shims
    • Replace or grind discs
    • Replace pad retainer clip and clip
    • Replace shims
  • Inspect parking brake linings and drums
    • Replace tension springs
    • Replace c-washers
    • Replace or grind discs
    • Replace shims
  • Replace brake fluid
    • Bleed brake lines
• Chassis
  • Inspect nuts and bolts on chassis and body
  • Inspect steering linkage
    • Replace dust seals and covers
    • Inspect steering linkage and boots
    • Inspect steering gear box
    • Replace steering gear housing oil
    • Replace and repack/lubricate wheel bearings and drive shaft bushings
      • Replace oil seals, bearings, lock washer, gaskets, snap rings and grease caps
    • Inspect drive shaft boots
    • Replace transfer shift bushing
  • Inspect ball joints and dust covers
    • Replace dust covers
  • Inspect transfer unit
    • Replace oil
    • Inspect front and rear propeller shafts
      • Replace spider bearing, spider and snap rings
      • Replace shafts
      • Replace inner shift lever oil seal
      • Replace input shaft oil seal
      • Replace input shaft front and rear ball bearing
      • Re-torque bolts
    • Replace crossmember with Slee Off Road's diff drop kit
    • Inspect transfer
      • Replace gaskets and oil seals
  • Inspect front differential
    • Replace oil
    • Replace oil seal, snap ring, cotter pin and grease cap
    • Replace filler plug, gaskets, lock plate, oil seal, dust deflector, oil storage ring and bearing spacer
  • Inspect rear differential
    • Replace oil
    • Replace oil seal and bearing spacer
    • Replace filler plug, gaskets, lock plate, oil seal, dust deflector, oil storage ring, o-rings and bearing spacer
  • Inspect differential locking system
  • Inspect automatic transmission / valve body
    • Replace automatic transmission fluid
    • Replace o-rings
    • Replace gasket and drain plug
• Body
  • Tire alignment/rotation (done)
• Suspension
  • Inspect suspension
  • Change bushings
  • Replace crossmember with Slee Off Road's diff drop kit (double-listed)

Thanks!

 

[Dwight S]

Don't know if I overlooked it.... heater hose tees.

 

[CruizerHound]

My truck has 198k on it, and these are the things that I have had to fix in the last year:

• New radiator (leak at the bottom, changed out the hoses)
• Fan clutch (replace it if pulling the rad)
• Generator (1st symptom was at night I could see the head lights dim[slightly] when the brakes were pressed)
• Ignition lock on steering wheel column(known failure point, will leave you stranded)
• Heater hose T's (known failure point)
• Belt tensioner (known failure point, had to call a tow truck to get me home, 1st time a LC left me on the side of the road in 20 years)
• New serp belt (the tensioner broke it)
• Random coil pack(about every year one of these will go out so buy two and wait )
• O2 sensors (if one goes, replace all, they seem to fail close together, Call Beno or do a denso search on Amazon, DONT BUY AFTERMARKET)
• New radio (Installing this week, The amp hass known to stay on and kill the battery)
• Shocks (if Beno and I can stop playing phone tag)
• New ignition key (plastic body will disintegrate)
• I had my timing belt done at the local dealership about 30k ago and they changed the t-stat.

Pretty much everything on my list will leave you calling a tow truck except the o2 sensors. Im not sure if you plan to tackle this list yourself or take to someone, but one piece of advice I would like to share from working on cars for over 25 years:

BUY OEM ! The parts at any other store ARE NOT THE SAME OR BETTER. It does not matter what the 19 year old kid that has worked there for two weeks tells you.

 

[IsaacUribe]

Don't know if I overlooked it.... heater hose tees.

Thanks, included.

 

[IsaacUribe]

I am still preparing a work log, this seems to be the schedule for maintenances, (extrapolated of course, schedule is not defined after 120k miles or 96 months):

Work - Miles frequency
Inspect ball joints and dust covers - 5k
Inspect brake lines and hoses - 15k
Inspect brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs - 5k
Lubricate wheel bearings and drive shaft bearings - 30k
Inspect drive shaft boots - 5k
Inspect nuts and bolts on chassis and body - 5k
Inspect steering linkage and boots - 5k
Inspect steering gear box - 15k
Lubricate propeller shaft and re-torque bolts - 5k
Inspect front differential oil - 15k
Inspect rear differential oil, including limited-slip - 15k
Inspect transfer case oil - 30k
Inspect transmission fluid or oil - 30k
Inspect automatic transmission fluid - 30k
Rotate tires - 5k
Inspect air filter - 5k
Replace oil and oil filter - 5k
Replace coolant - 30k
Inspect valve clearence - 30k
Replace engine timing belt - 90k
Inspect drive belt - 30k
Replace spark plugs - 90k
Inspect fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses - 30k
Inspect fuel tank cap gasket - 30k
Inspect charcoal canister - 30k
Inspect exhaust pipes and mountings - 15k

