Yellowstone - What to see, where to stay?

[BirfMark]

The wife & I are planning on a trip to Yellowstone this September, and I've got a bunch of questions. Hopefully some of you more experienced travellers can help me out here.

Our plans are currently to leave northern Colorado either Saturday or Sunday (the 12th/13th), and head up to Lander, staying at the Sinks Canyon Campground, unless there is somewhere better. From there, our itinerary is wide open - I'm thinking we'll head SW to 191, and north into Jackson & Grand Teton NP. We're intending to come home via Cody & Thermopolis.



1) What are the must see tourist spots? In a bit of research here & elsewhere, I've come up with the following list:

• Old Faithfull
• Grand Canyon of Yellowstone
• Upper & Lower Falls
• Old Faithful Inn
• West Yellowstone - what's to see/do here?

2) Are we better off to try & find a 'central' campground in the park, and just do a series of day trips from there, returning at night, or move around? Do you have to stay in campgrounds? We'll be camping out of our FZJ80, not using a tent. All we really need is somewhere to pull off the road. Is this possible within the park? I'd rather not be crammed in with 300 snot-nosed kids & drunk adults.

3) If we enter Grand Teton National Park, and continue through to Yellowstone, do we have to pay for two entrance fees?

4) Are there short hikes that are worth doing? I'm not into 18 mile backcountry trips, but short hikes (less than a mile or two?) are doable.

5) Should we expect snow in late September? I'm thinking so....

Any advice as far as routes, campgrounds, activities, sites to see along the way, you-name-it, will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

Mark

 

[Joe Egolf]

I believe you can buy a natl parks pass for $50 ,good for a year at all natl parks. I thought West Yellowstone was a tourist trap IMOP If you go to Jackson and then out toward Kelly and turn right on the road to Teton village you will go past teton village ski area and see the Tetons close up and then you will come to the entrance of teton natl park , wave hello to my son Joe right before the entrance If you see a red and black 1968 GTO doing about 130 mph that would be him.

 

[bkfj40]

If you want to camp out of your cruiser, you'll need to be at the campgrounds in Yellowstone. If you get into Teton National Park, you can always hit some of the National Forest areas around Jackson. Gros Ventre has some good camping areas and it is neat to see the slide area. Also, you can camp out east of Blacktail Butte, or west of Jackson and south of Wilson.

Teton NP is good for a hike around Jenny Lake, and a few other scenic spots, but Yellowstone has more to see....but it is a huge park. You'll be doing lots of driving. Get up early to see the wildlife - it's worth it.

Oh yeah, don't forget to stop and have breakfast at Dornan's one morning. All you can eat buckwheat pancakes sitting at a picnic table in front of the Tetons. If you head just a little north of Moose and get on antelope flats road, you'll see some houses down a private road- that's where I used to live (ugh...I still miss it).

bk

 

[sundaypunch]

We just finished a trip to Yellowstone / Grand Teton / Ouray.

$25 will get you a 7-day pass for Yellostone & GTNP. I would highly recommend staying at a campground in Yellowstone. It is a massive park and driving takes forever. If you stay outside of the park you will spend a big chunk of your day with the back & forth.

We camped at Canyon campground & loved it. Of course camping there amounts to leaving the tent at 7-8 am and not returning until 10pm. It really is just a place to sleep, there is so much to do there. I drove through most of the other campgrounds to check them out. If we go back we will stay at Canyon again. It is centrally located and (relatively) easy to get to everything in the park.

We had a tent, if you don't have setup/teardown then a different campground in a different section of the park each day isn't a bad idea. You will definitely be getting snow in September. We had morning temps of 32-38 F in mid-july.

We were under-whelmed with GTNP after spending several days at Yellowstone. There are far fewer "attractions" to entertain the kids. If you don't have kids and can do more hiking then it may not be an issue.

 

[BirfMark]

Good info here - thanks guys!

We're striking West Yellowstone from the itinerary.

We're going to spend the first night near Lander, probably somewhere in the National Forest.

Second night we're shooting for Colter Bay campground in GTNP. From there, we'll move up to the Lake Lewis campground at the south end of Yellowstone and camp for one night.

Once we're done at Lake Lewis (from where we intend to see the SW corner of the loop), we're intending to try & get reservations at Canyon for two nights. Sundaypunch: did you use the showers at Canyon - do you remember how much they were, and how clean were they? I'm hoping since we'll be there during mid-week, and after school is back in, that it won't be as busy. We don't have any kids, and aren't fans of congestion/noise/crowds when we're camping, but understand it's a trade-off in order to see the sites. Hopefully the weather will cooperate with us & we'll get a few short hikes in to get away from people.

I guess the weather factor is going to be our biggest surprise - down here we'll probably still be getting 80degree days, and 50degree nights. Better make sure we've got good sleeping bags! We'll also be taking a tent, but probably only using it at Canyon to store gear in. We actually find sleeping in the Cruiser to be much more comfortable than on the ground.