Maintenance schedule UZJ100

• IsaacUribe
• Apr 7, 2015

Maintenance schedule from owners manual (Landcruiser 2000 / 100 series / UZJ100L-GNPEKA / 2UZFE)

 

[Scottb4857]

That's a pretty extensive list! Sounds like this would be easier:
1. Remove radiator cap and suspend in air above vehicle.
2. Back-up vehicle.
3. Drive new from dealer vehicle under radiator cap.
4. Replace cap.

Joking of course - have done many of the same items myself. But some of the items are probably overkill - why replace something like crank or camshaft pulleys? Unless severely rusted or somehow damaged new ones won't perform any different than existing other than making your wallet quite a bit lighter.

As for the oil pump service - there is nothing you can do to it other than replace (well you can try but not worth it). And you can't replace it unless you drop both oil pans. You can't drop both oil pans unless you either take the engine out of the truck or remove the front differential. After having done the latter not sure it wouldn't have been easier to just pull the engine - but I have neither the hoist or holder in my garage at home. Getting the oil pans back in place without screwing up the FIPG was "fun", but I did enjoy the challenge .

Buying OEM for engine mechanicals and the such makes sense - but do a quick search of part numbers on google before heading to the local dealer. I have found many OEM parts on Amazon and Ebay for 50-70% under even the great deals from Beno and such. (a great guy by the way)

Good luck with the build - does sound like a great adventure - wish I lived nearby and could offer help.

 

[IsaacUribe]

That's a pretty extensive list! Sounds like this would be easier:
1. Remove radiator cap and suspend in air above vehicle.
2. Back-up vehicle.
3. Drive new from dealer vehicle under radiator cap.
4. Replace cap.

Joking of course - have done many of the same items myself. But some of the items are probably overkill - why replace something like crank or camshaft pulleys? Unless severely rusted or somehow damaged new ones won't perform any different than existing other than making your wallet quite a bit lighter.

As for the oil pump service - there is nothing you can do to it other than replace (well you can try but not worth it). And you can't replace it unless you drop both oil pans. You can't drop both oil pans unless you either take the engine out of the truck or remove the front differential. After having done the latter not sure it wouldn't have been easier to just pull the engine - but I have neither the hoist or holder in my garage at home. Getting the oil pans back in place without screwing up the FIPG was "fun", but I did enjoy the challenge .

Buying OEM for engine mechanicals and the such makes sense - but do a quick search of part numbers on google before heading to the local dealer. I have found many OEM parts on Amazon and Ebay for 50-70% under even the great deals from Beno and such. (a great guy by the way)

Good luck with the build - does sound like a great adventure - wish I lived nearby and could offer help.

Still compiling part numbers... Thanks for the tips!

 

[Sandroad]

The list of inspections if great. However, unless your truck has a bazillion miles, the list of replacement parts is way overkill. Perhaps you mean inspect and replace if necessary? The 90k miles service parts in the FAQs, plus a complete change of fluids is a good start for replacement parts. Do the inspections and replace only as necessary the other parts.

 

[Kigiin]

Or you could just drive it and fix things as they become a problem.

 

[Mauiyotanokaoi]

Yea ur going overboard... Like the fan bracket and lots of other parts you just simply don't have to replace unless there are problems. I agree with scheduled maintenance but really just look at things as you do the timing belt, clean things well and replace what you have to. I did my can seals but didn't have to...

 

[IsaacUribe]

Thanks for the comments. After all the recommendations, I am not ordering anything until after visual inspection, I just want to have a plan of things to look for and learn if need replacement (fluids, seals, shocks and suspension-related bushings for sure, it is kind of a tin can while driving over uneven terrain).
I guess this is after all a very reliable vehicle (I am coming from having other vehicles which I had to replace way too many things).

 

[ckkone]

Or you could just drive it and fix things as they become a problem.

That would be way to easy...

 

[El Cid]

Or you could just drive it and fix things as they become a problem.

Haha!

Your attitude is NOT gonna make you many friends, bro.