We're also adding Dornan's to the list for breakfast - looks like an amazing place for a meal!

 

[NLXTACY]

September is really the best time to go because the crowds are really at a minimum. Mostly French tourists during that time. Old Faithful is a let down to be honest, There are a few beehive geysers behind Old Faithful that are much cooler. Its best to go to each of the campgrounds. I LOVED Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris Geyser Basin and Fishing Bridge is cool to watch the bison crossing the bridge. My recommendation is to camp at Norris and go to the LOWEST and Furthest spot. It has its own bear box. But the reason why its the coolest spot is because you are away from everyone AND you have a front door to the meadow and the river that snakes through it.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Lander
- Red Canyon on the way in
- at the Sinks, feed the fish, but watch out for this guy:
YouTube - RAMbunctious-Bighorn Sheep vs Toyoya 4Runner In Lander Wyoming "The Rise Of The Little Bighorn"
seriously - we were up there on the 4th and he was still there, trying to take out cars.

GTNP/Jackson
- take the boat across Jenny Lake and short hike up Inspiration Point
- cowboy shoot out on the square
- Bar J Wranglers dinner show

Jellystone
- Old Faithful
- Falls
- Grand Canyon
- Fishing Bridge
- Norris
- "Bear World" in West

If you want to get into restaraunt recommends, let me know - there's way better eat's than Dornan's.

 

[Bogo]

For elk, the road from Madison Jct for a few miles west to West Yellowstone (F to G on map) is very good for seeing the elk rut. Mid September the rut should be getting going. It is a little better later in September. Evenings from a few hours before sunset to just past sunset is the best time. They are quite active then. If you want to photograph them, shoot early or have good low light gear.

from:Grand Loop Rd/US-212 to:Grand Loop Rd/US-212 to:Grand Loop Rd to:Grand Loop Rd to:Grand Loop Rd/US-191/US-20/US-287/US-89 to:Grand Loop Rd/US-89 to:W Entrance Rd/US-191/US-20/US-287 - Google Maps

Bear will be moving up and down the mountains. I'd Grand Loop road from a couple miles west of Tower Ranger Station, past Tower to a few miles short of Canyon is very good for seeing bear. They will be grubbing the hill sides for pine nuts so will be in and among the pine tree stands. Every so often they will be spottable from the road and cause traffic jams.

At fishing bridge it is some times possible to see bear, but that isn't a good time of the year for there. Between fishing bridge and Canyon is a good place to see buffalo out on the wide open spaces.

All through the Lemar valley is good wildlife spotting. Any thing can be seen, but distances are much greater.

Note: Grand Loop Road between Norris and Madison will have a section closed for bridge replacement.

 

[Bogo]

I guess the weather factor is going to be our biggest surprise - down here we'll probably still be getting 80degree days, and 50degree nights. Better make sure we've got good sleeping bags! We'll also be taking a tent, but probably only using it at Canyon to store gear in. We actually find sleeping in the Cruiser to be much more comfortable than on the ground.

Plan for colder than that... In mid September I've been snowed on in Yellowstone.

 

[sundaypunch]

Sundaypunch: did you use the showers at Canyon - do you remember how much they were, and how clean were they? I'm hoping since we'll be there during mid-week, and after school is back in, that it won't be as busy.

The showers were excellent. You pay $3.25 at the desk and get as much time as you want. They were open from 7-1:30 then they clean them and open them again at 3pm. We used them right at 3 so they had just been cleaned and were excellent.

The bathrooms in the camping loops were also very clean.

 

[BirfMark]

Well, I called up this morning to make reservations, and there's been a slight change of plans.

Canyon campground is already closed by the time we'll be getting up there (it closes early September, apparently), so we booked at Grant Village instead.

We had originally planned to stay one night at the unimproved Lake Lewis campground, and two nights at Canyon, but opted for three nights at Grant Village instead. Grant Village isn't as centrally located as we would have liked, which will mean more miles driving, but it shouldn't be a big deal.

Does anyone know if Grant Village has bear boxes for storing food in? We're going to be sleeping in our 80, and we won't really have room to store food in there with us as well. We may end up picking up an Engel before we go (hope it fits in a front seat), but we'll see...

Thanks again for everyone's input!

 

[NLXTACY]

The showers were excellent. You pay $3.25 at the desk and get as much time as you want. They were open from 7-1:30 then they clean them and open them again at 3pm. We used them right at 3 so they had just been cleaned and were excellent.

The bathrooms in the camping loops were also very clean.

OK plan ahead for showers!!!!

The showers at ALL location cept for Old Faithful and Mammoth Hot Springs are run by electricity so if there is heavy winds you can count on an electrical outage which means no shower.

 

[slcfj62]

Went many years ago on my honeymoon in mid September and stayed in one of the un-insulated little cabins. Well the electric wall heater couldn't keep up with the cold, and we had a chilly night to be sure. Not such a bad thing on a honeymoon, but would be a drag if you have kids. Plan on very chilly nights and cool days. Also, I think the Park starts shutting down after Labor Day.

And one thing you will not want to miss is the Old Faithful Inn. It looks unimpressive from the outside, but prepare to be amazed when you walk inside. It is incredible.

I've been back to the Park since, but always in the summer. Been there for some incredible storms--lightning, hail, big time rain. I would not want to be tent camping in that kind of a storm if it turns to snow. You may want to seriously consider staying in one of the lodges/hotels in the Park if you are going in September.

 

[Trollhole]

I came from the south through Jackson Hole and went north. Took us 9 days to make it to Bozeman where we flew out.

So from Jackson Hole.

You have to see this. If you are a Clint Eastwood fan you will appreciate it more.

Then on to Jackson Lake.

The Dam was pretty cool.

And of couse the lake is awesome.

We stayed at Jackson Lake Lodge for a night. This was the view off our balcony.

Then North past the mountains and fields

On into the south entrance of Yellowstone. Need to stop and swim at Moose Falls if it isn't too cold by then. You can jump off from the top.

Then up to Lewis Falls. Great place to swim.

Then you can stop for gas at the Grant gass station on the South end of Lake yellowstone. Pretty good camping from what I recall. Then on to West Thumb Geyser Basin. Where it really starts to get crazy.

I heard of people staying at Yellowstone lake Lodge but we didn't go as it just was a little new for us. Plus my wife doesn't fish so renting a boat was out of the question.

Then on to Old Faithful Inn. Simply jaw dropping place.

The bar right in the middle of this picture (below) was were I was introduced to Fat Tire on draft. Sweet nectar of the gods.

And nothing beat having a pint of it sitting out on the bench in front of Old Faithful at night and being the only people around.

You need to spend at least 2 days in this area. As there is a lot to see.

Castle Geyser is worth the wait.

There are hundreds of Geysers all around

 

[Trollhole]

Seriously there are hundreds of these within walking distance.

Then on up to the Sapphire pool

Then up to the Grand Prismatic Spring

Then north on to Mammoth. We spent 3 days here and did our traveling out from here.

The springs are crazy up in this neck of the woods.

We then went east to Upper Falls

Lower Falls and Artist Point

Then Tower Falls (my only pic and it was miss focused)

Then another day we even farther east out of the park through Cooke City. If you follow that road it goes for freeking ever up the Bear Tooth Highway. But it was some of the best moments we had of the trip.

 

[Trollhole]

There was stuff like this everywhere.

Best part about the trip though was the wheeling.

We drove for miles over trails like this. Seriously no real trail just open land as far as you could see. Just plain awesome.

The pic below was taken about 4 miles up a trail. Seriously we were the only ones out there for miles.

Oh and you will see lots of this from the fire in the 90's

And you will see tons of this s***. Still cool. Will always be making a trip out there any chance I get.

 

[slcfj62]

Cool shot of the Buffalo. In one end and out the other! Nice pics, makes me want to go back.

 

[BirfMark]

Marshall you're killing me with the pictures. I've still got six weeks to wait before I get to see any of this first hand - I'd leave tomorrow if I could! Thanks for all the pointers though. Did you run down that Sawtooth trail? Rumor has it that it's a plain gravel road?

I didn't realize there was a bar at Old Faithful lodge - that's cool. I'm a little spoiled though; I bike past New Belgium brewery (where they make Fat Tire) every day on my way to work.

Thanks again everyone for the tips - much appreciated!

 

[Trollhole]

Maybe they have graveled it since but when we were there if you took a right at this sign and then went about half a mile and took another right the road would go forever. Wasn't really a road though. Lot's of rocks. Very cool place to go.

Best advice if your a picture guy is to get a monopod. One that has some legs. I use a Manfrotto. Great thing is you can set the timer on the camera and then hang it out over the springs. Makes for a better shot and one that not every person in the world has. Plus it's great for self photos. Mkae sure you get a ball or some other way to adjust it for the top.

Amazon.com: Manfrotto 682B Self Standing Monopod (Black): Camera & Photo

 

[Bogo]

Monopods are real handy for photographing in low light. Drape your arm over the lens/lens hood and aim and shoot. That should be good for 1 to 2 stops slower shutter speed. As for feet on a monopod, I basically find them to get in the way so I wouldn't bother with them. Manfrotto and ReallyRightStuff both make one axis only monopod heads. ReallyRightStuff's is expensive and heavy duty. It will handle the large tellephoto lenses. For wildlife photography I use a tripod with ball head. I also do the arm draping to help stabilize the camera.